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What did you do to your 996 today?

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Old 04-07-2023, 08:33 PM
  #8716  
ArcticOne
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You won't be too far away from me. Am in Freeport on Long Island, about an hour ish from Deep Brook.

Looks like your road trip will be well timed as I think the weather forecasts are not showing any more snow.

Its a good place to retire to as property values are generally lower than most other places in Canada. Then again its also got its fair share of problems with health care and a strong urban / rural divide.

jb
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Old 04-08-2023, 06:07 PM
  #8717  
VFRMike
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Default HVAC foam, round 2

After successfully completing the heater/evaporator door hack last week - going in through the heater core, I tackled the other one today. I pulled the radio and related trim, then cut open the HVAC box as described in numerous tutorials. I also installed a new pop-out cup holder assembly ($$$) while I had everything apart. Managed not to break anything.
Celebrated my accomplishment by washing my car afterwards.
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Old 04-08-2023, 11:37 PM
  #8718  
DDR MFS
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I’m the bitch whiner on the forum.

Just paid our indie to literally hand loosen my oil pressure sensor switch after three attempts to get it off to include power tools, a lift, customer tools. And we had an oil leak on the way to the shop and… upon arrival, it came right off.

So for my car, we are doing the radiators in two weeks, and I am going to attempt repairs on the passenger seat.

But I want to go aftermarket manual seats with the Recaro Sport GTs.
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Old 04-09-2023, 10:37 AM
  #8719  
wdb
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Originally Posted by DDR MFS
Just paid our indie to literally hand loosen my oil pressure sensor switch after three attempts to get it off to include power tools, a lift, customer tools. And we had an oil leak on the way to the shop and… upon arrival, it came right off.
D'oh! You have to cringe a little when that happens.
Old 04-09-2023, 01:08 PM
  #8720  
damage98MO
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Originally Posted by DDR MFS
I’m the bitch whiner on the forum.

Just paid our indie to literally hand loosen my oil pressure sensor switch after three attempts to get it off to include power tools, a lift, customer tools. And we had an oil leak on the way to the shop and… upon arrival, it came right off.

So for my car, we are doing the radiators in two weeks, and I am going to attempt repairs on the passenger seat.

But I want to go aftermarket manual seats with the Recaro Sport GTs.
Happened to me, or similar. Some asshat torqued the transmission fill bolt in so hard, I just couldn't remove it. It's not even supposed to be torque fit, the thing is on the top of the transmission and uses crush washers. Mucklers...ah well.
Old 04-09-2023, 01:22 PM
  #8721  
996C438
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This morning I installed some Rennline wheel studs and 15mm spacers . I used red loctite and torqued to 30 ft lbs per the instructions .
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Old 04-09-2023, 04:48 PM
  #8722  
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Wheel stud conversion this morning.
Old 04-09-2023, 08:46 PM
  #8723  
damage98MO
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Originally Posted by 996C438
This morning I installed some Rennline wheel studs and 15mm spacers . I used red loctite and torqued to 30 ft lbs per the instructions .
What did you torque to 30lb? Porsche spec is 96ft/lb for wheel lugs. I have spacers, many of us do I bet, and they don't bolt on, are rennline different?
Old 04-09-2023, 08:49 PM
  #8724  
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Originally Posted by damage98MO
What did you torque to 30lb? Porsche spec is 96ft/lb for wheel lugs. I have spacers, many of us do I bet, and they don't bolt on, are rennline different?
I think he means he torqued the studs to 30 ft lbs...
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Old 04-09-2023, 08:52 PM
  #8725  
damage98MO
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Originally Posted by sasilverbullet
I think he means he torqued the studs to 30 ft lbs...
Oh, yes that's it. And explains the loctite... 🙏
Old 04-09-2023, 09:03 PM
  #8726  
996C438
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Originally Posted by sasilverbullet
I think he means he torqued the studs to 30 ft lbs...
I thought that's what I said ? Yes the wheel studs were torqued to 30 ft lbs .
Old 04-09-2023, 10:40 PM
  #8727  
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Replaced my 21 year old engine mounts on my 02 4S that were VERY loose and cracked with PRG Products ones and like many of you here noticed the difference in driving feel. They also brought the exhaust tips back up to proper height. Tarett trans bushings next.
Old 04-10-2023, 12:05 PM
  #8728  
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Originally Posted by Chris(MA)
Don't have any photos as my hands were all greasy, but I figured how to refurbish power window motor assemblies as mine died and I decided to risk a used ebay motor (that I could refurb it, I'll attach a stock photo). Here's a basic outline:
  1. With the motor assembly off, remove the 5? torx screws for the metal/rubber seal cover that seals around the output shaft
  2. Remove the C clip on top of the shaft, don't lost it!
  3. Slide the plastic splined drive gear off, note it has a bottom seal, don't lose it
  4. Remove the rubber cush drive, examine it for damage and the 3 vanes that drive it, if they are damaged the unit is kaput
  5. If ok, remove the inner plastic drive gear, note it has a thin metal washer at the bottom don't lose it
  6. On the side of the housing is the main connector, it is in a different plastic housing held on by 4 torx screws, remove them then pull the housing free, it has resistance
  7. Unscrew the 4 torx screws that hold the steel motor casing on
  8. Pull the motor out
  9. Pull the rotor out of the motor casing with the plastic
  10. Clean it all, I used electric contact cleaner, it will be full of black brush debris
  11. Slide the brush housing slightly off the copper rotor, note it doesn't come completely off
  12. Use toothpicks or other thin tools and dig out the impacted graphite brush material that shorts the motor over time (and kills it) between the copper
  13. With all the debris removed between the copper contacts, give it another wash in contact cleaner
  14. Use a toothpick to spring back the brushes, allowing the housing to fit back where it was
  15. Make sure the inside of the steel casing is clean (should be from step 10)
  16. Drop 1 drop of oil on the bronze bushing at the base of the steel casing to lubricate it
  17. Clean the plastic housing where the motor goes into, using contact cleaner, its full of black brush material
  18. Put a drop of oil on the bronze bushing in the plastic housing, where the motor shaft goes through
  19. Insert the motor back into the plastic housing
  20. Tighten the 4 torx screws to fit it
  21. Insert the connector plastic part, it should be aligned via the PCB and casing
  22. Tighten the 4 torx screws to mount it in place
  23. Grease the bottom of the main drive shaft
  24. Grease the outside of the gear
  25. Insert the gear, don't forget to check the washer
  26. Insert the cush drive
  27. Grease the steel shaft
  28. Slide on the main spline plastic gear, double check the seal is in place
  29. Add grease to the stop of the shaft
  30. Snap on the C clip
  31. Put the seal/steel side part on, make sure to grease the inside of the seal first
  32. Put the torx screws back
  33. Wipe the outside
Go drink a beer, you saved $600-1000 vs buying a new window motor even if you have the door open to fix something else and your motor is 20 years old its still going to probably fail. This can all be done in 20 mins so worth doing
Thanks for sharing. It might be worthwhile to cut & paste this into a new thread with a title about refurbishing the power window motor so it will be easy to find. There's some great stuff in this "What did you do to your 996 today?" thread, but with nearly 9,000 posts, it's almost impossible to find this kind of stuff after a few weeks after a bunch of new posts have come in.
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Old 04-10-2023, 12:33 PM
  #8729  
c didy
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Originally Posted by peterp
Thanks for sharing. It might be worthwhile to cut & paste this into a new thread with a title about refurbishing the power window motor so it will be easy to find. There's some great stuff in this "What did you do to your 996 today?" thread, but with nearly 9,000 posts, it's almost impossible to find this kind of stuff...

I agree completely. There are a lot of great posts embedded in this thread that unfortunately get lost in all the fluff.
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Old 04-10-2023, 06:12 PM
  #8730  
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Originally Posted by 996C438
I thought that's what I said ? Yes the wheel studs were torqued to 30 ft lbs .
Lug bolts are torqued to 92 or 96 ft lbs. Studs are torqued to 30lbs with loctite. The lug nuts are then torqued to 92 or 96 ft lbs (like the lug bolts)…


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