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Hang on... negative to bellhousing?
Must be a late car thing?
My car has the 8" battery to chassis cable, but then another, separate 8-10" exposed braid ground from firewall to BH.
errr.. rather, it goes to the block near bellhousing if I recall correct. I'll be digging around inside the engine bay today, I'll have to take another look.
Installed the Rennbay SS hatch pins and mounts on my 931 this afternoon. Had to dremel out the only944 pin seats a bit to get the larger heads of the new pins to seat. I no longer have a rattling hatch that pops open over manhole covers!
Great Stuff thanks ! I have managed to find an original copy of the installation instructions in german and plenty of picures. One of the two BBS kits I have was removed from a 924 and the owner who sold me the bodykit was great taking and sending me lots of pictures . I have actually put together a folder with photos , instructions etc for the bodykit like 30 pages long now. It was a 1987/1988 Porsche Exclusiv option as my 924S is a 88 model and will probably put it on at some point just need to make that decision. I think the 924 looks gorgeous with the bodykit, a slim version of the 944
Today I made new Grounds, new master power, installed the new 3.5# battery, made new exciter wire to the dash/bulb, ran it and mounted the bulb in my dash, mounted the new race seat, reinstalled the driver’s doot, and got the wiring inside the car all tidied up. What’s left now is replacing the fuel rail/injectors/FPR/J-hose, adding new injector harness and ref. Sensor wires (all from Lindsey Racing), adding a 2 layer tear-off to the windshield and changing all the fluids. VIR in 2 weeks! She’s finally “sub” 2300#.
I learned a lot this off-season. You can run the whole car on 7 wires from the DME and then auxiliary circuits for what you need. In my case, I’ve got a switch for the defrost strips on the windshield, two fan switches (dual 25amp fuses), aim dash circuit (10 amp), rain light circuit (5Amp), windshield wiper circuit (30amp), coolsuit box (10Amp), brakelight (7.5amp), and fuel pump (15Amp). I run the car on a master on/off, push button start, ignition on toggle, Fuel pump toggle, coolsuit toggle, wiper toggle, rainlight toggle and the three switches previously mentioned for fans/defrost.
I think the single biggest improvement you can make to this car is getting rid of the 35 year old wiring. Every wire I removed had been cooked or showed evidence of over heating.
Couple of days ago did an Oil / filters/ brake fluid changes at Porsche Centre Athens. Used the Porsche Classic Motor Oil for the 924S 10w50 (from Mobil 1 15w40), noticed a slightly less noise coming from the engine , mind you this might be as well because new belts were installed not that long ago. Also used the Porsche Classic brake fluid. Best think them empty oil cans ( 6 in total) , they look fantastic !!!
errr.. rather, it goes to the block near bellhousing if I recall correct. I'll be digging around inside the engine bay today, I'll have to take another look.
And best of luck to those who try to reattach the ground to the block (by the bellhousing) after cleaning it.
Replaced front strut inserts with Koni 8641-1414Sport inserts on my 86 944 turbo, and replaced lots of little parts. I used Paragon Products' refurbished strut mount kit and bearings. The original struts and housings were Konis and I realized I had to cut them more than the semi-official instructions said about the Boge/Sachs housings, so that took some realizing and some figuring out but I got it. I became determined to proceed only after reading a post by Ian (of Paragon Products) in a thread stating that he was sure this method works with Koni housings.
The cornering is already hugely improved. The right strut was dead!
For anyone reading this in the future, you must do your own measurements but my koni housings needed to be cut 0.5 mm below the "MADE BY KONI-HOLLAND" line (when the unit is oriented with the top up). Not sure if they stamp them all in the same place. FYI this is for the yellow ones, part #s 951 343 031 06 and 951 343 032 06.
As many of you know, the early U.S. cars don't possess a tow hook (eye) location. I've been looking around for some time at possible solutions that can easily be removed (for purist/factory accuracy) and found these tow eyes. They are designed for later cars that have the 14mm lower shock bolt so I had the local machine shop make inserts to remove any slack as the early cars use 12mm bolts. Also, additional bolt length is needed to accommodate needed spacers - 70mm to 90mm. This was also an opportune time to order a tow strap "V" and tow bed securing strap kit (just in case).
05-19-2020 | 12:51 PM
