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This might be a useless suggestion, but I wonder if you were to contact Porsche Classic Italy if they would assist with technical advice on this topic (and others)?
Restoring and rebuilding older cars is, after all, their business.
This might be a useless suggestion, but I wonder if you were to contact Porsche Classic Italy if they would assist with technical advice on this topic (and others)?
Restoring and rebuilding older cars is, after all, their business.
Normally you would be right, but I think I'll contact the official Porsche Dealer, only if I really can't do without it.
And I souldn't say anything else.
But...
there is way of saying "the whole world is country"
Then there is another: "country you go, custom you find"
I was able to see that German diesel and petrol fuel are much better than those refined and sold in Italy.
Yet the specifications are the same identical, the European ones (looong sad smile).
At least they should, and the engine, it doesn't mind, when you cross the Italian border and enter Germany, you fill up and the car begins to consume less and go more...wow, maybe she is happy to be back where she was produced (I was there with a BMW and a Mercedes, both were veeery happy, I must assume).
Here (in Italy) I think this happens in any sector (corruption at the highest levels, controllers that are curropted, and so on): in every country no sector can avoid to deal with the culture, society, ways of doing, of thinking, of the people who make it live and interact with the public, customers.
What can I say: from this point of view I don't feel Italian at all. (and this is another reason why I am here instead of going to the local dealer, I don't want outside and negative interference).
Or maybe I am one of the few true italian still surviving...sort of "native italian"
You turn on the gas to make the coffee and the water takes a long time to boil ... why? Could it be that the gas is diluted with air?
But the meter turns, it doesn't see if it is air, gas, or a mix of the two ... someone is gaining more money and who is deputed to control it is in the baltic sea on premium vacation...
Then, going to the concrete: when you have proof that the local dealer gets the bodywork done outside, the work on the air-cooled engines done outside, when one knows that this is the way the carousel runs (I think about the F1 carousel meanwhile as well), why should you bring the car at the dealership?!
I think the commitment of a specialized workshop is worth much, much more, in which the owner of the shop takes responsibility for what he and his co-workers do and whose customers exist not because of a shiny badge on the roof, but because of the quality of the work produced accross years.
I hope I was clear: for me Porsche eventually acts as a spare parts supplier, perhaps.
I value work over bling bling, well done work, possibly with passion.
Last edited by nothingbutgt3; 08-14-2020 at 11:23 AM.
I've built a couple 993 motors and have seen a bunch more getting built, and have never heard of changing out the head studs. I've never heard of changing out head studs on any air-cooled 911 engine unless they're the old-school dilavar material, and those get changed not because they've been torqued but because they corrode and then break.
this is 100% true, but when you are building the engine, your problem is not the steel studs whilst 'building the engine'
the problem is later, steel studs on 911 hot or racing engines have to be retorqued every now and then.
Dilavar has the same thermal expansion rate as the engine case, a lot less prone to retorque .
new dilavar is protected from rust, and threaded the majority of the stud
this is 100% true, but when you are building the engine, your problem is not the steel studs whilst 'building the engine'
the problem is later, steel studs on 911 hot or racing engines have to be retorqued every now and then.
Dilavar has the same thermal expansion rate as the engine case, a lot less prone to retorque .
new dilavar is protected from rust, and threaded the majority of the stud
Again very interesting!
The more I read, the more I think not to change the studs.
But at the same time I am willing to know what would be the price for a global stud steel and also dilavar replacement, it is not clear how much one should invest for it.
The car will be tracked, but its not going to be a race car: already with the silver carrera I just make two or three rounds and then cool down engine and brakes one or two laps and then box.
I always had an eye on engine oil temperature, and exactly for this reason this rebuild will have a second oil cooler like the cup cars had.
this has to be an engine rebuild, not for racing, just something made the right way, with crankshaft balance, change of all internal components, something that an air cooled porsche mechanic should be able to do easily.
If later I will be able to go for a second engine, in that case, I think I will need stronger components, but let's see how much these studs cost.
Then what about the bolts and nuts for the connecting rods, they must be replaced as well?
ARP is a common replacement stud we use here. These are the case through bolts.
Some swear by them others feel they are unnecessary. But they sure are pretty.
A friend rebuilt a 1977 911 motor with those case-through bolts- if you know about the 77's you kind of have to do it this way. Overkill for 993 motors unless you're racing.
ARP is a common replacement stud we use here. These are the case through bolts.
Some swear by them others feel they are unnecessary. But they sure are pretty.
A friend rebuilt a 1977 (11 motor with those case-through bolts- if you know about the 77's you kind of have to do it this way. Overkill for 993 motors unless you're racing.
But yeah- i'd replace the bolts after being under water for so long. Shear one and you've got perpetual oil leak/burn issues....
FYI the ARP studs are going in my 993 N/A engine that I have replaced all the internals and will be twin turbo charging. I estimate 500 WHP on a mustang dyno depending on tune and could see much more if I decided to but I think 500 is a bit overkill already. The ARP actually ended up being less expensive than the factory parts.
ARP Studs small price for great piece of mind. Most builders here in the states would not take the chance for a problem down the road, the cost of a 2nd tear down will far exceed the price of ARP bolts. Not sure how does one know if a 2nd use had been done by a previous owner or not on a 20+ year old engine?
A great thread to follow, best of luck with whatever you decide. Your passion for this project is clear. Thanks for sharing your journey.
A great thread to follow, best of luck with whatever you decide. Your passion for this project is clear. Thanks for sharing your journey.
Thank You very much for your words.
Not sure how does one know if a 2nd use had been done by a previous owner or not on a 20+ year old engine?
99% sure, I could be 100% sure by calling the 2nd owner.
ARP Studs small price for great piece of mind. Most builders here in the states would not take the chance for a problem down the road, the cost of a 2nd tear down will far exceed the price of ARP bolts.
I was also thinking that there are other studs and bolts that are there to take the 2 engine halves together, pointed by yellow arrows in the picture, and I am also wondering if you think there are other structural studs to be changed together with the one pointed by the blue arrow and eventually with the ones pointed by the yellow arrow.
I think I need advices what and where to buy what, because on design911 the dilavar head studs set cost 50€ less than the ARP kit, then there are many different choices and there is also the studs kit for the engine case
But it isn't from ARP, is it important to change these as well pr not as juch as the head studs?
Then I noticed the original ones aren't fully threaded, what's the point of using threaded studs in a part of the engine where the studs are supposed to pass through a hole?
Last edited by nothingbutgt3; 08-17-2020 at 12:21 PM.
After a speech with a mechanic, he suggested to change the head studs with the new dilavar, and he told me it is not necessary to change the crank case studs.
Now I am figuring out what would be better for an engine rebuild to original specs, whether the ARP steel studs, or the dilavar that have same thermal expansion coefficient of the aluminum alloy of the engine itself.
the man at the grinder shop didnt tell me anything about the rods studs, should I replace them as well?
08-14-2020, 10:38 AM
