Paulyy

its connected from the KLR line near the KLR, maybe it's just to long of a line?

the MAP sensor (which im data logging from) is T'ed off from the intake and the rest of the vacuum lines.

the line to the eBoost is very small in size to get response ( can fit inside a normal vacuum line) i'll change the position from where the line is connected to, to the same spot where the MAP is connected.

No vacuum leaks what so ever. All vacuum lines are brand new pretty much.

reno808

1.Yeah get rid of the line going the KLR leave the KLR on its own.
2.Combine the MAP and the Eboost. Have that line go directly to the intake manifold.
3.Make sure the line is not collapsing as well.

I had to do all of these things and more to get the car to were it is right now.

Paulyy

thanks
I'll do this in the next few days since there's a 90% chance of rain tomorrow.

Paulyy

More Data Logs!!

i achieved 3.84v @ 18 psi on the Rouge Tuning M-Tune



Here is my eBoost 2 Log.


MBC Log


eBoost vs MBC (MBC is blue with red stars/ EBC is Red line)

74goldtarga

Paulyy - these curves look the same to me. I think that is just fine though, so much more adjustability with the EBC but the MBC works well and is simple. Seems you are pretty well dialed in.

What are your parameters used to setup the Eboost 2? I will get you the settings I have in my Eboost street eventually so we can compare (my car is not yet running properly and it's at the shop so I doubt my numbers would be of much value to you).

Paulyy

unfortunately i cannot log smoother than that, which is quite sad as the LM-2 is innovates leading product.

in essence the difference is that if you had a standard wastegate, you can still hold the wastegate shut while the MBC cant.

at the moment, my numbers are:
gate pressure: 13 psi
sensitivity: 2
set point: 49

boost usually sits on 17-18.5 psi on the gauge.

I might have to increase the sensitivity or something because if you can see the boost looks like it's sloping up, i want to level it out.

reno808

How does the car feel?

reno808

Did you make the changes i said?

Paulyy

throws you into the seat in 3rd gear.
I didn't do a 2nd run, but.. which i'll post in a few mins... i did change the gate pressure from 13 to 15psi and i did see a proper spike in boost so having it at 13 is good. once i figure out how to keep the boost from creeping i might be able to go from 13psi to 13.5-14.

yep i re routed the eBoost2 line straight to the MAP sensor.

Paulyy

You can clearly see what happens when i put the gate pressure to 15 psi. boosted to 19 psi then dropped back to 17 psi.

The curve just shows how quickly this turbo builds pressure past 10 psi

Paulyy

Phase two begins here

Well The HG blew since the block overheated because the hose burst and threw all the water out. See here

So the head is off, as well as everything needed to remove the head so time to possibly make it quicker again? or just make it stronger.
It ran strong with the stock head gasket on 17-18 psi.

We're going to drop the engine and change the clutch, oil pan gasket and maybe more.

The list:
- Top end re-seal
- Bottom end re-seal
- Clutch.. as it slips when shifting quick (not smashing gears quick)
- TT bearings
- Big end bearings?
- over bore? (.5mm - 1mm) Wossner 100.5 -101mm pistons
- Carrillo rods? to compliment the pistons.
- knife edge crank? to help balance the lighter pistons and rods
- Head: surface re grind. port polish?
- Coilovers KW (last thing)

? are maybes and are going to be thought through.

This will be a long project as it's going to be done on weekends only, and going to decide and buy everything at once.

333pg333

Well you can do all that, or refresh motor and new headgasket and have quite a bit more money in your budget for other things. A small overbore isn't going to make much difference. Lighter rods and pistons are good, but not totally crucial. How are your pistons Pauly? Not saying don't do it, but I think it depends on your budget. If you can't afford everything including improving your old style suspension, then I reckon you will get better value for money out of refreshed motor and new suspension. If you want a good clutch that holds decent torque yet retains stock modulation I would suggest the SouthBend as one of the best options.

toddk911

I agree with 333. Just get a Cometic hg and ARP studs and get her back on the road!

Paulyy

Thanks pat, always love your opinions!
That's why i had a ? next to them as i need to think it out. i was thinking of refreshing the motor either way with new piston rings and rod bearings as it's done almost 200,000 km. Those options are more for if the cylinders look under the pistons. visually they look good though.
If they're bad i'll have to over bore (better then buying a new engine) and rods will complement the pistons if i go that route.


i'll be keeping the stock studs and stock or wide fire HG as i hear more stories of the cometic gaskets going bad ect. and the fact i don't really need one.

Eric_Oz_S2

Paully

What suspension do you have on the car?

The crank lightening seems to polarise opinion. Some suggest that it shouldn't be touched as lightening it can actually lead to more vibration. The '86 951 as I recall had forged rods anyway, so probably only minimal benefit for changing unless the car has been heavily tracked which may lead to some fatigue issues.

It sometimes seems easier to keep spending on 'minor' updates and engine mods than spending the big $ on suspension. I am at that fork now, where my next spend will be on some much better shocks and solid bushings. Unfortunately this will cost somewhere around $4k, so will take some doing to get past my other half! For next year I am committed (i think ) to only minor mods like cat delete.

Keep us informed.