Originally Posted by Tms951

I have used drag radials, the are not the stickiest ones nor do they have the most drag dedicated side wall but they are drag radials. They were designed as a tire you car use on the street. I use these as my street tires and they are fine as such and even do better in the rain than the old street tires I used.

Running 17psi of boost and useing Bridgestone re-750 tires (340 treadware) I got a 2.202 60' and ran a 12.67. Got wheel spin of the line and managed to keep it a minimum on that run with alot of work.

Running ~22psi of boost with nitto 555r drag radials i got a 1.93 60' and ran a 12.28. I managed not to bog and get a tiny bit of wheel spin of the line on that run. Other runs that day I was bogging. With these tires it was hard not to bog. I did not lower the air pressure in them and I did not heat them up.

you can see in this video i do not bog


And in this one I did
]

I could get better 60' times with the nitto tires if I lowered the tire pressure and heated them up. I think I might be able to knock as much as .2 seconds off if I was really lucky. To do this I would have to launch at 6000+ rpm. I doubt the car will hold up to that long if even once.

Originally Posted by Tms951

I have used drag radials, the are not the stickiest ones nor do they have the most drag dedicated side wall but they are drag radials. They were designed as a tire you car use on the street. I use these as

I could get better 60' times with the nitto tires if I lowered the tire pressure and heated them up. I think I might be able to knock as much as .2 seconds off if I was really lucky. To do this I would have to launch at 6000+ rpm. I doubt the car will hold up to that long if even once.

Originally Posted by lart951

ST is a legend, a myth a fairy tale. He just pulled a incredible dyno at the fest 414rwhp @ 35 psi, the new power band is wide, a lot of low end TQ, his mystery turbo spools quickly at 6800rpms, max power is @ 7900rpms he surely will destroy tms next time they meet at the strip.

Originally Posted by 333pg333

I was wondering the same thing. If you had a stockish car ie 300hp or less on say R-spec rubber V's a lighter car with 450whp on the same rubber, how much difference would there be in the 60' times? In that with a heavier car and not having tyre spinning power you might get off the line ok v's the lighter, more powerful car that is prone to a lot more wheelspin.

Next topic. So if we are in the car with 450whp+ with stronger tranny and drivetrain (CV + axles), what is going to happen? Wheelspin or bog? Or what will break first? Traction or parts...

Also for the guys that are not used to drag racing, what is the REALISTIC r/t? My one and only time at the drags yielded a .500 r/t which I thought was ok?

Originally Posted by dand86951

So if all went exactly right you could have been down in the 1.7sec 60' range with the DR. I agree that it is going to be tricky to get the 951 down to low 60' times consistently without breaking something.

Originally Posted by dand86951

So if all went exactly right you could have been down in the 1.7sec 60' range with the DR. I agree that it is going to be tricky to get the 951 down to low 60' times consistently without breaking something.

Originally Posted by A.Wayne

9faux,faux axles do not take kindly to sticky tires and launch control .......

Originally Posted by 95ONE

I think TMS and I figured out the CV joing problem. I have launched hard numerous times on the street. (Afraid of the track because of the VHT)
It really punched me in the back. When I feel I have gotten some good seat time in the new set up, I'll go try and break something.
But, I don't think the CV's will go with the brace installed. I think it will be the transmission. But, since I need less kinetic energy defined as the work needed to accelerate a body of a given mass from rest to its current velocity.(less mass and weight) I dont thing the same harsh launch will be as hard on my Transmission.

Originally Posted by 333pg333

Hence my addition of stronger CVs and axles in that question mon ami.

Originally Posted by 95ONE

I think TMS and I figured out the CV joing problem. I have launched hard numerous times on the street. (Afraid of the track because of the VHT)
It really punched me in the back. When I feel I have gotten some good seat time in the new set up, I'll go try and break something.
But, I don't think the CV's will go with the brace installed. I think it will be the transmission. But, since I need less kinetic energy defined as the work needed to accelerate a body of a given mass from rest to its current velocity.(less mass and weight) I dont thing the same harsh launch will be as hard on my Transmission.

Originally Posted by LS1951

I just found this thread and read through the whole thing. Do you have pictures of your trans brace? I am planning to brace my transmission and wanted to see what you did.

I just built my car and ran a 13.1 at 110, I couldn't hook up for the life of me. I then noticed a new noise coming from the rear end and the next day I found out what it was. I was racing a mustang and when I shifted into second POP! I had no gears, I managed to completly crack the rear bellhousing all the way through. It was just floating on the torque tube. I also shattered the drive shaft at the splines. I've now installed a solid trans mount but I also want to brace the transaxle to the torque tube so that it wont try to rotate upwards.

Thanks,
Craig

Originally Posted by A.Wayne

Hmmm, interesting to know your source for this upgrade. As we tried this route 5 +years ago with custom upgraded axles etc and they popped like pretzels.
Also had looked into converting to 930 axles at the time.....

Originally Posted by 333pg333

How custom was custom? If they weren't good enough why would the 930's be an improvement?