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Orthojoe's track build journal

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Old 03-05-2015, 10:57 PM
  #586  
orthojoe
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Originally Posted by MayorAdamWest
Shims all around. So many shims. According to the shop, if I want to get to anything less than -3.2, cup car control arms are required. I see no reason to go small with the camber since the tires won't last more than 2-3 months anyway (4-6 track days)
See you next Friday!
Old 03-06-2015, 12:13 AM
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I'll see you there too
Old 03-09-2015, 05:30 PM
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I haven't adjusted my sway bars. With -3.2F/-2.5R, any suggestions? Is it something I can easily change at the track? I've never tried before.
Old 03-09-2015, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by MayorAdamWest
I haven't adjusted my sway bars. With -3.2F/-2.5R, any suggestions? Is it something I can easily change at the track? I've never tried before.
Ben took the car to sonoma this weekend and thought that there was too much corner exit oversteer with full soft up front, so I switched it back to the middle setting front and rear. Leave it be for now and then see what you prefer.

Right now we are at zero toe and -2.7 camber up front and 4mm total toe in and -2.9 camber rear with swaybar settings in the middle front and rear for Friday.

You can change on track, but it's not ideal because you are supposed to tighten the bolt when the car is under load, which you can't do unless the car is on a lift.
Old 03-10-2015, 11:20 PM
  #590  
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Quick update on brakes. Stock rotors, PFC 11 pads on all 4 corners.

5 track days. 3 at Thill and 2 at Sonoma. 650 track miles.

The front rotors are showing a touch of cracking, but nothing to blink at. The pads are about 1/2 way worn maybe?




The rears look barely worn still




So far the standard iron rotors are holding up like a champ!
Old 03-11-2015, 01:10 AM
  #591  
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Rotors look great!
Old 03-11-2015, 03:10 AM
  #592  
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Great, thanks for sharing the pics. Did you run the stock pads on track at all for comparison?
Old 03-11-2015, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by orthojoe
Quick update on brakes. Stock rotors, PFC 11 pads on all 4 corners.

5 track days. 3 at Thill and 2 at Sonoma. 650 track miles.

The front rotors are showing a touch of cracking, but nothing to blink at. The pads are about 1/2 way worn maybe?
Thanks for the good info. Do you expect to change front pads soon (i.e. not let them get much less than 1/2 thickness)?
Old 03-11-2015, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Mech33
Great, thanks for sharing the pics. Did you run the stock pads on track at all for comparison?
Nope. Saved them for when/if I sell the car. My understanding is that the OEM pads work very well, but dust like crazy and don't last at all.

Originally Posted by GrantG
Thanks for the good info. Do you expect to change front pads soon (i.e. not let them get much less than 1/2 thickness)?
I plan to run them all of the way to the backing plate if I can since these aren't PCCB rotors.
Old 03-11-2015, 01:25 PM
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Have any of you guys thought about cryogenic treatment of your steel rotors. They say this will eliminate cracking and make your rotors last a lot longer..
Old 03-11-2015, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by SmokinGTS
Have any of you guys thought about cryogenic treatment of your steel rotors. They say this will eliminate cracking and make your rotors last a lot longer..
fwiw, I've heard this about many things, and in every case that I've researched it, it's just people that run cryogenic machines/labs that want more business and had no measurable improvement.
Old 03-11-2015, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by orthojoe
I plan to run them all of the way to the backing plate if I can since these aren't PCCB rotors.
That'll be great if they continue to perform all the way to the end! Would save some $ for sure. Most brake systems are too thermally taxed to allow that...
Old 03-11-2015, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by orthojoe
Nope. Saved them for when/if I sell the car. My understanding is that the OEM pads work very well, but dust like crazy and don't last at all.



I plan to run them all of the way to the backing plate if I can since these aren't PCCB rotors.
I'm still paranoid that the dealer won't warranty the braking system with non-OEM pads. I had that happen on my Audi: they claimed excessive heat caused by non-OEM pads caused premature seal failure.
Old 03-11-2015, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Mech33
I'm still paranoid that the dealer won't warranty the braking system with non-OEM pads. I had that happen on my Audi: they claimed excessive heat caused by non-OEM pads caused premature seal failure.
This is impossible. The amount of heat is produced is basically mass multiplied by speed differential, and compounds used have no influence on how much heat is produced. But I do understand the dealer - it's possible to kill practically any brake set up with hard track use (e.g.,I've seen M3 brakes with lines looking like bubble gum after one day), so they're just looking for ways to get out of covering that when they see track use.
Old 03-11-2015, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by MaxLTV
This is impossible. The amount of heat is produced is basically mass multiplied by speed differential, and compounds used have no influence on how much heat is produced. But I do understand the dealer - it's possible to kill practically any brake set up with hard track use (e.g.,I've seen M3 brakes with lines looking like bubble gum after one day), so they're just looking for ways to get out of covering that when they see track use.
I don't think it's that simple though, since there's also the question of how heat is being transferred through the various components of the brake system, and my anecdotal experience is that pads affect that.


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