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Collectability IMO is only really a factor if you're buying a car near the bottom of its depreciation curve that no-one else appreciates, and it is likely to (financially) appreciate again in the near future - e.g. some people are talking about 986 base boxsters in this way for some reason. Or, if there is short-term supply-limited "flipper mania" like with modern GT cars a few years back. In 2050 a clean, low mile manual T might be a real find, but anyone buying a new T to park and hold for 20-30 years in the hope it will yield a profit is going to miss out on a lot of fun driving in the meantime!
The value of these cars in 20-30 years is a bit questionable as there is a fair chance it will be illegal to operate them or perhaps only on a private facility.
Okay, maybe just in the USA there are no manuals available.
What model/models is a stick available in the UK?
Hey man,
At the risk of conflicting with your obvious need to be right, wth does this have to do with a 991.2 Carrera T? Not to mention, do you even own one? Take it to PM please, and let us get back to obsessing over silly things we can neither control or foresee... k? thanks... bye.
Just got the car back from the dealer (for an AC hissing o-ring broken issue - covered under Warranty).
Getting the car ready! (Translated: I am trying to figure out where to mount the go-pro.. and the suction mount for the phone for Porsche Precision Track App.) ...The car is ready for my level of tracking. (This will be track day #3.)
What PSI should I start / cold with? I was thinking 31/37... and check tires once I get to the track and things start to warm up.
I say 30/35. That is what I do and gives just a bit of natural slide, with all the nannies off, in the rear once fully warm. That is for one up... I think if you start at 37 in the rear, once things get angry, you’ll lose a bit more traction/controllability.
At the risk of conflicting with your obvious need to be right, wth does this have to do with a 991.2 Carrera T? Not to mention, do you even own one? Take it to PM please, and let us get back to obsessing over silly things we can neither control or foresee... k? thanks... bye.
ß
At the risk of conflicting with your obvious need to be self-righteous. Maybe you missed it but we were discussing the future value of a manual transmission Carrera T. I see you posted over in the Taycan section. Do you own one of those? We do have control over who can drive a stick by offering to teach others. Thanks... bye.
What PSI should I start / cold with? I was thinking 31/37... and check tires once I get to the track and things start to warm up.
what is ambient temp? If under 50F those pressures are ok.
Since you are green driver, I would start 30/34 if ambient is above 50F and sunny (60 if cloudy) Then check immediately after exiting track, or use gauge in car, hot temp Pressure should be 34/36 max 35/38. So that your target range.
what is ambient temp? If under 50F those pressures are ok.
Since you are green driver, I would start 30/34 if ambient is above 50F and sunny (60 if cloudy) Then check immediately after exiting track, or use gauge in car, hot temp Pressure should be 34/36 max 35/38. So that your target range.
Thanks, Norge911! Forecast is for mostly cloudy - it should be 50 by the time I start driving to the track, and high of 71 degrees. Thanks for your help.
I say 30/35. That is what I do and gives just a bit of natural slide, with all the nannies off, in the rear once fully warm. That is for one up... I think if you start at 37 in the rear, once things get angry, you’ll lose a bit more traction/controllability.
Good luck! Wheels down!
ß
Agreed. Experienced this on COTA...once things get heated.
My first club track day at Oregon Raceway Park was a success! The T performed perfectly. Due to C19 we were limited to 25 drivers/spectators... so there were only 15 cars, so a really mellow day with plenty of space on the course. I’d just hang out and wait for the big dogs to come back in, and go out for an empty track. It is an extremely twisty with a lot of elevation change (i.e. roaring up over blind hills at WOT). Best lap time was 2:07... but most of the time I was just sticking to 3rd gear.
Here’s a single lap on YT. Pardon the drunken GoPro suction mount! Mounted on the smooth back of the LWBS... Seems I’ll need to get something more solid. More on that below.
I am researching a GoPro clamp approach that can wrap around and secure to holes the LWBS... this seems to be the best idea so far. Any other thoughts?
Last edited by BlackOptic; 05-25-2020 at 11:41 AM.
Has anyone done PPF then reapplied the decal over the PPF (or) gone over the decal leaving it in tact and applying?
TIA
yes. wrapped the car in Stek film (it has slightly better clarify vs expel from what we’ve seen) and then applied the vinyl decal over it.
the film has a ceramic coat - comes that way from stek and the decal still laid down nicely.
wanted the option to remove the decal without taking up the PPF. it “should” come
off without damaging the PPF, if removed correctly.
Has anyone done PPF then reapplied the decal over the PPF (or) gone over the decal leaving it in tact and applying?
TIA
i had limited PPF applied and with regard to the decal PPF was on rear fender and the front fender behind the wheel over decal and NOT the door. looked pretty good at the junction of decal/paint. installer did not recommend applying over the door since the decal is more complicated with the script, etc. he gave me option of removing and applying new decal over PPF. this was a black car. i had more of an issue over the lower rocker panel with the textured surface. film had trouble adhering to that but it was down low where you couldn’t see.
“if i had to do it over again“, which i actually did have a chance to do as I traded my black T for miami blue T, I don’t think i’m going to do PPF and will learn to live with “patina”
05-20-2020, 06:34 PM
