wanderingshi

Just installed mine. Definitely has a bit of drone at the 2.5~3k range... will see how annoying it is.

For those who have programmed their homelink to the cargraphic fob, I'm having issue with the unit picking up the signal. Is this common? Do you have to just hold it a while? How do you get around that, or do you just use the fob?

Westcoast

Drone, with regards to the controller, please explain what you are thinking here...

I too have trouble from time to time with Homelink triggering the VC, yes the included key fob appears to have a stronger signal, and likely less directional, I keep it in the car just in case. The Homelink transmitter for the car is in the front bumper near knee level, between it and the VC is a lot metal which may be the culprit, you only should have to give the over console button one sold press, no holding.

TBH, I think the spot I chose for the controller is the problem, It is essentially inside the left rear fender and surrounded by metal, this summer I am planning to either 1) extend the antenna or 2) relocate the VC into the cockpit and feed the wires through the sound symposer tube. This will not only bring the VC closer to the Homelink transmitter and eliminate a lot of the metal that is shielding it.

AdamIsAdam

Are you talking about programming the HomeLink or using it? Programming worked per owners manual (front, right turn signal light is where you aim and then that light flashes).

Using it: yes, sometimes I have to hit the button a second time but never a third time for the valve to function. I am constantly opening and closing it without much issue. If I'm with the wife, it's closed. It's rarely closed when I'm alone. Yes, it drones below 3k, and if I'm on the phone, I'll close the valves. I love being able to have that option.

wanderingshi

At the 3k range, there's a lot of humming and buzzing that drowns out a lot of other noise, but I guess that means the controller is working.

I got it programmed (lights flashed 3 times), but I'm unable to get the valve controller to switch on/off. I know my homelink works since it's used for my garage.

I also got the unit professionally installed in the Boxster so maybe the location is funky. Also, the guys who installed it in my Boxster told me they had to take out the seats because it's much harder to access the engine with an automatic roof than the manual one in the Spyder for anyone who's thinking about getting this in their Boxster.

Westcoast

Regarding the VC operation, perhaps they have the antenna in a really bad spot... ?

OMG! There is absolutely no need to take the seats out of a regular Boxster! In fact I don't understand how they would have done it through the service hatch inside ( if that is what they did?)

For a Boxster you simply put the roof in the service position as indicated in the owners manual, that way you can access and open the top engine bay cover. I suspect if they didn't do it this way they may have the VC in a really 'interesting' spot!? You should ask them!

Jeff Jones

I love my Cargraphic controller but I'm not able to reliably use the homelink either. As Westcoast said, the homelink is way up front and low so if your Cargraphic controller is in the engine bay or the rear trunk (as mine is), there is just too much in between to work. I don't change it often enough to care...I just keep the remote in the glovebox and that always works.

rjag2034

I have a Boxster 4.0 and have gone into the engine compartment a few times. There is zero reason to remove the seats. The 1st time when I was access the engine I removed the rear speaker and wall carpet behind the seats but realized even this isn't necessary. How much labour time did they quote?

Heres a pretty good vid about engine bay access for 981/718 Boxsters

wanderingshi

OMG, I'm not 100% sure as I wasn't interested in getting into the car. Had to pay 2 hour extra labor 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

I think they mentioned the VC was in the back right compartment (engine?). It sounded familiar as to where it'd be installed from few videos I watched.

wanderingshi

Went from 3 to 5 hours. FML, I guess that's the risk of not doing it yourself. They were a pretty reputable shop too according to Rennlist. I guess they see more Spyders/GT cars than Boxsters.

Gotcha. Remote it is then.

​​​​​​​Thanks everyone.

Unstock

Following, thinking about what direction to go with my exhaust when the time comes. Thinking only OAP's and exhaust, no headers needed.

AdamIsAdam

OAP's and Valve controller is amazing.


This one is OAP's but no Cargraphic yet:

SupremePower

Have a few options avaialble. Please PM or email sales@supremepower.com if you need assistance

ttcbj

I installed my cargraphic valve controller on my BGTS today. Here are some notes from the install:

Accessing the engine compartment

I found this youtube video most helpful. However, although several videos say you need to remove the carpet and speaker covers in the cabin, I did not find that to be the case. I found that with a small T-30 torx socket and a small ratchet, I could access even the forward bolts without trying to get at them from the front.


Installing the Controller

I found a combination of these two videos helpful. They both catch different details:


and


However, don't forget to view the Cargraphic installation instructions on a computer:

https://www.cargraphic.de/fileadmin/...-4L_ENG_V3.pdf

On page 5, there is a very helpful callout picture of what it looks like down where you are reaching. It's really hard to see that when you are reaching. That picture was a lifesaver for me.

Installation Notes

Here are some notes that clarify some details that I felt were lacking in the videos:

1. One engine access, you will reach in and detach a cable that connects the back of the convertible top down. You need to detach it on either side. You detach it at the bottom. There is a ball joint there, if you reach down you can wiggle the cable on the ball joint. You just pull it straight toward the inside of the car to detach it. There isn't a latch or button or anything. Just pull.

2. You need to loosen the vacuum tubes on top of the engine. I had just moved my car around in the garage, and found it really hard to get the first one (the one towards the front with the white ring that you push) off. When I finally did, it made a seal-breaking noise. I think maybe it was so hard to get off because there was a little vacuum left.

3. Regarding disconnecting the original connector.

A. Definitely look at the pictures in the PDF. It shows how it looks disconnected clearly, where none of the videos really did. I was worried it was connected to another wire, and I would lose that wire. But in fact it connects down into an oval plastic piece that is hard-mounted. So, you won't lose it. You'll be able to see it clearly once you get the thing disconnected.

B. It will rotate up from the inside of the car towards where the two wires enter the connection.

C. It will initially click up, but that is not the end of it. It's kind of spring loaded once you get past the initial click. So, in order to detach the connector you need to reach in, hold it up, and then pull. When you are holding it up against the spring, it will pull out effortlessly. You don't need to pull hard if you have it right. I would get your hand down there, and make sure you feel the spring action of that little white piece first, then, try to pull it and the connector at the same time.

Regarding the initial click, both videos show the use of a screwdriver. I have no idea how they got a screwdriver in there at the right angle. I used a right angle trim removal tool to get it hooked. It is possible if I knew how it moved (it rotates up and back a little, it doesn't come straight up) that I could have done it with fingers, I am not sure.

D. When you go to reassemble it, it is possible to pull the wire back through towards the side of the car, rather than routing it directly up from where it was (it will go under another big wire, then come up closer to you). I think this is what both youtube videos did on close inspection. This creates more room for the new connector to go down into the hard mounted oval that is now empty.

E. Everything (the electrical connectors, the vacuum tubes) will go back together with a very satisfying click. I never wondered if I had it right. It was really obvious.

I think that is it. Overall, it took me about 3.5 hours. It was one of those jobs where I had to step away at multiple points, feeling totally hopeless, but then I'd put my hand back down in, and fiddle around, and discover something new (like the spring action) and be able to proceed. I would definitely prepare mentally to be patient and to expect to fiddle around a bit. I can see how someone with a lot of experience on cars could do it very quickly.

As for the sound, it is definitely a lot louder in first, and there is more of a deep burble sound on deceleration in low gears. The sound under strong acceleration between 3 and 4k is quite nice and is a definite improvement. I drove it on the highway with the top down, cruising 60-75 in 6th, and didn't notice any drone at all. I didn't try it with the top up yet.

I already have a Kline exhaust, which is my next project. I hope to install it soon, maybe as soon as next week. I will post my experience with that in the Kline thread when I get to it.

skafia

I have one for sale if anyone is interested, located in SoCal. $400. 2 mode, used for a couple of weeks.

pyceasyas123

Does anyone know if there is an activate/de-activate function in the 2-mode controller or a reset?

I've had the CG 2-mode controller installed in 2 different spyder's. First car worked perfectly after the install. The second car had some minor issues. The open/close (button 1 and 2) function works fine using the remove at idle - leads me to believe that the install was done correctly and the vacuum lines connected to the valves are attached properly. When I hit button 1 (open valves) and then go for a drive - I'm finding that the valves automatically close again. I'm wondering whether the controller is doing something odd to make this happen. While I am driving I can press button 1 (valves open) again and it will open the valves but as I drive, they will close again.