msdunkel

Does the car have to have Nav to take advantage of this? I just bought a '22 Spyder without nav or ACP but would like to enable AA and ACP (or even Nav for that matter) without voiding my warranty. Am I in the correct thread?

Westcoast

Did you read it, jumping in at the end won't tell you much! This thread is probably where you want to be: OEM Navigation Retrofit DIY - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums

As for the warranty, this process is done at your own risk, could void your warranty and is not covered by warranty.

msdunkel

I'm not looking to do the DIY. It appears Sima's service is warranty-safe, did I misread that?

edub

Any change after market is not warranty safe, that's just the reality.

Patching the radio using the AIO method mentioned in this thread is about as similar as downloading a software update on a computer and applying it. There may be more steps for the car than your home computer, but the fundamentals are the same.

Westcoast

I had some mods done by Sima, no problems and it worked as promised, is it "warranty safe", go to the dealership, ask the service manager if you get a guy on the internet to make modifications to your PCM and if it breaks, will Porsche fix it? I don't have to tell you what the answer will be.

And before anyone says the changes are undetectable, if your car did not come with OEM NAV, CP or AA and now the PCM shows this...

I always tell people who are ordering a Porsche, unless you have the skills, and are willing to risk voiding the warranty, order the car with the options you want or need, otherwise you could be on your own.

B Russ

I did both of my cars 971T and 991.2 neither have had any issues and both have been to the dealer since.

718socal

I will add to that, any mods can void your warranty. For example, if you run spacers or aftermarket brake pads, the dealer can void your warranty. Are they actively looking for mods? Probably not. BMW is flagging any cars with a tune with ISTA. Porsche is not doing that with PIWIS. They are storing your data for further review if needed.
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Westcoast

Did your cars go to the dealer for them to look at a problem specifically with the PCM(s)?

You could go to the dealer for an oil change, they won't be looking at the PCM...

msdunkel

I get it, I wasn't trying to save any $$ on an order, I just haven't found a dealer in 4 years to give me a Spyder allocation (although I didn't really try very hard in '20 and '21) so I have to take what I can find. A very nice build at a less terrible price than all the others popped up and for some reason the ding dong skipped ACP. Duh.

Westcoast

I get it, I know a few people a little late to the party and they are in the same position, not quite what you wanted but now, do you take a close facsimile or go without... You take the best example you find an enjoy it of course!

So back the CP, even if it was available I wouldn't have ordered it, I don't own a single Apple branded device, useless to me, perhaps the Spyder you found was spec'd by an Android loving ding dong like me?

No worries, the thread above that I provided a link to discusses how easy it is to add both CP and AA to your Spyder for free.

OEM Nav can take a little more effort, the reason is that a 2020 718 without factory NAV is likely missing 2 added things to fully implement factory NAV, a GPS antenna and the LVDS cable that runs between the PCM and the 4.5" TFT in the cluster (plus coding with a PIWIS). In rare circumstances the LVDS cable can't be added because some early cars did not ship with the corresponding female LVDS connector on the 4.5" TFT, in this case as long as the GPS antenna is connected you will still have OEM NAV but only on the PCM (no coding required).

socal_phil

Hi there, I have been using the JoyeAuto unit for about a year and wanted to provide some feedback and tips I learned in the process.

I have the following configuration:

2015 base 911 carrera US
7 speed
Bose system
No cameras
Pixel 6 Pro phone using android auto wireless

Issues:

Power. If you want the unit to stay powered up after the car turns off, then you can't use the normal switched power options available in the driver side fuse box. Alternatively, if you use the fulltime powered fuse locations, the unit stays on 100% of the time which creates other problems (battery drain and the phone may stay connected depending on car location vs. phone). The solution is to use a particular fuse location in the passenger side (right) footwell: D9. See attached picture. This means running a longer length of wire if you have the JoyeAuto box in the driver's (left hand) side, but well worth having the best of both worlds. Once in place, the unit will power up as soon as the car is unlocked and power down about 20-30 minutes after the key is pulled from the ignition.
I'm surprised this isn't mentioned by more people but maybe they just live with the loss of power when the engine is turned off when using the left hand fuse box options. Or maybe there's some other factor at play I missed. Please comment if you have a different experience.
Boot flakiness. The normal boot sequence when getting in the car is to hit the Navi button to engage the JoyeAuto system. It then auto detects the previous Android Auto connection and displays it on the screen to be selected. On some occasions the phone doesn't show up to be selected but it was still found by JoyeAuto (I don't know if this is a timeout issue or something else) which is evident from the Android button being highlighted in purple. In this case, you have to go into the setup menu, choose the bottom left most option (Smart Phone), Wireless AA, and the phone is in the list to be selected for boot. I have tried to skip all this and simply select the purple Android button but then it gets hung up requiring me to fiddle with my phone (usually going airplane mode and back restores things). Since the unit stays on even with power off, you'd have to resort to more manual power off options like accessing the JoyeAuto unit or the fuse box, neither option of which is pretty. Lesson there is not to attempt booting without actually selecting the connected phone. The little green "link" icon can also cause this problem if the phone hasn't been selected already.
If someone can improve upon this experience please share.

BT connection and Mic issues. The provided Mic is weak and will create sound quality issues for phone calls. Adjusting it to help phone calls can have a detrimental effect on Hey Google. The workaround, which others have also mentioned, is to use the built-in car PCM for phone calls. That means the phone will have two simultaneous connections when in the car: JoyeAuto and PCM. The trick is to use the latter for phone calls which isn't always the default (I'm not sure how android prioritizes and/or saves them). And you can't disable or forget JoyeAuto from the phone because Android Auto seems to reinstate it, if only partially (forgetting should wipe it out but it sticks around zombie like). For a time, I was dynamically entering the IDCore setup menu and disabling BT from there which worked, but I'd have to re-establish the BT connection manually (like start of day) on car start each time which sucked. I since learned Android offers an option to select which BT connection is active for a call in the BT menu. But that only presents itself during the call, so if you think the JoyeAuto BT connection is active you have to quickly go into the phone menu and select PCM as the "active connection". The Android Auto touch screen has the option to select the speakerphone during the call which might prove helpful as a quick save while fiddling on the phone...
The good news is I don't find myself doing this very often, so the phone seems to try to re-use the last connection if it's there. If anyone has a more reliable way to keep PCM as the primary phone connection let us know.

Sound quality. There's been a lot of discussion on this topic and of course it's difficult to describe other than maybe poor sound, tinny, distorted, etc. And this all depends on the type of music being played. Some tips here include the use of the JoyeAuto EQ menu dynamically (while the music is being played). You can actually start playing music and exit the AA screen (select IDCore or Exit from the list of programs) which gets you back to the boot menu where Setup can be chosen. From there just go into the EQ menu, choose the settings icon to "tab over" into the EQ screen and select accordingly (while the music is playing). This should help tune the system more quickly by going in and out of the AA screen to choose different music and coming back into EQ settings. Note, that little green link icon is now your friend to get you back into the main AA screen.
Personally, I got bass distortion when enabling the loudness option and also had to lower the 60/150hz settings but maybe that's my music again, or just taste. I have attached pictures with my settings fwiw. YMMV, but I would like to hear back from others on their precise EQ settings (including loudness/subwoofer) just the same. There may be something optimal out there.

Built-in Mic. Once PCM is setup for phone calls, the Mic settings can be optimized around clearly picking up voice command instructions (vs. compromising for echo, etc.). A higher sensitivity level works better but I must say it's still not great in my car. A speed with the background road noise the voice command is garbled and I get poor results. This could be that my tires are louder and need replacing or Mic placement (perpendicular off the steering column just out of eye level sight) so again YMMV.
If anyone has any tips to share here, let us know.

Summary.
Overall, I am personally very happy with the value the JoyeAuto system provides but I must admit I would not be able to recommend this to people who are not tech savvy since it requires a bit of know-how to workaround the flakiness when it presents (which is about 15% of the time). The workarounds are not onerous, but to somebody who expects things to just work, it's a deal killer. If we can improve on my experiences above maybe the system can get more stable and be fit for the masses.

JMark2

Anyone knows if this also possible with PCM3.1?

socal_phil

My review above for JoyeAuto was actually for PCM3.1, model number WJPO-1. They do appear to carry similar models for CDR-31, PCM3.0, and PCM4.0, so they have the bases covered.

Westcoast

For PCM 3.1 you best bet is one of the internal/external options as mentioned above, I personally installed the Isudar board into our 2016 Macan and it is working very well.

Not that this requires that you remove the PCM from the vehicle, open it up and install board, certainly not for everyone!

Isudar Carplay for PCM 3.1 - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums

porsche4joey

There's a few things with this so called mod.

First, xirus XM gets deactivated, leaving a fault code during diagnostic.
second, firmware pcm fault code does not get cleared despite mib fix, and attempting to clear on diagnostic tool. It shows it as an active fault.

Any ideas how to clear the firmware fault.

Thanks.