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A different approach to the emergency frunk release
I got my car a year ago, 2005 Boxster. A week later, the battery died and I learned how to open the frunk with the red 12V post in the fuse box. The battery was 5 years old, OK, new battery. A week later, it was dead. Had to use the emergency jump again. I was worried about having this happen away from home. I learned 2 things, first, it was the CDR-24 headhunt turning on the Bose amp at times, draining the battery. That took time to diagnose. Then too, I learned about the hidden Cable release on the frunk latch. Some reports said it was on the right, some on the left. I dug into it, removed the trim around the frunk opening, opened the carpet, removed the left headlight. Sure enuf, there was a small cable on the white solenoid-actuated cable, but it was cut in half under the left headlight. I cut it from the white cable.
Fast-forward to this week. Car is still in my garage, waiting for better weather, getting some maintenance, new front pads and rotors, new rear parking brake shoes, (a bitch to replace), flush the brake fluid.
I wanted to fix the emergency cable. I bought some SS cable and crimp lugs. I opened the front again, removed the trim, opened the carpet, removed the frunk latch. I saw there was another cable actuator at the bottom of the latch, that works in the opposing way the electric button/solenoid does. Hmmm. I removed the right headlight, removed the inner fender liner in front of the radiator. I fished some length of the SS cable from the latch into the wheel well, with the help of a bent coat hanger. Added the crimp to the end of the cable, attached is to the slot shown in the pic. Replaced the latch, aligned it, shut the hood. A quick tug on the cable, popped the hood latch. Success! I drilled a small hole in the top fender liner above the lip overlap, fished the end through, added the loop and crimp. Shut the hood again, pulled the loop. A good tug and it unlatch again. Buttoned up everything, replaced the inner fender liner, tested it again. Works great. I captured the loop end under the one screw. I can reach it without taking the wheel off, covered it with some HD duct tape. I’m satisfied.
My wife loves to ride in and drive our Boxster, but she complained about noise, which was a fair complaint. To remedy that and help the stereo, I've added some Siless damping to the doors, the engine covers and inside the rear wheel liners and its made a huge difference in my Boxster.
In a Cayman, where you're not getting convertible top wind noise, I bet it would really help. I did these areas out of a $50 roll and still have about half the roll left. I bought some application rollers for a few bucks and it really worked great.
I pulled the door cards and lined as much of it as I could.
This was a super cheap and easy to do mod that really changed the level of refinement in this car. I can still hear all the terrific music coming from behind my elbow, and I can probably hear it better without all the racket coming through the fender wells and doors.
Siless noise reduction foam. $50 or so from Amazon. It was half the price of Dynamat. I added maybe two pounds to my car, but tons of refinement and quiet. The stereo sounds way better and long trips are far less fatiguing. Passenger side door card. I lined as much as I could with the Siless stuff, cutting it to fit with scissors. I replaced the factory foam right with some that I bought on Amazon that included a solid plug I inserted behind the speaker. I also made sure not to impinge on the airbag chamber in any way. On the door panel, there's plenty of opportunity to add some insulation. I made sure that I had a solid base for the foam ring around the speaker to sit on the speaker. I replaced the blown 8" with some cheap JVCs and later replaced the factory 4" with some Pioneers. I also added a Kicker powered sub.
Had mounted, than installed, 2 Continentals on right side
Decided to go one- and two-more sizes wider, this time from 245s to 255s front, and from 275s to 295s on rear, both 35-series 19s.. Wheels were and still are each a halfinch wider at 8-1/2 and 10 inches.
Six Michelins will be for sale soon.
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Forgot to write that I replaced the right-rear 15mm spacer with a 7mm spacer.
Last edited by Jeffrey Behr; 04-16-2022 at 01:02 AM.
Well, Wednesday, not today.
Left home in Kansas City at 4am, headed over through Nashville and down to the Smokey mountains and drive the Cherohala skyway which is just south of tail of the Dragon, another amazing road! Then turned south to arrive in Atlanta in the evening. 950 miles in a day. 25mpg too!
My wife loves to ride in and drive our Boxster, but she complained about noise, which was a fair complaint. To remedy that and help the stereo, I've added some Siless damping to the doors, the engine covers and inside the rear wheel liners and its made a huge difference in my Boxster.
In a Cayman, where you're not getting convertible top wind noise, I bet it would really help. I did these areas out of a $50 roll and still have about half the roll left. I bought some application rollers for a few bucks and it really worked great.
I pulled the door cards and lined as much of it as I could.
This was a super cheap and easy to do mod that really changed the level of refinement in this car. I can still hear all the terrific music coming from behind my elbow, and I can probably hear it better without all the racket coming through the fender wells and doors.
Hmm, I've thought about doing something like this, the road noise is pretty loud on my Cayman S. If the exhaust were louder it wouldn't be as annoying, but with the stock exhaust being so subdued, I guess I just notice the road noise more.
Hmm, I've thought about doing something like this, the road noise is pretty loud on my Cayman S. If the exhaust were louder it wouldn't be as annoying, but with the stock exhaust being so subdued, I guess I just notice the road noise more.
How exactly did you do inside the wheel liners?
When I was doing the spark plugs, I had the wheels off, so it was easy to get the liners out. I put Siless on the backs of the liners themselves. When I have it on jack stands again, I’m going to do the fronts.
The spec tires are really sensitive to road surface, it seems. They just howl on pavement with a kind of rough finish.
When I was doing the spark plugs, I had the wheels off, so it was easy to get the liners out. I put Siless on the backs of the liners themselves. When I have it on jack stands again, I’m going to do the fronts.
The spec tires are really sensitive to road surface, it seems. They just howl on pavement with a kind of rough finish.
Doing this is how I know I’m old.
I've got a fabspeed exhaust on mine so its louder than the stock exhaust. Top down, it sounds fantastic. Top up, its too loud and takes away from the driving experience IMO. Not sure I want to pull the door panels off to do something like this, but it seems like doing this on the wheel liners would be pretty simple. And yes, saying that out loud makes me feel old too.
I've got a fabspeed exhaust on mine so its louder than the stock exhaust. Top down, it sounds fantastic. Top up, its too loud and takes away from the driving experience IMO. Not sure I want to pull the door panels off to do something like this, but it seems like doing this on the wheel liners would be pretty simple. And yes, saying that out loud makes me feel old too.
Easy fix. Only drive it with the top down That's what I do with mine and the PSE is always open and it's never too loud
I get it, having just turned 60 years old! When I bought the car and drove it from San Diego to Seattle, the road noise got old. I'd like to go on some trips in the car but my wife isn't that excited about that because of the noise. Anything to make it quieter without adding a bunch of weight would be great.
Thanks for your post and information, I just ordered the Siless (a chance to support a Ukranian company!) and an application roller.
On the window tint - how did you remove it? Heat gun, steam, or something else?
I will be doing the same soon. Any issues that I should anticipate?
Did you take off the door panels, etc., etc.
The tint on this car was old and bad quality. I used a razor blade (at least 15 pieces per each window, since they becoming dull pretty fast) and rag with a gas. Took 30-45mins for each window. Heat gun didn’t do much of a difference in my particular case because the film was dry and brittle (if this is a correct word), but it’s definitely worth to do it in the heat of the day, when the sun is burning.
04-14-2022, 01:50 PM
