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Who the hell thought a tamper proof screw should be used to hold the MAF sensor in place? I guess the dealer would be the only one to change a MAF out? Probably the same clown that designed the fuel cooler system. So I ordered a T20 tamper proof torx bit. Might arrive before the MAF sensor does.
Had to get the old one out before ordering a new one. I came across many different Bosch part numbers in my search. Now I know which one to order (and have done so). The one I ordered, initially, from Amazon was coming from Latvia. After no delivery in eight weeks, I told them to F-off.
Who the hell thought a tamper proof screw should be used to hold the MAF sensor in place? I guess the dealer would be the only one to change a MAF out? Probably the same clown that designed the fuel cooler system. So I ordered a T20 tamper proof torx bit. Might arrive before the MAF sensor does.
I also thought the use of the security screw was odd. I bought a security bit 'kit' from Harbor Fright about 20 years ago. I don't remember what I paid but it looks like it's currently selling for $6.79.
I also thought the use of the security screw was odd. I bought a security bit 'kit' from Harbor Fright about 20 years ago. I don't remember what I paid but it looks like it's currently selling for $6.79.
Perfect. I don't anticipate being near a Harbor Freight until I return to work. Whenever that happens to be. I ordered the one bit I need. It's $1.43 and $4.00 shipping.
I ran Speedy for a while, to check some signals. Cam deviation on bank #1 was as high as -4.98 degrees when just started, and slowly went down to about -4.4 degrees. The coolant was a lot higher than I would like, so I shut things off. There was no air being pushed through the radiators, so maybe next time (if I try again) I'll put a big fan in front of the car. The other option will be to pull data while driving. I'm not crazy about that idea, but it's an option. Need to understand why it is getting so hot. I think the fans are working and there shouldn't be much debris collected since the last time I cleaned out the radiators. Need to do some checking. The coolant level is well above where it used to normalize - I don't think that should be a factor. I didn't confirm the 160 degree thermostat functioned as it should, before installation. I suppose that's a possibility as well.
I've been trying to improve cooling on my 2000 c4 since I got it. In std form it's barely adequate, coolant above boiling seams to be 'normal'. This helped a lot but still not enough if you drive hard in warm weather: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...adiator-2.html
I've been trying to improve cooling on my 2000 c4 since I got it. In std form it's barely adequate, coolant above boiling seams to be 'normal'. This helped a lot but still not enough if you drive hard in warm weather: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...adiator-2.html
stupid question, but have you checked to make sure your coolant cap or bleeder are not leaking pressure? Do you know if your cooling system is building the proper pressure when hot?
I saw in your thread you replaced the rads and put in a low temp thermostat, did you by chance look at your water pump impellers?
In my experience this can be caused by one of the vent / regeneration valves being bad in the evaporative emissions system, as you suspected. One of the valves is behind the RF tire on top of the carbon canister. https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...Vent_Valve.htm
Back to this: Thanks for the tip, Kris. I messed around with it a little today when I heard the beer bottle whistle again. I removed the fuel fill cap and nothing changed. There is a small port at the front of the fuel door opening. Plugging that hole stopped the sound. Seems like a pretty good indicator it's the vent valve.
Back to this: Thanks for the tip, Kris. I messed around with it a little today when I heard the beer bottle whistle again. I removed the fuel fill cap and nothing changed. There is a small port at the front of the fuel door opening. Plugging that hole stopped the sound. Seems like a pretty good indicator it's the vent valve.
Sounds like that's the culprit! When you go to replace the valve, blow out the vent line with some air as dirt and spiders can sometimes build up in that line.
Where did you get your low temp thermostat? I remember Jake giving some advice on those awhile back. Said some of them are total crap and are worse than the original 180 degree stat. They were tested and found to be way out of a normal acceptable range. I think the low temp thermostats from LN Engineering are certified (or at least checked I think). Just guessing....
Where did you get your low temp thermostat? I remember Jake giving some advice on those awhile back. Said some of them are total crap and are worse than the original 180 degree stat. They were tested and found to be way out of a normal acceptable range. I think the low temp thermostats from LN Engineering are certified (or at least checked I think). Just guessing....
stupid question, but have you checked to make sure your coolant cap or bleeder are not leaking pressure? Do you know if your cooling system is building the proper pressure when hot?
I saw in your thread you replaced the rads and put in a low temp thermostat, did you by chance look at your water pump impellers?
Yes, the cap i brand new, latest rev, and bleeder seams tight. I have not checked pressure with any instrument, what is the std procedure to do this?. Water pump was changed 10k miles ago and have no excess play...haven't check it but the odds of it being bad is low. Next winter I will changed the coolant, check the water pump and maybe install the center radiator if I don't find any other issues. Do note that my drives are in hot weather (27c) and uphill/downhilll a lot of the time, basically hill climb so it really loads the engine without high speeds.
06-11-2020, 07:57 AM
