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Did a little review of the recommendations for breaking-in an RND engine. Got Durametric going on my computer. But before that, I did a quick check to see what reading the oil level sensor was giving. Nothing. It blinked after showing no oil. Oh well. I know it has oil.
Cranked over the engine and let it run for a second at a time until pressure built. Let it run for about 25 minutes, trying to stay around 1500 rpm. A lot of coolant was/is still in the bank #2 exhaust. The smoke did dissipate after a while - but still needs more time to burn off. I ended up cutting the run short because there was a P/S fluid leak! DOH! Good thing I have the reference material from Yaz. Maybe I can do it right this time...
Found two little spots of coolant on the floor too. The drain plug was weeping. I tightened that up. I can't explain the other tiny puddle, yet.
It's a good feeling. There's still a few little things to fix before going again. But it's a BIG relief.
It's great to have this community for support. There's not just encouragement but, real hard information. I leaned heavily on a lot of you guys.
I ended up pulling the throttle body out. While I was monitoring things with Durametric, I noted that oil temp was about 20 C (after warm). That's pretty good confirmation there was an issue with the connection at the sender.
As suspected, the connector was not connected. I must have dislodged it, as in snapped it off, while wrestling with the A/C compressor. Hope the silicone sealer keeps it in place.
Congrats Scott. Loved your Frankenstein vid! Glad it's going well, with only minor issues cropping up. It's been a page-turner for me following your build. Can't wait to hear about your first road trest.
We're still not out of the woods yet. I fixed a few things today and also encountered other issues. First thing was the fact that I still needed add an additional 1.5 qts. of oil to get to the half-full mark. Fortunately there was no high rpm or cornering involved during the first trial run. So putting the connector back on the sender, did actually help.
Early in the first warm-up for today.
Followed the P/S line installation procedure that Yaz posted here. Thanks, pal. No leaks from that. But I did find the unknown coolant leak. It seems I didn't engage the hose clamp in the proper place on the console pipe. And no, it wasn't where the dirty imprint is...
So I've got concerns about some of the readings I'm seeing in the data. Yesterday, I saw 0.09 cam deviation on bank #1 and 0.00 on bank #2. You could say, I was quite pleased with those numbers. Today was different. Not nearly so good.
Then I was monitoring cat temperature. I saw 450 C yesterday. But that was at steady engine speed. Today I did a few gradual sweeps up to 5000 rpm. When the cat rapidly approached and then went over 500 C, I brought things down for a few minutes and then shut-off.
Hopefully this is not excessively hot. If it is, I would suspect over-fueling, or residual coolant contamination. The bank #2 cat was a bit warmer than bank #1, as checked with an IR thermometer.
Was there any special process to initially start the fresh engine? I know FSI has mentioned that you don't just crank it over and fire it up but I never got the details on the proper process itself. Is the process to just turn it over a few times to build up the oil pressure without any real load like what you implied you did? It's not like a SBC or SBF where you can remove the distributor and turn the oil shaft to prime the pump and system. How do they fire them up on the production line to begin with?
Was there any special process to initially start the fresh engine? I know FSI has mentioned that you don't just crank it over and fire it up but I never got the details on the proper process itself. Is the process to just turn it over a few times to build up the oil pressure without any real load like what you implied you did? It's not like a SBC or SBF where you can remove the distributor and turn the oil shaft to prime the pump and system. How do they fire them up on the production line to begin with?
You can either use the start-stop method Jake recommends as outlined in the RND procedures he created for SSF Auto Parts or you can use a pre-oiler like the one that Tony Callas (Callas Rennsport) created:
Then I was monitoring cat temperature. I saw 450 C yesterday. But that was at steady engine speed. Today I did a few gradual sweeps up to 5000 rpm. When the cat rapidly approached and then went over 500 C, I brought things down for a few minutes and then shut-off.
Hopefully this is not excessively hot. If it is, I would suspect over-fueling, or residual coolant contamination. The bank #2 cat was a bit warmer than bank #1, as checked with an IR thermometer.
I believe normal catalytic converter operating temps for most cars are 650 to 900C (1200-1600F)
Also found this...Shows some diagnostic conditions for a 996 catalytic converter code. Note the temps....
P0420
Catalytic conversion
K NOTE The catalytic converter monitor compares the amplitude of the oxygen sensor behind the catalytic converter with the amplitude of a computed limit catalytic converter during defined air gulping and enrichment phases. The amplitudes allow conclusions to be drawn about the ability of the catalytic converter to store oxygen. Diagnostic conditions I Engine start temperature > -15°C (5 °F) I Catalytic converter temperature 385 .... 635°C (725-1175 °F) I Loading of activated charcoal filter < 8 I Oxygen sensing in front of catalytic converter active I Oxygen sensors behind catalytic converter ready for operation I 50 seconds (cumulative) within following load/rpm range I Engine speed 1280 .... 2880 rpm I Engine load (relative filling) 22 .... 41% I No fault oxygen sensors, tank vent, secondary-air pump relay, secondary-air valve relay, throttle adjusting unit, mass air flow sensor, no misfire. E The diagnostic conditions can also be established using the PIWIS Tester via the short test "Catalytic conversion". It is not necessary to have the vehicle in motion for this. Possible fault causes J Oxygen sensors in front of and behind catalytic converter swapped (position in exhaust assembly) J Valve lift error J Aged oxygen sensor behind catalytic converter J Catalytic converter faulty (pre-catalytic conversion rate too low)
I believe normal catalytic converter operating temps for most cars are 650 to 900C (1200-1600F)
Bill - that's good information. Clearly 500 C is not even close to being an issue. In the other note, the monitor is good information as well.
I'm also worried about the -3.5 degree of cam deviation that was recorded on bank #1. It was almost zero on the first day. That will need close scrutiny.
The last two days have been dreary. We've gotten probably 2" of rain, if not more. It's put a damper on my activities. It has certainly discouraged me from going for a drive.
Hey Scott,
How's the water level up there? What with bustin' dams and crazy rain, are you considering running Speedy as an U-boat. I know your not up where the floods are but I hope none of you friends or family are in harm's way up there.
Take care, buddy.
05-15-2020, 07:24 PM
