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Certainly a cool engine, but it's going to be awhile before any of those engines start becoming available in the used market for reasonable prices.
Search for engine code DAZA. There was one on eBay in Germany a few weeks back, was like $16k plus shipping. Would be very cool but very expensive, and the standard intake manifold will not fit in our cars. With port and DI there is a lot going on for that to be as straightforward a swap as we are undertaking. A bare block would be a great starting point, but expensive.
Search for engine code DAZA. There was one on eBay in Germany a few weeks back, was like $16k plus shipping. Would be very cool but very expensive, and the standard intake manifold will not fit in our cars. With port and DI there is a lot going on for that to be as straightforward a swap as we are undertaking. A bare block would be a great starting point, but expensive.
Although they might require a VIN with registration in your name to order. I know Iroz ordered one right after he bought the RS3 shop car and I believe they only wanted to sell them to verified car owners for engine replacements.
I’ve never bought a long block, but when I’ve ordered other things for the Audi version I had to supply a VIN. Fortunately Autotrader usually has a few for sale with a VIN in the car fax report.
Although they might require a VIN with registration in your name to order. I know Iroz ordered one right after he bought the RS3 shop car and I believe they only wanted to sell them to verified car owners for engine replacements.
That's very common for components of exotic cars these days.
Did Iroz put it in an urQuattro? Or am I thinking of something else.
That's a lot of bones for maybe 40lbs? weight savings.
26kg/57lbs
More to it than that though:
SSP: https://drive.google.com/file/d/101q...179v1uwMc/view
They fixed some of the known issues with the bottom end of the iron block. So despite being aluminum, it's a more stout design.
But yeah, still not cheap, but nothing new from the factory is.
Anyone know what these two hose barbs (circled in green) connected to in the stock installation? The top circle is the smaller barb on the coolant flange. The bottom one is a steel tube that wraps around the engine and plugs into the thermostat housing. Just want to make sure I’ve got this coolant flange design right before I have more made...
The top from head goes to the heater core, bottom is from heater core, the steel pipe goes to the t-stat bypass on the stat housing to feed the water pump.
Here is the cooling schematic for the non-alum block TTRS.
With the afterrun pump and control valve and 2 radiators it's a bit complicated, but basically if you take those out the standard coolant flow to the turbo is from the block (see pic below, our VW blocks actually have an un-machined boss for this I am considering drilling/tapping) and returns back by tee'ing into the water pump fill port from the bottom of the expansion tank.
Another option to supply the turbo with coolant is to tap or replace the freeze plug on the front of the head with a machined piece with a nipple in it.
What are you all thinking for oil supply to the turbo? The TTRS has an extra passage and port cast in at the front of the block off the main oil galley, our 07K engines do not.have this casting. I'm thinking of tapping the main oil galley location where there is a cup-plug now, and running a braided line to the turbo. Anyone else have a good idea for this? I'm not a fan of pulling oil from the head plug, as that has quite a bit less flow available and I'd hate to risk seizing the lifters.
Isn't there a feed port off the oil adapter block for supply to the turbo?
If not, I don't see why an -AN Y-fitting couldn't be used to feed after the filter & before the cooler.
The top from head goes to the heater core, bottom is from heater core, the steel pipe goes to the t-stat bypass on the stat housing to feed the water pump.
I’ll find the coolant schematic and post it.
Craig
Thanks, I’ve seen that schematic. It makes my head hurt, so I’m trying to find a simpler way to plumb my engine 🙂. It seems like for our immediate needs (get it running for track testing and don’t worry about cabin heat) it would make sense for us to just connect those two barbs I circled. Agree?
Hey guys, sorry for my absence, I stopped getting notifications for some reason. Here is the spreadsheet with the parts I have acquired for my build. I also put the link at the bottom of the base kit product page on the website.
08-30-2019, 07:04 PM
