Vlocity

The last bit........ I promise.

While I had the intake off, I port matched the intake to the cylinders. It took me about 20 hours with a dremel tool, but I would guess that I picked up just under 2 square inches of intake opening.

I insulated the bottom of the intake where the intercooler resides. Keeping the cool part cool helps.

One of the problems with the "early Andy" manifold is the lack of support in the middle of the intake. My solution was to put in place 1 inch tall 3/8 diameter sleeves. (Just on the center 3 bolts on each side...the ends are fine)

I can attest that this solution works great. At just 10 pounds of torque the intake and sleeve were in compression and I did not have to exceed the factory torque spec for the manifold. Unlike the initial installation.

I also put in the Mother of ALL Heat exchangers for the intercooler. This is a 24 inch x 12 inch core that is 1 inch thick. I mounted two 1250 cfm pusher fans to work with my 2950 puller fan on the back side of the radiator to move air.
I sealed the heat exchanger to the radiator with an insualtion strip on the top and both sides to help drive air through the radiator instead of it being pushed out all sides. I did leave the bottom open though so that I could wash out debris.

The water is circulated by a 25 GPM Deadenbear pump. Shooting the return line from the 'radiator" with my pyrometer at the track I was only a few degrees above ambient......this goes a long way to reduce my intake manifold temperatures and keep me at arms length from detonation. The heat exchanger reduced my intercooler fluid temps by about another 25 degrees from what I can see. (Windshield washer fluid with a bottle of watter wetter)

So there you have my winter project in a few (long) posts.

The best part is just knowing that I have some additional capacity in the system that wasn't there before and a knock sensor to intervene if something bad happens.

To those who survived reading all of this...thanks for letting me share.

Ken

Rick Carter

Ken,
Great job and well worth the effort. You were right about the check valve i haven't been able to find one that will fit into a 3/4" inside diameter hose.

Vlocity

This will work it's only 1/3 psi. I think the 0 pressure one is also on this site....but I couldn't find it.

http://www.specialtymfg.com/plastic_...ve/default.asp

Ken

Ralph Newman

I feal like I should be sending you all tuition checks. This is really going to be fun.
Thanks again, Ralph

DR

Ken,

You've been busy! Excellent job on all the upgrades and great job on the track! I really enjoyed taking a break and watching your video today, thanks for sharing.

I am also very pleased to hear of your experiance with the ProVent. :-)

Vlocity

DR,

The Provent works great. I was just running an open system last year with my undersized crankcase vent and valve cover vents going directly to a catch can. After 30 minutes on the track there would be a quart of oil in the catch can. Now the separated oil is routed back from the can to a "T" I placed on the dip stick tube. I used a little over a quart of oil for the two full days.

The key to making the Provent work is not necking down the intake to less than the 1 inch inside diameter.

I just need to Shark tune this set up now and then I can "stop messing with it".

Regards,

Ken

Ralph Newman

We are gitting close now. I am modifing the the oil filler vent right now. Next question: I will probably make the intake gasket out of hard material like Andy. However, I have new GTS gaskets and I was thinking about making steel standoff for them. Anybody try that or have a gasket material they would recommend.
Thanks again, Ralph

Tony

ive been running the sheet paper/rubber like stuff from Pepboys or the like. Its actually more like a thin cardboard but has some rubber like flexibility. Trim to fit with an exacto then a thin film of Right Stuff around the perimeter of the intake ports. Its not thick at all, but has done the trick so far.

Vlocity

Ralph:

I have an entire sheet of the material that I think Andy used.

http://www.allstategasket.com/info_g...style-1500.asp

This has worked very well. I can certainly part with some if you need it.

Regards,

Ken

Ralph Newman

Thanks, Ken and Tony
I actually have some of the same material. Just seeing how well it worked or if someone had a better way.
Hi HO, HI HO, Off to the exacto knife I go.

Ralph Newman

Getting very close now. Andy's instructions kinda shows the routing of the throttle cable. However, it looks like the cable sheath has been stripped. I plan on plagerizing Bill Ball's final pulley bracket assembly( two pulleys on bracket to throttle arm so does not bind) so what is my next step with the cable.
Thanks, Ralph

DR

Our production intakes have steel shoulder bushings pressed into the castings.
This solved the gasket "squish" issue while still having a solid connection to the heads. The bonus is we now use factory original gaskets with NO sealant..which is very nice!

What I did was mimic the function of the factory steel S4 style intake bushings that allow for a firm contact to the head while compressing the factory gasket by approx. 1/3.

As you can see in the following photos my machinist CNC'd exact recesses on the underside of the intake. We then press in precision steel shoulder bushings that stick out 2/3 the thickness of the stock gasket. With this setup we can use the factory S4 Gasket which has the metal reinforcing ring around the ports. We now have a direct solid intake connection to the head with no issue of over compressing the stock gaskets.. and use factory intake torque specs :-)

I don't see why something similar couldn't be done with the early style intakes.

Hope this helps give you some ideas.

EDIT: Further testing showed that the 1/8" bushings needed to be thicker, switched to 3/16" bushings. See Post #1957 on page 131 for more details

Bill Ball

Ralph, if you level throttle housing as I did, when you fix the cable path with those pulleys, you will have to use an extra elbow in the hose to the to the ISV on one end, as shifting the throttle changes relationship of the ISV hose fittings Andy provided. Please ignore the funky clamps.

Bill Ball

Dave, this is excellent. I plan to do something similar to mine.

BC

I thought the idea was to draw air IN both cam covers (since the oil drain backs in the heads have oil draining DOWN, so the air would be good to go in the same direction) and then up and out the front oil filler area through a separator and possibly into the exhaust so as to draw some vac?