Triathlonkid

I agree with what minn said.
There are 2 other differences that favored S over GTS for me (I have a highly spec'd S so I can understand some of the sentiments above where there may be a smaller delta in price if you have a high cost S vs. if you build a bare bones S vs. GTS you may save $30k).

It was very hard to configure the leather interior on a GTS- you'd have to take out the GTS interior package, swap out the race tex steering wheel etc and lose out on the red GTS badging on the headrest. It is much more costly than going with the standard GTS interior which is around $4500 but I really don't want race tex especially with how poorly the steering wheel ages. Aesthetically I also like the exteriorly colored rear lip which the S sport design package provides but I couldn't get on the GTS (defaults to satin black), which to me looked more sporty. Subtle difference that people may never notice but I love details- the PDLS+ on GTS has a silver ring around it with blackened background vs. on the S it is all black which to me looked more aggressive. I also liked the red 11 tailights on the S which looked more sporty than the clear lights. Even if you strip the satin black trims on the GTS and add the high gloss, you still lose out on the red 11's, the sporty rear lip, and your side mirrors are all black instead of partial red/black (which I favored). All in all the S looked more sporty to me if you add all the sport design package, high gloss etc. This is probably just personal taste for each person.

Centerlock wheels are a net neutral for me. I think the high gloss carrera wheels look equally good compared to the center lock GTS so this one doesn't sway either direction, while I know some people may really not like centerlocks.

For a daily driver I presume the SPASM S will be slightly better than a GTS in terms of comfort, and that the sportier GTS power is marginal compared to a SPASM S. But probably not significant. I thought the GTS drove fine on LA roads with only a few moments feeling too stiff.

If I can configure the same exact features for the same price or < $5k difference I'd get the GTS b/c I don't see a harm in having extra HP/torque + larger brakes + potentially higher resale value (yes I buy for myself not others but if all being equal I'd take any free value), even if they make marginal differences.

But if there is an ADM on the GTS then I would easily favor the S.

chance6

It's amazing. Simply amazing. There are no soft skills anymore, or at least they are rare to witness in the wild. Polarized big time...and nobody available to try and work it out. Isolationism is on the rise and we may never recover.

I'm going to go cry in my Turbo S. lmao

Renntribe

I have a new GTS ordered with my personal options except for adding $3k in exclusive, PPF, ceramic coating and tint as ADM. I would've added some of the exclusive stuff and definitely the rest anyway.

So I've been doing what I usually do at night since I decided to buy my first P car: scouring the internet trying to satisfy my need to scratch this itch. After figuring out what mods I wanted and buying some, then reconfiguring my options about 92 times, I've come to the point of looking at CPO cars.

I've come across nicely optioned 2020 4S's selling $15-20k under sticker all with less than 10k miles. They have options to make it as close to the GTS as possible, albeit not everything I would've liked but close enough. Also, these cars have warranties to mid 2026. I could get one of these right now vs waiting until May.

Strictly from a sound fiscal perspective, which would be the smarter play (not buying one is not an option and pls no "if you gotta ask you cant afford it" type replies). I'm about 99% sure about the GTS. BUT there's something about getting a used one under MSRP that's comforting. The sticker prices were $170k +/- $5k and they're FS for $150k +/- $5k . I'm one of those who absolutely love getting a deal.

So here's the rub: Get it new and take the depreciation hit of X when I sell in four years or get one used and take the depreciation hit of X or Y. I'd think Y would be less of a hit. Right? $150k vs $185k? What should I do?

bluelines1974

I also like getting a deal, but I’ve come to the realization that, with cars, they make no financial sense anyway, so it’s best to get exactly what you want. I’d rather spend $200k on something built exactly how I want it than $160k on something that is 80% there. Nothing worse than spending a lot of money and wishing it had x or y option, colour, leather, etc.

Triathlonkid

I have a similar mindset as you, and I've thought about the same exact dilemma. Have someone else hold the bag carrying the depreciation while getting a 2020 model.

With all that said life is short. I would buy new.

Shogunade

What he said. It's a MY2020. Hit. You'll be second owner. Hit. Its a 4S. Hit. Those right there would probbably even out the depreciation with the MY2023 GTS.

Smirnoff67

That's why I always buy new. I've always thought that the engineers who design & build these cars know a whole lot more than I do; and if they say no going over 4,000 rpm's for the first 1,875 miles there's a reason for it. So rightly or wrongly, that's what I've always done-meaning, do what the Owners Manual says. I've had plenty of cars that have been major headaches so I do everything I can to avoid needing to repair shop....kind of like Doctors...lol. I know many people disagree with doing the break-in, and for those who flip cars every couple years I get it, but I keep my cars for forever and am OCD when it comes to taking care of my cars.

doug_999

The lawyers have about just as much say as the engineers in setting these break-in periods

ron4sc

When my C2S arrives, it will be my first, and hopefully last, 911. I also plan to keep it forever. All of our family cars have or had more than 225k to 250k miles on them. I'm going to pamper my new German member of our family when it arrives at our house for a very very long time.

Pivot

The lawyers would do word-smithing, but fortunately cannot deny warranty if the owner didn’t adhere to the recommendations. And this is possibly why some people decide to ignore it.

Pivot

I always spec, buy and treat my cars as if I would keep it forever. I conclude that majority of people flatly ignore engineering recommendations, so if I want a long term artifact, I must take care of it myself.

doug_999

see @srf409’s post above

Tupper

I think that life is too short to keep a car forever. I drive mine hard, and eventually trade in for something else. To waste 1800 miles on boring sub-4K RPM driving just ain’t something I’m ever going to go along with

Staffie Guy

I plan on doing about 500 miles before opening her up. I may also phase it in after 500 miles-ie don't exceed 5K til 750 miles, and so on. The earlier miles are much more important than the later miles during break in. Nothing magical happens at mile 1876.

Pivot

I have no chance to convince you, so let me just point out that modern car has approx 30’000 parts, many of them moving parts that need to be settled-in. The motor is only part of the power train, plus chassis, suspension, brakes, tires… all moving parts need to settle for optimal performance. Sadly, many people flip their cars, before they achieve optimal performance.