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Fixed my years-long idle issue...replaced the dipstick tube o-ring and dipstick as well. The old dipstick tube o-ring was at least 50% larger in diameter than the new one. Took more time to clean around the base where the tube goes in to actually do the work. loads of power! Had no idea it was leaking so bad...what a huge difference this little change made.
The o-ring is 5 bucks....it's a really easy job to do and the reward I got from the car was way more than the risk to do the job. It doesn't take long to do either....I'd make sure to also change the dipstick at the same time. Today I drove the he11 out of it.
Investigated the belt tension warning on my '89GT Electrical seemed ok, tension was if anything slightly high on 6500 mile (Conti) belt. Tried to check tensioner oil level but the fill nipple sheared off. Stripped the belt and tensioner off. Appears to have a Geba pump but its the same age as the belt and feels very smooth so will reuse it - especially as the pump seems to have gone up massively in price since I last bought one. Cam gears look as if they need to be changed though, oil pump gear too. I think these might be original so have done ~150k miles. Making a Roger list 😁
Hello from Germany.
Some pictures how to rebuild my engine of my S4.Honed to 100.1mm
Piston coated with lubricating varnish based on Mos2 with a diameter of 100.07mm
Outlet Valve guides renewed, valve seats milled, valve stem seals, valves ground in, heads plannedCylinder head gaskets with 1.4mm are installed
Piston rings new
main bearings new
Connecting rod bearings new
I use Mos2 assembly LM 48 Liqui Moly paste for the cylinders, is that ok? The Piston before coated
Windows have been very slow going up and down accompanied by voltmeter that goes down as temps rise. New front engine harness, GB alternator w/ supplementary cable....
I have Hans' instant up/down window set up and literally remembered a day or so ago....I have never cleaned / refreshed the connection to the outboard relay that provides the instant up/down capability....the way its made the main power for the windows is routed through the unit, so good connection for those heavy power wires is pretty critical (I learned). One other issue; the relay would not shut off power to the window motors once the windows nested in their grooves at the top of their travel....I'd have to hit the up button again to release the relay...unless volt meter was reading 13 or so....then it would ....somewhat reluctantly...comply
Wire tooth brush....generous helping of DeOxit on both relay connections and the wires that plug into them and presto! even in the what is probably 50 degree or so garage...windows going up and down just fine and relay is cutting power when windows are fully raised. It's pretty cold today with snow against the edge of the driveway from plow; wanted to take it out and see if the bad connection(s) to the relay were heating it up and causing extra drain (this relay would be powered all the time, not just when windows are moving). Will be doing that test very soon but super pleased with results....not sure how many of us have this set up...but if you do and you're like me and totally spaced out servicing those connections when you do your CE refresh or ground refresh etc. it'll definitely make a diff! I've had this set up in the car since he first put it out there for us and never have cleaned it ....doh!
Windows have been very slow going up and down accompanied by voltmeter that goes down as temps rise. New front engine harness, GB alternator w/ supplementary cable....
I have Hans' instant up/down window set up and literally remembered a day or so ago....I have never cleaned / refreshed the connection to the outboard relay that provides the instant up/down capability....the way its made the main power for the windows is routed through the unit, so good connection for those heavy power wires is pretty critical (I learned). One other issue; the relay would not shut off power to the window motors once the windows nested in their grooves at the top of their travel....I'd have to hit the up button again to release the relay...unless volt meter was reading 13 or so....then it would ....somewhat reluctantly...comply
Wire tooth brush....generous helping of DeOxit on both relay connections and the wires that plug into them and presto! even in the what is probably 50 degree or so garage...windows going up and down just fine and relay is cutting power when windows are fully raised. It's pretty cold today with snow against the edge of the driveway from plow; wanted to take it out and see if the bad connection(s) to the relay were heating it up and causing extra drain (this relay would be powered all the time, not just when windows are moving). Will be doing that test very soon but super pleased with results....not sure how many of us have this set up...but if you do and you're like me and totally spaced out servicing those connections when you do your CE refresh or ground refresh etc. it'll definitely make a diff! I've had this set up in the car since he first put it out there for us and never have cleaned it ....doh!
Thanks for the tips. Can I ask what is the HANS instant window setup.
12-06-2021, 07:59 PM
