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No, weather is cold at night but no frost. In Front is forage for the biogas facility.
Winter is coming late here because the sea is warm from the gulf stream. No continental clima like in the US.
In the middle of a CE panel refresh...can't believe I've had this car for 10 years and haven't done it;...honestly it's a little intimidating....I have the traditional low voltage reading on the gauge, etc...excited to see the difference in running and driving.
Has anyone else noticed some of the space connectors for the fuses aren't all grabbing the fuse with the same pressure? Some of mine feel too lose. I checked the back and I couldn't see a graceful way of pressuring the space connectors down a little bit to help.
Does anyone have a tip / trick for doing that without pulling them out of the back of the panel?
Does anyone have a tip / trick for doing that without pulling them out of the back of the panel?
Yes. Each group of five fuses is fronted by a plastic... well front. There are four latches around that front plastic part. Go get some jeweler's screwdrivers, then gently pry the latches outward a bit while pulling out. That should remove the plastic front and allow you easy access to the fuse socket pins.
The problem is the fuse plugs get loose, which makes the current go way up which makes the pins warm which burns the fuse spades which makes the resistance increase. This is especially bad on the high current draw fuses like the front radiator fan, fuel pumps, and the like. Clean up the fuse socket pins with a jeweler's file and some sandpaper on a Q tip, then squeeze them together, re-assemble, and use *NEW* fuses. Remember the old fuses probably have dirty/oxidized/melted spades. Once the new fuse is in and snug, never touch it again :-)
You would not believe what some PO's have done. I remember one car that someone was spraying WD40 in there. What a complete mess!
I personally recommend doing this only on blocks with loose/burned fuses. If the block is good, leave it alone.
Hey Christopher thanks for the great advice....totally forgot those fuse sockets can come out.
I actually figured out I could put an awl into the back of the female spades and give it a lil spiral circular motion.. I didn't have any damage to the fuse sockets from over heating but randomly there was a fuse that was obviously way loose; quite a few in fact...so I went through every female spade connecting to a fuse...every fuse had a nice even resistance when pressed back in.
My fuses aren't very old and are tinned against oxidation so decided to re-use. On the relay side however I had some ancient ones with copper spades and those were showing oxidation so they got a good clean with wire brush and a thorough wash down with Deoxit 100....as well as a nice shower in all the relay sockets.
The plugs along the bottom were at first basically impossible to remove; the instructions I read neglected to talk about the little plastic latch on the top part you have to hold up while using a tool to pull on those little loops...once I figured that one out everything came out well. All those male spade connectors on the board got a good clean with wire brush...turned the board upside down and blew any particles out...then a big shower with DeOxit....
Having a de-stress / pull mentally back out of the weeds and seeds beer for a few min then the reinstall. I'll be cleaning the ground points with a wire brush as well....there are ZERO miscellaneous ground wires; I did a small bit of customization and decided to run a dedicated ground wire than be a pretend electric wizard but it still goes to the bundle. Outside of that one extra ground and 2 add'l wires I used to run a relay in an unused slot we'll get it back together hopefully within an hour.....or so...lol. I'm excited...not done it before and every time I clean electrics on my car I get rewarded with better running.
Update: yes, better running is putting it mildly...I exit the gas station and put the usual pressure on the pedal in 1st and it fishtails. I'm in 4th on the freeway and touch it and it lunges...and pulls harder when I press further than it used to. I got nominal improvement in the voltage gauge but its staying above 12 V and the windows /sunroof are working better. The one touch relay is working (again)...overall very pleased with the change. My ABS light comes on now as soon as I start the engine but after doing some reading its the relay on the panel...its old and probably bit the dust when I pried it off. I'll worry about the other relays if this doesn't fix it but will surprise me if cleaning the CE panel somehow messed up the other relays.
My ABS light comes on now as soon as I start the engine but after doing some reading its the relay on the panel...its old and probably bit the dust when I pried it off. I'll worry about the other relays if this doesn't fix it but will surprise me if cleaning the CE panel somehow messed up the other relays.
NOOBIE,
Take note of the ABS possibly being non-functional. My white 86.5 5-speed had an ABS issue and I went hot into the same off-ramp as I usually do and was surprised by some fishtailing! It was also fitted with a non-stock brake bias (55 I think - put back to stock afterwards), so that might have contributed, but the impression I got was that the ABS had been saving my rear more than I realized!
In the spirit of this thread: For the Silver Stroker, I came up with a rough layout for a new exhaust system, ...again.
Last edited by hernanca; 11-13-2021 at 11:43 PM.
Reason: Claire Hitty
Changed oil pan gasket because I noticed a tiny leak. Dry ice blasted pan and block at mating surface and around inside of girdle Hard to get the camera right when you aren't looking through it and are looking at what you are doing. Don't be too hard on my video skills. I need a headmount.
Cleaned the 14 pin connector. Cleaned the jump post and the wire terminals that go there...found out the jump post itself wasn't tight and voila, I got an extra 1/2 volt...I'll take it.
Changed oil pan gasket because I noticed a tiny leak. Dry ice blasted pan and block at mating surface and around inside of girdle Hard to get the camera right when you aren't looking through it and are looking at what you are doing. Don't be too hard on my video skills. I need a headmount.
I can't get enough of watching those dry ice blasting videos! What an amazing job they do, in the right hands.
I assume no foul shooting it up at the engine innards? There is no water produced, just CO2.
I think you need a dropcloth versus paper for any work on loose items
Cheers
I can't get enough of watching those dry ice blasting videos! What an amazing job they do, in the right hands.
I assume no foul shooting it up at the engine innards? There is no water produced, just CO2.
I think you need a dropcloth versus paper for any work on loose items
Cheers
Yep, just CO2, no water. Been doing it commercially for a few years.
The dropcloth is a 8' long by 6' diameter roll of some fluffy paper product from Georgia Pacific I picked up cheap. Use it for oil drips when working on trucks and other vehicles. Nuts and bolts don't bounce away either.
Changed oil pan gasket because I noticed a tiny leak. Dry ice blasted pan and block at mating surface and around inside of girdle Hard to get the camera right when you aren't looking through it and are looking at what you are doing. Don't be too hard on my video skills. I need a headmount. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=52fuxzoLsO4
What equipment are you using for the Dry Ice cleaning? Might come in handle to clean up tools and parts for my injection molding machines. And then a little 928 stuff on the side.
What equipment are you using for the Dry Ice cleaning? Might come in handle to clean up tools and parts for my injection molding machines. And then a little 928 stuff on the side.
I am using cold jet (their ice tech division they acquired) KG30 pro. I have two compressors, a 185 cfm ingersol rand and a 375 cfm Sullair. You can't really do it with anythng less than a 185 cfm diesel compressor. Your shop compressor won't put out enough cfm to effectively run it. When I blast injection molds, I generally run the 375 cfm at 150 psi. You get more production out of it. The smaller compressor is used for ice blasting char off wood for insurance jobs. Don't need a lot of pressure, just throughput so those are generally done at 100psi.
You'll wrap up about $20,000 in the blaster, maybe $30,000 unless you can buy a demo unit, got mine for $15,000. Then you have the compressor. If you find the right sunbelt rental auction, you can get a nice one for $15,j000 or so. That would be a 185cfm. Generally, the 185 cfms go to 120psi max. You'll want a high pressure one if you can get one (it would have a turbo on the engine). They go to 175psi and would be fine for single machine blasting. You'll also want a really good aftercooler and water separator. If you can find a compressor that has this, you'll be looking at $50-$60k used for one of those.
10-10-2021, 10:08 AM
