Project V8- VT951's Bitchin' Camaro
02-19-2010 | 02:36 PM
#137
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 208
Likes: 0
From: Cameron Park, CA
FYI, just about everything you need for the V8 conversion you can pick up here http://www.944v8s.com/Products.html
02-19-2010 | 02:55 PM
#138
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 208
Likes: 0
From: Cameron Park, CA
02-19-2010 | 02:57 PM
#139
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
From: South Carolina
Nice job Dan.
(Hope you have a sense of humor BTW, I am a joker @ times...)
Alan, your Firewall Plate is here...
You guys are doing what should be done with every 944 V8 conversion. Make it fit with no spacers, bump-steer kit, or even extensive sheet metal work.
I too have learned something valuable lately.
I'm right behind ya, reconfiguring mounts and set-back plates.
The current "Kit" may need a few changes, but it is being worked on diligently.
Nice set of headers, Alan.
Rock on gentleman.
Looks great.
(Hope you have a sense of humor BTW, I am a joker @ times...)
Alan, your Firewall Plate is here...
You guys are doing what should be done with every 944 V8 conversion. Make it fit with no spacers, bump-steer kit, or even extensive sheet metal work.
I too have learned something valuable lately.
I'm right behind ya, reconfiguring mounts and set-back plates.
The current "Kit" may need a few changes, but it is being worked on diligently.
Nice set of headers, Alan.
Rock on gentleman.
Looks great.
02-20-2010 | 10:13 AM
#142
Rennlist Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,083
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati
The upright tube is .090" wall. I was looking for .125", but this was the closest they had at the time and seemed thick enough.
02-20-2010 | 10:16 AM
#143
Rennlist Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,083
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati
I got the oil pan in this thread from Champ Pans (www.champpans.com). A couple months ago, he still had a few left. Don't know if he plans to make any more after those sell.
02-20-2010 | 10:22 AM
#144
Rennlist Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,083
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati
Nah, you're just using the wrong tools. You need a bigger welder. Wouldn't hurt to have a hole saw with an angle jig. I think they look pretty good, but the main problem is the weld penetration.
Apparently, welding two different thickness metals together isn't easy. The top and bottom pieces are about .25" wall/thick and the upright tube is only .090". So, the thinner stuff gets hot faster and you can't get the thicker stuff hot enough to get good penetration. Supposedly its possible to direct more heat to one side of the weld, so that could help.
Apparently, welding two different thickness metals together isn't easy. The top and bottom pieces are about .25" wall/thick and the upright tube is only .090". So, the thinner stuff gets hot faster and you can't get the thicker stuff hot enough to get good penetration. Supposedly its possible to direct more heat to one side of the weld, so that could help.
02-20-2010 | 10:29 AM
#145
Rennlist Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,083
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati
Headers!
Got my Street & Performance headers yesterday. They are beautifully made. Amazing what you can get for $500 in Chevyland.
These have 3" collectors and v-band clamps. Will need some modifications on the driver side to clear the steering shaft.
These have 3" collectors and v-band clamps. Will need some modifications on the driver side to clear the steering shaft.
02-20-2010 | 10:42 AM
#146
Rennlist Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,083
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati
Alan,
3/4" will help (equals roughly a 6:1 pedal ratio), but 1.1" will yield a 7.6:1 pedal ratio, if you can squeeze it in on that pedal.
Even more leverage, and Tilton "claims" ~90 lbs. @ the pedal on a 7.6:1 ratio (with the 72-610 balance bar and correct master cylinders).
Also, move the master cylinder up to re-align the pushrod in the MC piston. On the 7.6:1 ratio, the top of the center MC mounting hole sits just at the top edge of the oval cutout on the firewall. This will allow use of a flat adapter plate. Take the cereal bowl angle out, cut a flat plate, relocate the pushrod and MC upwards, and you'll get all that can be squeezed out of the manual brakes.
(But, still not power assisted...)
You may have heard all this already, but I thought I'd throw it out there.
Just a heads up on the firewall plate...
Don't curse me, but it's gonna be an all-day job.
May as well remove that clutch master...
Looks good so far...
Did you mod your harness, or buy one?
Greg
3/4" will help (equals roughly a 6:1 pedal ratio), but 1.1" will yield a 7.6:1 pedal ratio, if you can squeeze it in on that pedal.
Even more leverage, and Tilton "claims" ~90 lbs. @ the pedal on a 7.6:1 ratio (with the 72-610 balance bar and correct master cylinders).
Also, move the master cylinder up to re-align the pushrod in the MC piston. On the 7.6:1 ratio, the top of the center MC mounting hole sits just at the top edge of the oval cutout on the firewall. This will allow use of a flat adapter plate. Take the cereal bowl angle out, cut a flat plate, relocate the pushrod and MC upwards, and you'll get all that can be squeezed out of the manual brakes.
(But, still not power assisted...)
You may have heard all this already, but I thought I'd throw it out there.
Just a heads up on the firewall plate...
Don't curse me, but it's gonna be an all-day job.
May as well remove that clutch master...
Looks good so far...
Did you mod your harness, or buy one?
Greg
Greg,
Sorry I totally missed your post (a week ago now). No problem on the firewall plate. I'd rather do it now than have to rip all this stuff out later when it cracks.
I bought an f-body harness and had it modified by Jim's Performance in MD. He removed all unnecessary wires, ran it through the 944 firewall boot, and attached a 2000 ECU connector (my harness was from a '98).
02-20-2010 | 10:49 AM
#147
Rennlist Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 12,008
Likes: 95
From: Hyde Park, NY
Apparently, welding two different thickness metals together isn't easy. The top and bottom pieces are about .25" wall/thick and the upright tube is only .090". So, the thinner stuff gets hot faster and you can't get the thicker stuff hot enough to get good penetration. Supposedly its possible to direct more heat to one side of the weld, so that could help.
02-20-2010 | 10:58 AM
#148
Rennlist Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,083
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati
Correct, that's parts cost. I would imagine that if you paid someone to do the swap for you, the number could easily be doubled.
02-20-2010 | 12:08 PM
#150
Rennlist Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,083
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati