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I bought the kit from Amazon and it worked perfectly - $21 for 14 different LEDs. I'd imagine you could buy this entire kit for less than the 2 bulbs you bought.
Strange they worked perfectly for me and the many who left positive reviews. Not everything needs to be excessively over-priced to work. It's literally an LED bulb, its not 2005 anymore and these work perfectly fine.
In my quest to add some variation to my all gray interior I have been adding some black trim pieces and yellow accents.
Replaced the standard white face of the Chrono timer with a yellow one from eBay.
Overall a pretty simple project and I love the splash of color on the dash.
I now have yellow belts, shift **** and timer. Just the right amount.
Strange they worked perfectly for me and the many who left positive reviews. Not everything needs to be excessively over-priced to work. It's literally an LED bulb, its not 2005 anymore and these work perfectly fine.
next time i take out my 2007 cayman 2.7l, i'll be testing out my noise-cancelling wireless bluetooth bose earbuds.
even some previous owner cut the cords to the bose optioned original stereo in the car and installed some expensive ($2000++) components (i.e. head unit, amp and sub-woofer) the excessive road/tire noise essentially, for me anyway, ruins the sound quality. so i figured i'd try some of noise-cancelling earbuds made by bose. so far i'm satisfied with them when in my old pickup truck.
anyone else? and ya, i know there are some legal issues...
In my quest to add some variation to my all gray interior I have been adding some black trim pieces and yellow accents.
Replaced the standard white face of the Chrono timer with a yellow one from eBay.
Overall a pretty simple project and I love the splash of color on the dash.
I now have yellow belts, shift **** and timer. Just the right amount.
might want to think about the yellow gauge face too. i put a red one on my guards red cayman. if you can tolerate non-oem parts on your car (the OEM ones are about 600 dollars or so), they can be had for 150-200 on ebay. the one i bought from china fit perfectly and because it's a non-wear item and covered by clear plastic, once it's in it'll stay looking good.
Had the alignment done after putting on Cayman R springs, rear swaybar and rear Cayman R shocks. 0.75 negative chamber on the front (could not get more than that on the left side) and 2 negative degrees at the rear.
Also put on 997 GT3 front brake cooling ducts – fit well on the LCAs.
Replaced possibly original (13 years old) Philips D2S bulbs with Philips Extreme Vision Gen2 XV2 bulbs... difference is very noticeable compared to the old worn out bulbs that got dimmer overtime.
i am about to get alignment after installing Cayman R springs and struts. Surprised at -0.75 on the front!! I thought you’d be close to -2 front and rear.
Originally Posted by Smudo
Had the alignment done after putting on Cayman R springs, rear swaybar and rear Cayman R shocks. 0.75 negative chamber on the front (could not get more than that on the left side) and 2 negative degrees at the rear.
Also put on 997 GT3 front brake cooling ducts – fit well on the LCAs.
i am about to get alignment after installing Cayman R springs and struts. Surprised at -0.75 on the front!! I thought you’d be close to -2 front and rear.
When you do yours, before you go in (or have the shop do it), raise the front, loosen the top hat nuts and push the hats as far inside as possible.....it'll help a little.
Doing mine initially, we loosened everything, pulled it toward negative camber and retightened and it was around -1.2 if I recall. Then did GT3 LCA's and got -2.5+.
I also was also hoping to have at least -1 degree or slightly more negative chamber in the front from what I read from other owners experience. The alignment shop did loosen the front top mount screws, but the car was not raised (not clear whether it would have helped in my case). It was possible to get more than -1 degree on the right side, but not on the left side, so in the end we left both sides -0.75 degrees (OEM Cayman R spec is -0.75 degrees +/- 0.25 degrees. Probably will used Powerflex LCA eccentric bushing inserts instead of going to GT3 LCAs, as they are quite pricy and this car is mainly for street, with occasional track day evens (probably max 2-3 per year). In the rear I could get more than -2 degrees but did not opt for that considering the front set-up. We see how it performs on the track and then make further changes, based on the results, if needed.
I purchased a NOS aluminum billet gas cap and made a tether from a bicycle brake cable. The cable already had a barrel on one end, so I used a knarp on the other end to keep the cable from pulling through. The gas cap is solid billet aluminum. I believe that these gas caps were last available for sale about a decade ago. The cable with a barrel and a knarp on opposite ends. I adjusted the cable length so that the gas cap won’t touch the car while resting on the fuel filler door hanger. I also used nylon washers at either end of the cable to prevent marring if the gas cap and gas cap tether anchor.
03-19-2022, 10:21 AM
