1/4 Timeslips. Best 10 on the list? --Video
#331
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I have used drag radials, the are not the stickiest ones nor do they have the most drag dedicated side wall but they are drag radials. They were designed as a tire you car use on the street. I use these as my street tires and they are fine as such and even do better in the rain than the old street tires I used.
Running 17psi of boost and useing Bridgestone re-750 tires (340 treadware) I got a 2.202 60' and ran a 12.67. Got wheel spin of the line and managed to keep it a minimum on that run with alot of work.
Running ~22psi of boost with nitto 555r drag radials i got a 1.93 60' and ran a 12.28. I managed not to bog and get a tiny bit of wheel spin of the line on that run. Other runs that day I was bogging. With these tires it was hard not to bog. I did not lower the air pressure in them and I did not heat them up.
you can see in this video i do not bog
And in this one I did
]
I could get better 60' times with the nitto tires if I lowered the tire pressure and heated them up. I think I might be able to knock as much as .2 seconds off if I was really lucky. To do this I would have to launch at 6000+ rpm. I doubt the car will hold up to that long if even once.
Running 17psi of boost and useing Bridgestone re-750 tires (340 treadware) I got a 2.202 60' and ran a 12.67. Got wheel spin of the line and managed to keep it a minimum on that run with alot of work.
Running ~22psi of boost with nitto 555r drag radials i got a 1.93 60' and ran a 12.28. I managed not to bog and get a tiny bit of wheel spin of the line on that run. Other runs that day I was bogging. With these tires it was hard not to bog. I did not lower the air pressure in them and I did not heat them up.
you can see in this video i do not bog
And in this one I did
]
I could get better 60' times with the nitto tires if I lowered the tire pressure and heated them up. I think I might be able to knock as much as .2 seconds off if I was really lucky. To do this I would have to launch at 6000+ rpm. I doubt the car will hold up to that long if even once.
#332
Burning Brakes
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I have used drag radials, the are not the stickiest ones nor do they have the most drag dedicated side wall but they are drag radials. They were designed as a tire you car use on the street. I use these as
I could get better 60' times with the nitto tires if I lowered the tire pressure and heated them up. I think I might be able to knock as much as .2 seconds off if I was really lucky. To do this I would have to launch at 6000+ rpm. I doubt the car will hold up to that long if even once.
I could get better 60' times with the nitto tires if I lowered the tire pressure and heated them up. I think I might be able to knock as much as .2 seconds off if I was really lucky. To do this I would have to launch at 6000+ rpm. I doubt the car will hold up to that long if even once.
#333
ST is a legend, a myth a fairy tale. He just pulled a incredible dyno at the fest 414rwhp @ 35 psi, the new power band is wide, a lot of low end TQ, his mystery turbo spools quickly at 6800rpms, max power is @ 7900rpms he surely will destroy tms next time they meet at the strip.
Your picture made me laugh so hard I pee'd my pants
#334
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I was wondering the same thing. If you had a stockish car ie 300hp or less on say R-spec rubber V's a lighter car with 450whp on the same rubber, how much difference would there be in the 60' times? In that with a heavier car and not having tyre spinning power you might get off the line ok v's the lighter, more powerful car that is prone to a lot more wheelspin.
Next topic. So if we are in the car with 450whp+ with stronger tranny and drivetrain (CV + axles), what is going to happen? Wheelspin or bog? Or what will break first? Traction or parts...
Also for the guys that are not used to drag racing, what is the REALISTIC r/t? My one and only time at the drags yielded a .500 r/t which I thought was ok?
Next topic. So if we are in the car with 450whp+ with stronger tranny and drivetrain (CV + axles), what is going to happen? Wheelspin or bog? Or what will break first? Traction or parts...
Also for the guys that are not used to drag racing, what is the REALISTIC r/t? My one and only time at the drags yielded a .500 r/t which I thought was ok?
A .400 is Perfect light at a competition on a Pro tree. red, All three yellow simultaniously, green.
BUT. at some practice events. a .500 is a snoozers light. you fell asleep, woke up, had some breakfast and coffee then rolled out of the light. because a 0.0 is set up as perfect.
It all depends.
Last edited by 95ONE; 08-29-2008 at 04:55 PM.
#335
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It really punched me in the back. When I feel I have gotten some good seat time in the new set up, I'll go try and break something.
But, I don't think the CV's will go with the brace installed. I think it will be the transmission. But, since I need less kinetic energy defined as the work needed to accelerate a body of a given mass from rest to its current velocity.(less mass and weight) I dont thing the same harsh launch will be as hard on my Transmission.
#336
I think it is theoreticaly possable. I had more rpms to use and more grip to use. I don't think I will ever try it because I think it would break. The good launch in the first video is the softest I could launch it with out bogging, that is all that I was going for.
#337
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95One you are right in that the lower mass of your car will make it a lot easier on the trans and axles than our rather porky full stock weight cars. It will be interesting with your new power to see how low you can get.
Tms951, I used a soft launch actually feathering my clutch just a tiny bit to get down to the 2.0 range. I too couldn't really just raise the rpm and dump the clutch. Way too many $$$ signs dancing in my head when I thought about a really aggressive hard launch. Also, just didn't have the stick in my tires so it was a balancing act between throttle and clutch.
Tms951, I used a soft launch actually feathering my clutch just a tiny bit to get down to the 2.0 range. I too couldn't really just raise the rpm and dump the clutch. Way too many $$$ signs dancing in my head when I thought about a really aggressive hard launch. Also, just didn't have the stick in my tires so it was a balancing act between throttle and clutch.
#338
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#339
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I think TMS and I figured out the CV joing problem. I have launched hard numerous times on the street. (Afraid of the track because of the VHT)
It really punched me in the back. When I feel I have gotten some good seat time in the new set up, I'll go try and break something.
But, I don't think the CV's will go with the brace installed. I think it will be the transmission. But, since I need less kinetic energy defined as the work needed to accelerate a body of a given mass from rest to its current velocity.(less mass and weight) I dont thing the same harsh launch will be as hard on my Transmission.
It really punched me in the back. When I feel I have gotten some good seat time in the new set up, I'll go try and break something.
But, I don't think the CV's will go with the brace installed. I think it will be the transmission. But, since I need less kinetic energy defined as the work needed to accelerate a body of a given mass from rest to its current velocity.(less mass and weight) I dont thing the same harsh launch will be as hard on my Transmission.
BTW I'm not building my cars to run 1/4 miles but am still interested, and as someone pointed out this is one of the staple acceleration figures that all magazines test cars on so there is some validity...isn't there lol.
#340
Formula One Spin Doctor
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Hmmm, interesting to know your source for this upgrade. As we tried this route 5 +years ago with custom upgraded axles etc and they popped like pretzels.
Also had looked into converting to 930 axles at the time.....
Also had looked into converting to 930 axles at the time.....
Last edited by A.Wayne; 08-31-2008 at 04:44 AM.
#341
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I think TMS and I figured out the CV joing problem. I have launched hard numerous times on the street. (Afraid of the track because of the VHT)
It really punched me in the back. When I feel I have gotten some good seat time in the new set up, I'll go try and break something.
But, I don't think the CV's will go with the brace installed. I think it will be the transmission. But, since I need less kinetic energy defined as the work needed to accelerate a body of a given mass from rest to its current velocity.(less mass and weight) I dont thing the same harsh launch will be as hard on my Transmission.
It really punched me in the back. When I feel I have gotten some good seat time in the new set up, I'll go try and break something.
But, I don't think the CV's will go with the brace installed. I think it will be the transmission. But, since I need less kinetic energy defined as the work needed to accelerate a body of a given mass from rest to its current velocity.(less mass and weight) I dont thing the same harsh launch will be as hard on my Transmission.
I just built my car and ran a 13.1 at 110, I couldn't hook up for the life of me. I then noticed a new noise coming from the rear end and the next day I found out what it was. I was racing a mustang and when I shifted into second POP! I had no gears, I managed to completly crack the rear bellhousing all the way through. It was just floating on the torque tube. I also shattered the drive shaft at the splines. I've now installed a solid trans mount but I also want to brace the transaxle to the torque tube so that it wont try to rotate upwards.
Thanks,
Craig
#342
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I just found this thread and read through the whole thing. Do you have pictures of your trans brace? I am planning to brace my transmission and wanted to see what you did.
I just built my car and ran a 13.1 at 110, I couldn't hook up for the life of me. I then noticed a new noise coming from the rear end and the next day I found out what it was. I was racing a mustang and when I shifted into second POP! I had no gears, I managed to completly crack the rear bellhousing all the way through. It was just floating on the torque tube. I also shattered the drive shaft at the splines. I've now installed a solid trans mount but I also want to brace the transaxle to the torque tube so that it wont try to rotate upwards.
Thanks,
Craig
I just built my car and ran a 13.1 at 110, I couldn't hook up for the life of me. I then noticed a new noise coming from the rear end and the next day I found out what it was. I was racing a mustang and when I shifted into second POP! I had no gears, I managed to completly crack the rear bellhousing all the way through. It was just floating on the torque tube. I also shattered the drive shaft at the splines. I've now installed a solid trans mount but I also want to brace the transaxle to the torque tube so that it wont try to rotate upwards.
Thanks,
Craig
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...smission+brace
Page 4.
#344
Rennlist Member
How custom was custom? If they weren't good enough why would the 930's be an improvement?
#345
Formula One Spin Doctor
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