The Twin Screw Thread
#1771
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Dave,
That is truely a work of mechinist art. We have kicked that idea around and I think I haver found some standoffs that might work. Thanks for the help.
Bill,
I will add the extra fitting. I reworked Andy's oil filler/ vent and have increased the cross section by 400% and have added baffles. Initailly I an going run it straight thru to prevent any knock and see how much oil will get ( read: when my wife wants to know what's leaking all over the driveway).Then I will look at an oil separator like the Provent or catch can. I am not going to track this car so it will be interesting to see what happens.
I still am not sure about the actual Throttle cable routing. I know it must go around a pulley back near the fire wall but do I need to strip the cable sheath off. Do you or anyone else have pictures?
Thanks again to all, Ralph
That is truely a work of mechinist art. We have kicked that idea around and I think I haver found some standoffs that might work. Thanks for the help.
Bill,
I will add the extra fitting. I reworked Andy's oil filler/ vent and have increased the cross section by 400% and have added baffles. Initailly I an going run it straight thru to prevent any knock and see how much oil will get ( read: when my wife wants to know what's leaking all over the driveway).Then I will look at an oil separator like the Provent or catch can. I am not going to track this car so it will be interesting to see what happens.
I still am not sure about the actual Throttle cable routing. I know it must go around a pulley back near the fire wall but do I need to strip the cable sheath off. Do you or anyone else have pictures?
Thanks again to all, Ralph
#1772
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
WE ARE SCed!!!!. Thanks to all who help: Bill, Tony, Stan, Erik, Fred, Scott, Ken, Rick, Shane, Darien, Dave, John and the list go on. Could not have done it without you.
The car (88 stick) runs like a dream. The idle is smoother than stock. It is faster, but not as fast as I would like. I was sent the wrong SC pulley which only makes about 3 lbs of boost (3” pulley at 5000 ft altitude). New pulleys ordered to give me 6-8 lbs.
During the process we made several changes (hopefully improvements). WARNING: I HAVE NEVER DOWNLOADED PHOTOS BEFORE.
First, we really stiffened up the bottom plate making it 3/16”thick. We then added spacers on all the through bolts and perimeter screws to reduce flexing and possible vacuum leaks. Also, made very nice aluminum injector cups.
plate_thickness_small_copy2.jpg
lower_plate_injector_cup.jpg
The next issue was the oil filler/ vent issue. Started by changing everything to ¾” hose and fittings. This gives a 400% bigger cross section than Andy’s. Consequently, the velocity of the vented air should be in the range of 25% which should pick up and carry a lot less oil. I then used Carl Fausett’s oil baffle. I cut the outside down to exactly fit inside the engine oil filler port.
baffle_1_copy1.jpg
baffle_assembly_small_copy2.jpg
baffle_2_copy1.jpg
I then matted it to Andy’s original cover with side plates to reduce splash.
I then assembled it all together. Note: Mine is not IC so my routing was very simple. I vented to atmosphere and so far I have gotten no leaked oil.
oil_filler_copy1.jpg
Lastly, we used the stock gasket. I had some precision spacer machined to keep it from over compressing. We used a very slight amount of “Right Stuff.” on the outside side where contact gets a little thin. Don’t know if this is necessary. Also, instead of bolts I used longer studs. They make assembly easier and there is less chance of striping the engine threads. Torqued nuts to factory spec.
stud_and_spacer.jpg
Like I said everything is working fine now. Hopefully, I can get some additional boost soon and we can really test these ideas.
Thanks again to all.
Ralph
The car (88 stick) runs like a dream. The idle is smoother than stock. It is faster, but not as fast as I would like. I was sent the wrong SC pulley which only makes about 3 lbs of boost (3” pulley at 5000 ft altitude). New pulleys ordered to give me 6-8 lbs.
During the process we made several changes (hopefully improvements). WARNING: I HAVE NEVER DOWNLOADED PHOTOS BEFORE.
First, we really stiffened up the bottom plate making it 3/16”thick. We then added spacers on all the through bolts and perimeter screws to reduce flexing and possible vacuum leaks. Also, made very nice aluminum injector cups.
plate_thickness_small_copy2.jpg
lower_plate_injector_cup.jpg
The next issue was the oil filler/ vent issue. Started by changing everything to ¾” hose and fittings. This gives a 400% bigger cross section than Andy’s. Consequently, the velocity of the vented air should be in the range of 25% which should pick up and carry a lot less oil. I then used Carl Fausett’s oil baffle. I cut the outside down to exactly fit inside the engine oil filler port.
baffle_1_copy1.jpg
baffle_assembly_small_copy2.jpg
baffle_2_copy1.jpg
I then matted it to Andy’s original cover with side plates to reduce splash.
I then assembled it all together. Note: Mine is not IC so my routing was very simple. I vented to atmosphere and so far I have gotten no leaked oil.
oil_filler_copy1.jpg
Lastly, we used the stock gasket. I had some precision spacer machined to keep it from over compressing. We used a very slight amount of “Right Stuff.” on the outside side where contact gets a little thin. Don’t know if this is necessary. Also, instead of bolts I used longer studs. They make assembly easier and there is less chance of striping the engine threads. Torqued nuts to factory spec.
stud_and_spacer.jpg
Like I said everything is working fine now. Hopefully, I can get some additional boost soon and we can really test these ideas.
Thanks again to all.
Ralph
#1774
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
WE ARE SCed!!!!. Thanks to all who help: Bill, Tony, Stan, Erik, Fred, Scott, Ken, Rick, Shane, Darien, Dave, John and the list go on. Could not have done it without you.
The car (88 stick) runs like a dream. The idle is smoother than stock. It is faster, but not as fast as I would like. I was sent the wrong SC pulley which only makes about 3 lbs of boost (3” pulley at 5000 ft altitude). New pulleys ordered to give me 6-8 lbs.
During the process we made several changes (hopefully improvements). WARNING: I HAVE NEVER DOWNLOADED PHOTOS BEFORE.
First, we really stiffened up the bottom plate making it 3/16”thick. We then added spacers on all the through bolts and perimeter screws to reduce flexing and possible vacuum leaks. Also, made very nice aluminum injector cups.
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/plate_thickness_small_copy3.jpg)
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/baffle_1_copy2.jpg)
The next issue was the oil filler/ vent issue. Started by changing everything to ¾” hose and fittings. This gives a 400% bigger cross section than Andy’s. Consequently, the velocity of the vented air should be in the range of 25% which should pick up and carry a lot less oil. I then used Carl Fausett’s oil baffle. I cut the outside down to exactly fit inside the engine oil filler port.
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/baffle_1_copy2.jpg)
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/baffle_2_copy2.jpg)
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/baffle_assembly_small_copy3.jpg)
I then matted it to Andy’s original cover with side plates to reduce splash.
I then assembled it all together. Note: Mine is not IC so my routing was very simple. I vented to atmosphere and so far I have gotten no leaked oil.
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/oil_filler_copy2.jpg)
Lastly, we used the stock gasket. I had some precision spacer machined to keep it from over compressing. We used a very slight amount of “Right Stuff.” on the outside side where contact gets a little thin. Don’t know if this is necessary. Also, instead of bolts I used longer studs. They make assembly easier and there is less chance of striping the engine threads. Torqued nuts to factory spec.
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/stud_and_spacer_copy1.jpg)
Like I said everything is working fine now. Hopefully, I can get some additional boost soon and we can really test these ideas.
Thanks again to all.
Ralph
The car (88 stick) runs like a dream. The idle is smoother than stock. It is faster, but not as fast as I would like. I was sent the wrong SC pulley which only makes about 3 lbs of boost (3” pulley at 5000 ft altitude). New pulleys ordered to give me 6-8 lbs.
During the process we made several changes (hopefully improvements). WARNING: I HAVE NEVER DOWNLOADED PHOTOS BEFORE.
First, we really stiffened up the bottom plate making it 3/16”thick. We then added spacers on all the through bolts and perimeter screws to reduce flexing and possible vacuum leaks. Also, made very nice aluminum injector cups.
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/plate_thickness_small_copy3.jpg)
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/baffle_1_copy2.jpg)
The next issue was the oil filler/ vent issue. Started by changing everything to ¾” hose and fittings. This gives a 400% bigger cross section than Andy’s. Consequently, the velocity of the vented air should be in the range of 25% which should pick up and carry a lot less oil. I then used Carl Fausett’s oil baffle. I cut the outside down to exactly fit inside the engine oil filler port.
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/baffle_1_copy2.jpg)
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/baffle_2_copy2.jpg)
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/baffle_assembly_small_copy3.jpg)
I then matted it to Andy’s original cover with side plates to reduce splash.
I then assembled it all together. Note: Mine is not IC so my routing was very simple. I vented to atmosphere and so far I have gotten no leaked oil.
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/oil_filler_copy2.jpg)
Lastly, we used the stock gasket. I had some precision spacer machined to keep it from over compressing. We used a very slight amount of “Right Stuff.” on the outside side where contact gets a little thin. Don’t know if this is necessary. Also, instead of bolts I used longer studs. They make assembly easier and there is less chance of striping the engine threads. Torqued nuts to factory spec.
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/stud_and_spacer_copy1.jpg)
Like I said everything is working fine now. Hopefully, I can get some additional boost soon and we can really test these ideas.
Thanks again to all.
Ralph
Last edited by Ralph Newman; 07-09-2008 at 01:39 PM. Reason: no pictures
#1775
Inventor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
***POST 5000!***
Surround the picture link with [img]...[/img] instead of [url]...[/u rl]
You can edit/delete your posts by clicking on the
button in the lower right of the post.
Good idea using Carl's baffle up in there.
Surround the picture link with [img]...[/img] instead of [url]...[/u rl]
You can edit/delete your posts by clicking on the
![](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/buttons/edit.gif)
Good idea using Carl's baffle up in there.
Last edited by PorKen; 07-09-2008 at 01:48 PM.
#1779
Under the Lift
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm in the midst of putting Supermodel SC back on, this time with the inter-cooler setup and a bit more boost. For the inter-cooler, I'm going to try a high flow pump, small motorcycle radiator with its own fan (which I will wire on full-time with ignition) and no extra reservoir to see if it could be effective. I guess I should not expect it to be very effective as everyone else uses giant heat exchangers and large reservoirs, probably for good reason.
I started to make manifold bottom spacers for the stock gasket and got a bit confused. DR and Ralph used 2/3rds of the gasket height. I looked at the stock system I just pulled off and it looks like the stock spacer length would produce almost no compression.
What height did you guys use for the stock gasket spacers? DR, yours appear to be recessed into the manifold base a bit. What is the exposed height?
I started to make manifold bottom spacers for the stock gasket and got a bit confused. DR and Ralph used 2/3rds of the gasket height. I looked at the stock system I just pulled off and it looks like the stock spacer length would produce almost no compression.
What height did you guys use for the stock gasket spacers? DR, yours appear to be recessed into the manifold base a bit. What is the exposed height?
Last edited by Bill Ball; 08-21-2008 at 07:55 PM.
#1780
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I made a gasket from gasket material about 1mm thick. I also used (sparingly) "The Right Stuff" to seal it. I think A 944S2 gasket would work too. I didn't want the SC to be spaced up any higher than necessary. Tight clearance at the front between hood and pulley.
I'm in the midst of putting Supermodel SC back on, this time with the inter-cooler setup and a bit more boost. For teh inter-cooler, I'm going to try a high flow pump, small motorcycle radiator with its own fan (which I will wire on full-time with ignition) and no extra reservoir to see if it could be effective. I guess I should not expect it to be very effective as everyone else uses giant heat exchangers and large reservoirs, probably for good reason.
I started to make manifold bottom spacers for the stock gasket and got a bit confused. DR and Ralph used 2/3rds of the gasket height. I looked at the stock system I just pulled off and it looks like the stock spacer length would produce almost no compression.
What height did you guys use for the stock gasket spacers? DR, yours appear to be recessed into the manifold base a bit. What is the exposed height?
I started to make manifold bottom spacers for the stock gasket and got a bit confused. DR and Ralph used 2/3rds of the gasket height. I looked at the stock system I just pulled off and it looks like the stock spacer length would produce almost no compression.
What height did you guys use for the stock gasket spacers? DR, yours appear to be recessed into the manifold base a bit. What is the exposed height?
#1781
Under the Lift
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks, Louie. I may just go with Andy's orginal green linoleum-looking gasket material. I already have a divot in the hood foam.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#1782
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You have to judge, but I didn't use that because there is no resilience to it. It's very hard and wouldn't conform to surface irregularities.
#1784
Administrator - "Tyson"
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
#1785
Under the Lift
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hmmm... I do have some Mr. Gasket material that is 1.6mm. The green "linoelum" is 3mm. Regardless, I'm going to put some Right stuff on the top of the gasket and some Hylomar on the bottom (easier cleanup).