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Pauly's go quicker project. (Data Logs!)

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Old 09-30-2012, 10:03 PM
  #331  
333pg333
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Eric, put it this way. If you're happier, she's happier. Sell the concept that you're only thinking of her by updating to decent suspension!
Old 09-30-2012, 10:09 PM
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Scott H
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Or you can go the other way and keep a bank account in your name and never speak of it. When the parts show up you play the "oh, I got a killer deal on eBay on this full Ohlin's setup, only $500!!!!" What she doesn't know won't hurt her, plus all women love a sale
Old 10-01-2012, 12:20 AM
  #333  
Paulyy
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Originally Posted by Eric_Oz_S2
Paully

What suspension do you have on the car?

The crank lightening seems to polarise opinion. Some suggest that it shouldn't be touched as lightening it can actually lead to more vibration. The '86 951 as I recall had forged rods anyway, so probably only minimal benefit for changing unless the car has been heavily tracked which may lead to some fatigue issues.

It sometimes seems easier to keep spending on 'minor' updates and engine mods than spending the big $ on suspension. I am at that fork now, where my next spend will be on some much better shocks and solid bushings. Unfortunately this will cost somewhere around $4k, so will take some doing to get past my other half! For next year I am committed (i think ) to only minor mods like cat delete.

Keep us informed.
At the moment, i've got koni struts/shocks front and rear. front are coilovers, with 300lb hypercoils and rear a supposedly 29mm t Bars.

I doubt i'd be knifing the edges of the crank, was just a thought. that's correct i've got forged rods on mine, they're just heavy.

Well right now my engine has enough power, i've got room to go more if i run the e85 map and up the boost but i don't feel the need.
If the price is right i'll get my head ported out. if not i'll leave it.

in the future id like to take my car to track days for fun really but i wouldn't run the suspension i've got on it now, it's just to soft. i want to go stiffer with more adjustability then just front ride height.

P.S i've got my old 2.5" stock exhaust laying around and it happens to be a "euro" one with a resonator and muffler. it had a cat on it installed but i've ripped it off and also closed the wastegate tie in. but there's a hole on it where the wbo2 bung was. If you're interested PM me!


Originally Posted by Scott H
Or you can go the other way and keep a bank account in your name and never speak of it. When the parts show up you play the "oh, I got a killer deal on eBay on this full Ohlin's setup, only $500!!!!" What she doesn't know won't hurt her, plus all women love a sale
that's a good one! but since im young and far off marriage.. that isn't needed


At the moment im in the middle of removing the engine. well the bits on the engine to get it out.
Old 10-01-2012, 02:08 AM
  #334  
thingo
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Kw suspension is a great upgrade, improves the ride and the performance.
Old 10-01-2012, 03:22 AM
  #335  
Paulyy
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Originally Posted by thingo
Kw suspension is a great upgrade, improves the ride and the performance.
the question is how stiff to go with out ruining the ride on the road
Old 10-01-2012, 05:23 AM
  #336  
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Go the KW Clubsport version - 540F rate which I think should be OK for the road.
Old 10-01-2012, 05:58 AM
  #337  
Paulyy
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Originally Posted by Eric_Oz_S2
Go the KW Clubsport version - 540F rate which I think should be OK for the road.
when i looked them up from a google search to find vendors. only rates are 515/285
which i assume you still need Tbars which i don't want to run. if the stock T bars are 126 lb/min and add on the rear coil (285) i'll get 411 lb/in right? so if i ask for something around 411lb/in spring, it should be some what the same as with the T bar?

I emailed one eBay vendor to see if i can get custom supring rates to run without T bars. just waiting on a reply

Last edited by Paulyy; 10-01-2012 at 07:32 AM.
Old 10-01-2012, 07:03 AM
  #338  
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Mine were about 600(110n/m) at the front, no problems with the ride at all. Don't know about your math, with 515f I'd be looking for around 600r without t bars. kw use eibach springs (they are just a different colour)
Old 10-01-2012, 07:25 AM
  #339  
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The rear will be about 126 + 0.56(? i think) x 285 = 286. Without T bars you need about a 510 spring to get the same rate.
Old 10-01-2012, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by 333pg333
Eric, put it this way. If you're happier, she's happier. Sell the concept that you're only thinking of her by updating to decent suspension!
That sounds like male logic!!

(unfortunately female logic is the diametric opposite of male logic )
Old 10-01-2012, 07:34 AM
  #341  
Paulyy
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I'm still new about spring rates ect. is there a forumla to work out what i need?

I thought the front is suppose to be heavier/stiffer then the rear? no?
Old 10-01-2012, 08:31 AM
  #342  
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There is a lot of formulas and opinions around re spring rates, I am just quoting what works for me. The front spring rate is a lot higher than the rear because the spring is not at the end of the arm like the front, that is how the term 'effective rate' comes into the equation.
Old 10-01-2012, 08:40 AM
  #343  
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You mean % wise effective when you're saying that Rod, yes?
As Rod says Paulyy, you don't actually have to run their painted coils. Those pics I sent you of my KWs have Eibachs as my 2nd set.
Old 10-01-2012, 08:40 AM
  #344  
Paulyy
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That clears up a lot actually!

Is there a balance from the front & rear of the car for the effective spring rates like a 40:50 for argument sake?
Old 10-01-2012, 08:43 AM
  #345  
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Originally Posted by 333pg333
You mean % wise effective when you're saying that Rod, yes?
As Rod says Paulyy, you don't actually have to run their painted coils. Those pics I sent you of my KWs have Eibachs as my 2nd set.
I thought so, i figured they weren't the original ones they came with.


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