3.2 secret opps....This is NOT a technical thread about chips(2guys1DP)
#138
Temprarily Banned per IB
Hey Rusnak,
My sentiments exactly.
Hey, I saw your pic. 13.4 at idle seems rich, I believe you want to achieve 14.7 on the LM1 at idle with O2 Sensor unplugged. Maybe re-read the O2 Sensor after adjustment on the AFM? After that you might want to increase your base idle to 880RPMs.
I am jealous I wish I had the RPM reader. Where and how much? Reading off tach is so iffy.
If you are trully too lean, at night. get on the freeway when it is safe to see if at WOT you see smoke of unburnt fuel coming out the exhaust. I know it is not scientific but when I was too lean, I noticed it plus knocking. Once I richened her up to proper ratio no more smoke.
My sentiments exactly.
Hey, I saw your pic. 13.4 at idle seems rich, I believe you want to achieve 14.7 on the LM1 at idle with O2 Sensor unplugged. Maybe re-read the O2 Sensor after adjustment on the AFM? After that you might want to increase your base idle to 880RPMs.
I am jealous I wish I had the RPM reader. Where and how much? Reading off tach is so iffy.
If you are trully too lean, at night. get on the freeway when it is safe to see if at WOT you see smoke of unburnt fuel coming out the exhaust. I know it is not scientific but when I was too lean, I noticed it plus knocking. Once I richened her up to proper ratio no more smoke.
Anything below 13.8:1 left my plugs a little dark, and exhaust smelled a little fat. At 14.2 I had clean plugs, and a nice crisp CO smell with smooth idle, where as going up to 14.7:1 gave me white plugs, off-idle hesitation, and near odorless exhaust. But a pungent exhaust when the cat was on it.
Just my observations...
Regards,
Russell
#139
Hey Rusnak,
I would go with the expert and try 14.2 and see how she feels.
I was just going by the Bentley Manual page 200-7 but I have to agree the actually real world results are more accurate in my opinion.
I would go with the expert and try 14.2 and see how she feels.
I was just going by the Bentley Manual page 200-7 but I have to agree the actually real world results are more accurate in my opinion.
#140
Addict
Thread Starter
Well, rnln sorry about this but I gotta stand you up. An order missed the truck and I have till 5:00 to make the customer happy. See you guys later................................
#141
Temprarily Banned per IB
I did design a tuning tool that allows you to tune the car live, while it's running. When I first came out with the 911MAX chips people were taken aback by how quickly I did it. I could do it quickly because of the superior tuning tools I designed. I built these things for me, and sell them to others who have the same need.
Maxtune is a program that runs on your laptop, which gives you full access to the fuel and timing maps, which are stored in an Eprom emulator, which in turn is plugged into the DME chip socket. It too can hold up to 8 different images, and has a LED lit remote switch selector. But the beauty of the system is the tuning capability, you tune the car live, on the dyno, or driving around. (with a driver of course!) Here's a couple of screen shots of the stock 3.2L fuel and timing maps.
Regards,
Russell
#142
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
WOW! RB, you have some nice products! And to think, a few days ago I didn't even know about your company. I need to read up on it tonight.
Draco, and RB, thanks for the input! I'll adjust to 14.2 at idle w the O2 sensor disconnected. I just got a second bung welded into the cat bypass, so now I can also do a check with the O2 enabled for comparison.
Draco, and RB, thanks for the input! I'll adjust to 14.2 at idle w the O2 sensor disconnected. I just got a second bung welded into the cat bypass, so now I can also do a check with the O2 enabled for comparison.
#143
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
RB, I thought of a question that I've always wanted to ask:
I drive my '84 911 a lot between the coast and the mountains. The use is mainly for touring and weekend drives. I can't always get Chevron gas, and sometimes have to buy gas at sketchy looking gas stations. Also, in the summer it can get up to 112F to 115F and in the winter it can get as low as 32F. So, for a combination of street, highway, high and low altitude driving, in hot and cold temps, can I still use a performance chip (Max HP for example)? Is there enough margin left in there for safety? How exactly are performance gains achieved? Timing? AF ratio?
I drive my '84 911 a lot between the coast and the mountains. The use is mainly for touring and weekend drives. I can't always get Chevron gas, and sometimes have to buy gas at sketchy looking gas stations. Also, in the summer it can get up to 112F to 115F and in the winter it can get as low as 32F. So, for a combination of street, highway, high and low altitude driving, in hot and cold temps, can I still use a performance chip (Max HP for example)? Is there enough margin left in there for safety? How exactly are performance gains achieved? Timing? AF ratio?
#144
Temprarily Banned per IB
RB, I thought of a question that I've always wanted to ask:
I drive my '84 911 a lot between the coast and the mountains. The use is mainly for touring and weekend drives. I can't always get Chevron gas, and sometimes have to buy gas at sketchy looking gas stations. Also, in the summer it can get up to 112F to 115F and in the winter it can get as low as 32F. So, for a combination of street, highway, high and low altitude driving, in hot and cold temps, can I still use a performance chip (Max HP for example)? Is there enough margin left in there for safety? How exactly are performance gains achieved? Timing? AF ratio?
I drive my '84 911 a lot between the coast and the mountains. The use is mainly for touring and weekend drives. I can't always get Chevron gas, and sometimes have to buy gas at sketchy looking gas stations. Also, in the summer it can get up to 112F to 115F and in the winter it can get as low as 32F. So, for a combination of street, highway, high and low altitude driving, in hot and cold temps, can I still use a performance chip (Max HP for example)? Is there enough margin left in there for safety? How exactly are performance gains achieved? Timing? AF ratio?
More power is had from tuning the timing and AFR, under varying conditions. I would take my car to the dyno several days in a row, every time going back to the original tune to start with, and going through the exact same procedures. What this netted me was a best 'all around' tune, which left a safety margin, and alloted for different environmental conditions. Likewise I would tune on the street, and do so again under varying climate conditions. Scott, (stay6) who started the other thread entitled 'New chip install' has an 84 as well.
The 'tuning' procedure also varies from car to car. On a normally aspirated 944 for instance, the basic procedure is tune the fuel for all rpm ranges, then throw timing advance at it until it stops making power, then come back a tiny bit for safety margin. Seldom a need to go back and re-tune the AFR. On the turbo cars, it's a long cumbersome dance back and forth between timing and fuel. With the 3.2L 911 the margin for timing advance is a very small window in comparison to other cars, so not a lot of head way to be had there, however minute fueling changes netted susbstantial differences. Bottom line, I have to say that in tuning these cars I found the AFR to be more of a factor in overall performance. I actually got to the point where I didn't have to look at my LM-1, I could tell what the AFR was by the sound. If one is just a little fat I can hear it, if she's running perfect, the rev up is smooth and clean and it has a sharp sound to it. And it smells good too...
Regards,
Russell
#146
Temprarily Banned per IB
#147
Russell Berry
MAXhpkit -- Maximum Performance Guaranteed
You need to promote this over on the "Dark Side", as most over there think
that there's a supreme "God's Gift to Tuning" (who now believes it too).
MAXhpkit -- Maximum Performance Guaranteed
You need to promote this over on the "Dark Side", as most over there think
that there's a supreme "God's Gift to Tuning" (who now believes it too).
#148
Addict
Thread Starter
RB, I thought of a question that I've always wanted to ask:
I drive my '84 911 a lot between the coast and the mountains. The use is mainly for touring and weekend drives. I can't always get Chevron gas, and sometimes have to buy gas at sketchy looking gas stations. Also, in the summer it can get up to 112F to 115F and in the winter it can get as low as 32F. So, for a combination of street, highway, high and low altitude driving, in hot and cold temps, can I still use a performance chip (Max HP for example)? Is there enough margin left in there for safety? How exactly are performance gains achieved? Timing? AF ratio?
I drive my '84 911 a lot between the coast and the mountains. The use is mainly for touring and weekend drives. I can't always get Chevron gas, and sometimes have to buy gas at sketchy looking gas stations. Also, in the summer it can get up to 112F to 115F and in the winter it can get as low as 32F. So, for a combination of street, highway, high and low altitude driving, in hot and cold temps, can I still use a performance chip (Max HP for example)? Is there enough margin left in there for safety? How exactly are performance gains achieved? Timing? AF ratio?
#150
Rennlist Member
Hmmm, I'm kinda interested in the multi-chip setup. That would allow me to run a stock map on longer drives where my 100/91 brew may be a problem and I have to run straight 91 for some reason.
This will be on my "interest list" after I get through this next round of suspension improvements and decide on whether I'm going forward on a sailboat.
This will be on my "interest list" after I get through this next round of suspension improvements and decide on whether I'm going forward on a sailboat.