Pauly's go quicker project. (Data Logs!)
11-09-2011, 10:22 AM
#259
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he responded really quick!
When it arrives, i'll be setting the boost to 17-18 psi properly, before it would hit 17 then go 14 psi then drive it to your side of town
It isn't easy setting the boost with an electronic boost controller while on the road, theres no place to be going on a roll from 80 km/h to 180 km/h with out getting caught. Actually there is a road 7 min drive away from my house that is 3 km long and dead, but it's slowly getting built up with houses
That's where i tuned my AFM Link
When it arrives, i'll be setting the boost to 17-18 psi properly, before it would hit 17 then go 14 psi then drive it to your side of town
It isn't easy setting the boost with an electronic boost controller while on the road, theres no place to be going on a roll from 80 km/h to 180 km/h with out getting caught. Actually there is a road 7 min drive away from my house that is 3 km long and dead, but it's slowly getting built up with houses
That's where i tuned my AFM Link
11-12-2011, 03:47 AM
#260
Glad you figured out the problem Pauly! You'll have it back up and running soon enough I'm sure. 
Once you get the EBC and exhaust leaks fixed, I'm very interested in seeing your RPM v. Boost data in 5th. I am still debating between the GT3076 / GTX3076 and still undecided whether to choose the Tial 0.63 or 0.82 hotside.
Once you get the EBC and exhaust leaks fixed, I'm very interested in seeing your RPM v. Boost data in 5th. I am still debating between the GT3076 / GTX3076 and still undecided whether to choose the Tial 0.63 or 0.82 hotside.
11-12-2011, 11:55 AM
#261
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Thanks Steve!
The exhaust leak is minor, i'll use some heavy duty gasket maker to fix it so the problem wont come back.
IMO id spend the extra on the GTX blade, you'll probably gain power with it since it's more efficient.
for street id go for .63a/r. i only got the .82 is that i couldn't get my hands on a .63 at the time. But drive ability on the street with the .82 isn't bad at all since the M-Tune is so much more responsive then the stock AFM chips. i get 2 psi if i put my foot down at 2000 rpm so there's some power and it's no kick in the back on boost either, but you can defiantly feel it come on.
any questions.. feel free..
The exhaust leak is minor, i'll use some heavy duty gasket maker to fix it so the problem wont come back.
IMO id spend the extra on the GTX blade, you'll probably gain power with it since it's more efficient.
for street id go for .63a/r. i only got the .82 is that i couldn't get my hands on a .63 at the time. But drive ability on the street with the .82 isn't bad at all since the M-Tune is so much more responsive then the stock AFM chips. i get 2 psi if i put my foot down at 2000 rpm so there's some power and it's no kick in the back on boost either, but you can defiantly feel it come on.
any questions.. feel free..
11-12-2011, 12:24 PM
#262
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That sounds about like what my hx35 was doing with the spool valve. I like to be able to compare what the top of the line turbos are doing in comparison. Glad you got it sorted out and can enjoy it. I'm in the middle of doing a high compression engine swap right now and I miss driving it. So I'm jealous :-)
11-12-2011, 12:48 PM
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That sounds about like what my hx35 was doing with the spool valve. I like to be able to compare what the top of the line turbos are doing in comparison. Glad you got it sorted out and can enjoy it. I'm in the middle of doing a high compression engine swap right now and I miss driving it. So I'm jealous :-)
I miss driving mine! i'm tempted just to bypass the KLR and drive it but i know i shouldn't or i could be up for a full rebuild 20,000K's to early
Have you done any intake/head/cam work to your 2.5?
11-12-2011, 10:10 PM
#264
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The engine that is going in has a reasonable amount of headwork done. It flows around 220 cfm. We just cleaned up the ceramic liners where they meet the seats. We did back cut the valves some and saw a little improvement. It should make a little more power than the stock engine. Once I get a baseline out of this setup then I will install a cam. ( This engine is out of my 83)
Hopefully I will have had my 16v engine completed long before summer.
I decided to do things in steps rather than jump right into the 16v. Plus it's easier to mock things up on my early car since I don't really like to drive it daily.
Hopefully I will have had my 16v engine completed long before summer.
I decided to do things in steps rather than jump right into the 16v. Plus it's easier to mock things up on my early car since I don't really like to drive it daily.
11-17-2011, 01:11 AM
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The engine that is going in has a reasonable amount of headwork done. It flows around 220 cfm. We just cleaned up the ceramic liners where they meet the seats. We did back cut the valves some and saw a little improvement. It should make a little more power than the stock engine. Once I get a baseline out of this setup then I will install a cam. ( This engine is out of my 83)
Hopefully I will have had my 16v engine completed long before summer.
I decided to do things in steps rather than jump right into the 16v. Plus it's easier to mock things up on my early car since I don't really like to drive it daily.
Hopefully I will have had my 16v engine completed long before summer.
I decided to do things in steps rather than jump right into the 16v. Plus it's easier to mock things up on my early car since I don't really like to drive it daily.
I'm interested to see what results you come up with. on the 16v head also!
)
