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I still have some more reading and research to do, but just to confirm my questions...Is this just for the PSE valves, or are there other valves that are in operation independently from the PSE (if one were to swap exhausts).
Pardon my ignorance on this thread, I'm all for some extra noise and grunt! I saw someone earlier mention replacing the OAP pipes and exhaust and not needing CG (I think it was metalone).
There are dozens of opinions and configurations for the exhaust on the 718 4.0l, so there is no definitive position on the need or lack thereof when it comes to controlling the PSE valves which the Cargraphic valve controller is designed to do... You have to decide if you want/need the extra level of control that the CG unit provides, there people on both sides of this story.
IMHO, I would not want to be without the extra control this unit provides, the flexibility to have the exhaust note just the way I want it, when I want, it is the value it brings. YMMV!
There are dozens of opinions and configurations for the exhaust on the 718 4.0l, so there is no definitive position on the need or lack thereof when it comes to controlling the PSE valves which the Cargraphic valve controller is designed to do... You have to decide if you want/need the extra level of control that the CG unit provides, there people on both sides of this story.
IMHO, I would not want to be without the extra control this unit provides, the flexibility to have the exhaust note just the way I want it, when I want, it is the value it brings. YMMV!
Awesome, thank you! I too would like the extra control and I can see a lot of environmental changes deciding when and how I'd like to have the valves controlled as well. I just wanted to make sure that if I installed a JCR and Akra pipes for instance if the CG Valves would still be a need, or if they would be negated (I believe this to be a moot point then).
Awesome, thank you! I too would like the extra control and I can see a lot of environmental changes deciding when and how I'd like to have the valves controlled as well. I just wanted to make sure that if I installed a JCR and Akra pipes for instance if the CG Valves would still be a need, or if they would be negated (I believe this to be a moot point then).
Well, just my opinion, but as chance has it I have the CG valve controller connected with Akra link-pipes and a JCR Silenced Valved Race Pipe, this is the basis for my comment above...
Apologize in advanced if this has been addressed in this thread but...
if you press the “lock” button on the controller, that returns the function of the valves to the car? So valves will open and close as the car wishes?
(This is for the 2-mode controller unit)
Apologize in advanced if this has been addressed in this thread but...
if you press the “lock” button on the controller, that returns the function of the valves to the car? So valves will open and close as the car wishes?
(This is for the 2-mode controller unit)
Apologize in advanced if this has been addressed in this thread but...
if you press the “lock” button on the controller, that returns the function of the valves to the car? So valves will open and close as the car wishes?
(This is for the 2-mode controller unit)
thanks
Carraphic valve control units save and restore the last mode when the vehicle is started.
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Anyway it would be very usefull just to try to replicate this sequence at IDLE and comment if it behaved differently (you can hear the valve mechanism acting in the video) vid
Just in case someone face this same issue, Cargraphic gave me a procedure to set the correct start mode of the valve control unit as it might get misadjusted.
Sadly I couldn't try it because I no longer have it, but here is anyway:
Start the engine
Switch off PSE button – PSE LED off (valves closed)
Press button “1” on the remote control at least 5 times in succession until the valves start to open and close by themselves several times.
If you don't have any issues better don't try this, and if you have doubts contact Cargraphic directly for support
After a few months of hibernation I'm about to get my GT4 out of storage. One of the first thing I'll do is install my valve controller. I've found a few videos showing how to access the engine bay on the Spyder but are there any videos out there for the GT4?
I did see dnimi123's post some time ago with a few pictures which will be helpful.
After a few months of hibernation I'm about to get my GT4 out of storage. One of the first thing I'll do is install my valve controller. I've found a few videos showing how to access the engine bay on the Spyder but are there any videos out there for the GT4?
I did see dnimi123's post some time ago with a few pictures which will be helpful.
Follow this thread, the linked thread within it and watch this YouTube video and you will be good to go. Just take your time with the trim pieces. Also make sure you have a T30 Allen key (in addition to the other required tools) as two engine cover bolts are in a position that makes them impossible to get with a screwdriver.
I also just installed the Cargraphic valve controller and this thread was very helpful. Thanks.
Connecting the plug was the biggest pita for me too. I think it really depends on how big your hands are because the space is tight.
Even with removing some of the vacuum lines it took me a while to figure out how to best get to it.
The one suggestion I would add is to sharpie the location of the engine cover screws before you take them off.
They seemed to be torqued pretty specifically and that will make it easy to get them exact again when you close it up.
The controller works great. I was ok with the valves always open but this is a great option to easily revert the car back to stock valve operation when needed.
I also just installed the Cargraphic valve controller and this thread was very helpful. Thanks.
Connecting the plug was the biggest pita for me too. I think it really depends on how big your hands are because the space is tight.
Even with removing some of the vacuum lines it took me a while to figure out how to best get to it.
The one suggestion I would add is to sharpie the location of the engine cover screws before you take them off.
They seemed to be torqued pretty specifically and that will make it easy to get them exact again when you close it up.
The controller works great. I was ok with the valves always open but this is a great option to easily revert the car back to stock valve operation when needed.
I read this a couple of times, still not sure what you are getting at regarding the cover... all bolts get tightened to the same spec.
I read this a couple of times, still not sure what you are getting at regarding the cover... all bolts get tightened to the same spec.
Take a sharpie, mark the bolt and cover. Then when you screw the bolt back in you know where it needs to be tightened to by aligning the sharpie markings.
Take a sharpie, mark the bolt and cover. Then when you screw the bolt back in you know where it needs to be tightened to by aligning the sharpie markings.
Ahhh, I see what you are thinking, using a torque wrench would be preferred, additionally I don’t see these as critical fasteners but getting them close to spec would be good!
Got my Cargraphic valve controller installed today. Works as advertised and exactly as I wanted it to. I am now going to attempt to program 2 of the homelink buttons to duplicate the functions of the remote that came with the unit. I didn't see any other posts regarding someone doing this for Cargraphic....but I sure it's been tried. Anyone know?
Got my Cargraphic valve controller installed today. Works as advertised and exactly as I wanted it to. I am now going to attempt to program 2 of the homelink buttons to duplicate the functions of the remote that came with the unit. I didn't see any other posts regarding someone doing this for Cargraphic....but I sure it's been tried. Anyone know?
I did mine and works perfectly. Pairing process iirc was the same as for any other remote being paired.
03-17-2021, 12:20 PM
