Orthojoe's track build journal
03-01-2015, 03:57 PM
#556
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Yes, we are talking 21 heat cycles for the cup2s that came with the car.
03-01-2015, 05:57 PM
#557
Three Wheelin'
Brake pad change was a bit of failure today. A couple notes, if any of you have suggestions:
1) the suspension is so stiff, that when I jacked one side, then when to the first corner of the other side, it lifted the car off the stand on the other side, which bent the pin on the top of the jackpoint stand. It scared me, so I didn’t attempt to jack the whole car up. I think the best bet might be to do the rear then front, but I’m not sure. Suggestions?
2) What prevented the brake pad change was getting the brake pad sensor off the pad. There is no visibility, and I couldn't figure out how to get the pad sensor off easily. Did you detach the clip on the caliper, or try to get more space by detaching the things holding the caliper in place?
I was also going to install the caliper studs, but I gave up, and I'm going to ask my shop to do it.
As a side note, I actually found the CL to be no trouble at all. That was a pleasant surprise.
1) the suspension is so stiff, that when I jacked one side, then when to the first corner of the other side, it lifted the car off the stand on the other side, which bent the pin on the top of the jackpoint stand. It scared me, so I didn’t attempt to jack the whole car up. I think the best bet might be to do the rear then front, but I’m not sure. Suggestions?
2) What prevented the brake pad change was getting the brake pad sensor off the pad. There is no visibility, and I couldn't figure out how to get the pad sensor off easily. Did you detach the clip on the caliper, or try to get more space by detaching the things holding the caliper in place?
I was also going to install the caliper studs, but I gave up, and I'm going to ask my shop to do it.
As a side note, I actually found the CL to be no trouble at all. That was a pleasant surprise.
03-01-2015, 06:02 PM
#558
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Brake pad change was a bit of failure today. A couple notes, if any of you have suggestions:
1) the suspension is so stiff, that when I jacked one side, then when to the first corner of the other side, it lifted the car off the stand on the other side, which bent the pin on the top of the jackpoint stand. It scared me, so I didn’t attempt to jack the whole car up. I think the best bet might be to do the rear then front, but I’m not sure. Suggestions?
2) What prevented the brake pad change was getting the brake pad sensor off the pad. There is no visibility, and I couldn't figure out how to get the pad sensor off easily. Did you detach the clip on the caliper, or try to get more space by detaching the things holding the caliper in place?
I was also going to install the caliper studs, but I gave up, and I'm going to ask my shop to do it.
As a side note, I actually found the CL to be no trouble at all. That was a pleasant surprise.
1) the suspension is so stiff, that when I jacked one side, then when to the first corner of the other side, it lifted the car off the stand on the other side, which bent the pin on the top of the jackpoint stand. It scared me, so I didn’t attempt to jack the whole car up. I think the best bet might be to do the rear then front, but I’m not sure. Suggestions?
2) What prevented the brake pad change was getting the brake pad sensor off the pad. There is no visibility, and I couldn't figure out how to get the pad sensor off easily. Did you detach the clip on the caliper, or try to get more space by detaching the things holding the caliper in place?
I was also going to install the caliper studs, but I gave up, and I'm going to ask my shop to do it.
As a side note, I actually found the CL to be no trouble at all. That was a pleasant surprise.
As far as removing the brake pad sensor, I used a needle nose plier. You need to grab the small metal 'clip' that you see at the wire junction, and then pull. The pad sensors come out easier that way. Then I just zip tied them out of the way so I never have to deal with them again.
03-01-2015, 06:12 PM
#560
Three Wheelin'
Rolling jacks I use on my lift jack up both the passenger and driver side together, so I can't help you much from that standpoint.
As far as removing the brake pad sensor, I used a needle nose plier. You need to grab the small metal 'clip' that you see at the wire junction, and then pull. The pad sensors come out easier that way. Then I just zip tied them out of the way so I never have to deal with them again.
As far as removing the brake pad sensor, I used a needle nose plier. You need to grab the small metal 'clip' that you see at the wire junction, and then pull. The pad sensors come out easier that way. Then I just zip tied them out of the way so I never have to deal with them again.
03-01-2015, 06:31 PM
#561
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
03-01-2015, 09:54 PM
#563
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My rear tires are going to last 45+ heat cycles before thread is gone. When Joe adjusts camber, his are going to last over 40 cycles too (the photo of 20+ cycle tire has well over half thread left on most of the tire). If they heat cycle out in 20-25, that's a waste.
03-01-2015, 10:14 PM
#564
03-01-2015, 10:22 PM
#565
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Right side is indeed the outside
03-02-2015, 11:34 AM
#567
Rennlist Member
The tire in 564 shows graining on the right and on the leftmost rib. The first rib from the right looks like the onset of blisters. You can get graining if you push the tire too hard before it gets up to temperature.
03-02-2015, 11:53 AM
#568
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Hmmm... That could be a possibility. I usually open things up as soon as I feel like the tires are gripping, which is usually after the first lap. After 6 laps the tires start to lose grip. I take it easy for a lap, then start up again. Are people waiting longer? It would take several laps to get the tire pressures up to the set targets.
03-02-2015, 12:19 PM
#569
Rennlist Member
I took sets of new heat cycled Hoosiers to a club race. Went out the first session and pushed early. Came back in the pits and jacked the car up to look at the brake pads. Noticed the graining pattern and took the tire to the Hoosier tent. The tech told me not to push the tires the first lap. Give them a bit more time to come up to temperature/pressure. For the second set I spent almost 3 laps getting the tires up to pressure. Came in at the end of the session and the tires looked much better.
So if you are at a DE this works fine. If it is a sprint race your competitors will thank you for your conservation efforts.
So if you are at a DE this works fine. If it is a sprint race your competitors will thank you for your conservation efforts.
03-02-2015, 12:33 PM
#570
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Join Date: May 2012
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Hmmm... That could be a possibility. I usually open things up as soon as I feel like the tires are gripping, which is usually after the first lap. After 6 laps the tires start to lose grip. I take it easy for a lap, then start up again. Are people waiting longer? It would take several laps to get the tire pressures up to the set targets.
Keep in that not only do you want the tire itself come up to temp, but you also need to tire pressure to increase in order to help maintain the tire shape under load, otherwise the deformation of the tire can cause undesirable wear of the tire, uneven heating of the tire, etc. As an exaggeration, visualize thrashing a tire that's flopping around on the rim. I usually see about 10 psi increase in tire pressure in a session if going from fully cold to hot, so even 3 psi is only a modest increase.
In a non-racing situation, we can afford to be a little patient to help take care of our (expensive) tires.
Edit: I just read Alan C.'s posts. I agree!