The Twin Screw Thread
03-19-2008, 02:54 AM
#1681
Three Wheelin'
It sure shows what is happening at critical points and good intercooler function too. If you make successive runs, does the IC out temp come up much?I can cut and weld the coolant snouts. Stock, there was about 1/8" clearance between the belt and the hose. I thought that was too close. With your smaller pulley, there should be more clearance.
03-19-2008, 10:22 AM
#1683
Rennlist Member
I was shooting for 12.4:1 as set in the Sharktuner. I had already tuned the idle and cruise then enabled it only for WOT for tuning. I started from a stop and shot through the gears, letting the ST autotune when at WOT. 3 and 4th gear were really nice as the RPMS built gradually and at a perfect rate to allow the ST to tune each cell as the RPM gradually rose....as you can see, really slow in 4th. The stretch of road that Darien and i use has a fairly good incline so it loads up the engine, allows the RPM to build slowly and somewhat keeps the speed in check.....needless to say i was WELL into tripple digits. 
I must have done 10 runs up this long inclined stretch of deserted road we have.
Gotta love Nevada roads
I must have done 10 runs up this long inclined stretch of deserted road we have. Gotta love Nevada roads
Wow, that's very impressive Tony!
03-19-2008, 05:58 PM
#1685
Rennlist Member
I thought some of you might like to see the results of my cylinder head to manifold port matching after several hours with a dremel tool ! 
I had noticed that the manifold did not come close to matching the oval port design of the head. The injector notch itself is set too close to the edge of the manifold to do much, but I was able to blend it just a little.
The first pic shows a stock metal manifold gasket in place and the excess area involved with the round hole on the stock manifold.
I initally thought that I would Prussian Blue the manifold in order to highlight the excess, but when I thought about it, it was much easier to bolt a pair of metal gaskets in place on each side and use them as a template for the removal.
The widest part is about 1/8th of an inch, but as you can see, that area times 8 adds up to quite a bit of surface area. I also blended the turn ito the mouth of the port as much as I could.
This without a doubt will increase the flow and most likely will slightly reduce the boost. (As boost is a measure of resistance)
Regards,
Ken
I had noticed that the manifold did not come close to matching the oval port design of the head. The injector notch itself is set too close to the edge of the manifold to do much, but I was able to blend it just a little.
The first pic shows a stock metal manifold gasket in place and the excess area involved with the round hole on the stock manifold.
I initally thought that I would Prussian Blue the manifold in order to highlight the excess, but when I thought about it, it was much easier to bolt a pair of metal gaskets in place on each side and use them as a template for the removal.
The widest part is about 1/8th of an inch, but as you can see, that area times 8 adds up to quite a bit of surface area. I also blended the turn ito the mouth of the port as much as I could.
This without a doubt will increase the flow and most likely will slightly reduce the boost. (As boost is a measure of resistance)
Regards,
Ken
03-19-2008, 06:56 PM
#1686
Race Car
It's funny you mention reductions in boost when creating more free flow. I just swapped out my X-pipe for a set of factory cats, and oh boy is there a *huge* difference! I need to be in the boost *much* earlier in order to have the same kind of acceleration as before. I wouldn't be surprised if I just lost at least 50rwhp with the change.
Dan
'91 928GT S/C
'86 928S 5-spd w/LSD *sale pending*
Dan
'91 928GT S/C
'86 928S 5-spd w/LSD *sale pending*
03-21-2008, 12:36 PM
#1687
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what do you need to know.
this was taken just idling in the garage. The bar graphs in the upper right are your temps and are taken from the locations as labled. They are measured via K-type thermocouples fed into an Inovate motorsports 4 channel T-couple amplifier...this goes into the rest of a data loggin chain as you can see. I hit record and watch it all later. Those temps are accurate with in +-1'F, if not less. Its call kind of gee whiiz stuff, but i like that sort of thing....and its actually help with a few things. The numbers are much higher under boost. Ill get some video some day. I wish there was a way in windows not only to capture an image in a screen shot but also moving video. I have some base line runs i did a few weeks ago and i will post them when i get back from this trip. I'll set up the chart so it only shows temp for you.
this was taken just idling in the garage. The bar graphs in the upper right are your temps and are taken from the locations as labled. They are measured via K-type thermocouples fed into an Inovate motorsports 4 channel T-couple amplifier...this goes into the rest of a data loggin chain as you can see. I hit record and watch it all later. Those temps are accurate with in +-1'F, if not less. Its call kind of gee whiiz stuff, but i like that sort of thing....and its actually help with a few things. The numbers are much higher under boost. Ill get some video some day. I wish there was a way in windows not only to capture an image in a screen shot but also moving video. I have some base line runs i did a few weeks ago and i will post them when i get back from this trip. I'll set up the chart so it only shows temp for you.
Tony, how did you access your pre and post intercooler airflow, for the temp probes? I now have the TC-4 and am looking for probe access on an installed Andy Keel unit.
03-25-2008, 11:12 AM
#1688
snout pulley distance
I am putting on an early supermodel Jag/eaton m112. It has the original 3" stock pulley that I am changing to quick change pulley set. I have heard that the original set up is too short to line up with the other pulleys correctly. Could some one measure the lenght of their snout from where it bolts on the SC to the back of the pulley so I can make the hub the correct length. Thanks in advance.
03-25-2008, 12:13 PM
#1689
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When i had the set up apart after about 6 months for a check up i drilled a couple of small 1/8" holes to place the T-couples wires in to. I sealed the samll holes with Right stuff and made sure the probe ends didnt touch any metal or other surface....been 3 yrs and no issues. No with the Inovate TC4 i can log them. Hacker is about to do the same on his car and i think he is going to measure I/C collant temps as well.
04-10-2008, 01:37 AM
#1690
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https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...1&d=1205857337
DriveSystem1.jpg
https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...1&d=1205857337
DriveChanges1.jpg
https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...1&d=1205857337
DriveChanges2.jpg
https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...1&d=1205857337
DriveSystem2.JPG
Where did you get the lower pulley? Is it one of Murphs?
https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...1&d=1205857337
Did that snout support/tensioner start life as one of Andy's originals?
04-10-2008, 02:09 AM
#1692
Under the Lift
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I am putting on an early supermodel Jag/eaton m112. It has the original 3" stock pulley that I am changing to quick change pulley set. I have heard that the original set up is too short to line up with the other pulleys correctly. Could some one measure the lenght of their snout from where it bolts on the SC to the back of the pulley so I can make the hub the correct length. Thanks in advance.
Did you get this info? I posted it in another thread previously but just saw your post here.
04-10-2008, 12:27 PM
#1694
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There are apparently 2 varieties. They are identified by whether the mounting bolt has a longitudinal hole through it. Mine does not. Mine is simply a solid allen-headed bolt.
04-11-2008, 02:36 AM
#1695
Three Wheelin'
Where did you get the lower pulley? Is it one of Murphs?
https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...1&d=1205857337
Did that snout support/tensioner start life as one of Andy's originals?
https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...1&d=1205857337
Did that snout support/tensioner start life as one of Andy's originals?
The lower pully is from Andy. The snout support is Andy's as well as the basic tensioner support. That's the plate that bolts to the water pump housing. I changed the actual tensioner operation around so the tensioner goes on the loos side of the belt and theadjusting screw is on the front rather than the back, and added the extra idler pulley below the SC pulley. It's Andy's basic stuff, but nothing much the same. The front drive pulley is a neat idea and one I'll copy if I ever install one of these again. The drive pulley is bolted to the A/C pulley and has a sort of hub on the back side to space it out enough so the S/C belt clears the A/C belt. The normal pulley stack that fits on the front is still there and is unchanged, except.... The original power steering pump pulley fits inside the hub of the SC pulley and you don't even see it. The next pulley out is the air pump pulley, but it now drives the power steering pump. The power steering pump has a spacer on teh PS pump hub to space out its pulley so that pulley now aligns with the old air pump drive pulley (now new power steering drive pulley). It all fits together quite well with no interference. The SC drive is back next to the A/C pulley which is good in two ways. One, is that it's right at the crankshaft hub and bearing so minimal extra stress as would happen from having the SC drive belt more toward the front. The other thing is that the supercharger snout can be shorter, or SC located more rearward, so the SC pulley so isn't so close to the underside of the hood.
The drive system appears to work well. No belt slipping and it runs true once I flattened the idler pulley. The pulley, as it came, was very slightly cone shaped. The diameter at the front was about 0.005" smaller than the diameter at the rear. That caused the belt to creep forward on the idler pulley. I turned the pulley flat and no more belt creep. I finished tuning the car yesterday and had no drive system disasters other than the crank bolt coming loose during dyno tuning. I found out that the bolt needs to be put in with red Loktite and torqued in excess of the normal spec value to 250 lb ft. No bolt trouble after that.
Here are some pics of the drive pulley arrangement.
Oops. For some unknown reason, I cannot insert a picture.
Louie