Macca

What you talking about Walt?

Seriously in 13 years of multiple P car ownership and extensive modding Ive never heard of any of this???

My cars get WOF'd by CCS and the insurance company gets an annually updated spreadshhet of mods. No issues, never has been and I changed from AMI to State to Classic to Presigio over the last 13 years still no issue or change in policy cost (that Im aware of). Maybe Im just self insured. Wouldnt be the first time...!

The coilover questions is an off one. These are just shocks. Cant see the issue. I guess as long as coilovers were fitted to a model in the same range its not deemed a modification beyond period (n my car 993RS had coilovers).

Im really surpised to hear that compliance and insurance are resons not to modify your Porsche. These havent ever crossed my mnd nor been brought to me as issues by the many specialists I have paid to work on my car. Heck I dont even have a factory computer in the car!

Macca

John you have been trying to talk yourself out of getting the suspension sorted since you got he car but in reality its one of the first things you should have done perhaps? I havent not opened up a book yet on track driving to hear the words "your best investment is in getting your chassis and brakes sorted"...

I know Steve Wong well. He built me around 5 variants of chips some of the back of Dynopak AFR files. Email him direct, tell him you have 964 with LWFC and tell him the motoronics control unit serial number and version number. pay your $500 usd and i 10 days you'll have a chip you can slot in which will hopefully solve your stalling issues. He did one for me (I have a pre varioram car prone to stalling with the LWFC) and it worked well....much cheaper than changing the clutch back over...

mikee6421

Errr...no, not unless the missus took it for a rip...?

'coil overs' means PSS10s, right?

Macca

Mike. yes PSS10 = coilovers.

Paul. I would advise heavily about ripping out the suspension until you have a full plan of attack worked out for purpose. I did mine three time to get it right and the labour and full geo each time is $$$. No need to worry about a group buy Mark at FDMotorsport will be cheaper to ship and land than any group arrangement via Carnewal (uses Fedex only at full declared value). My guess you could get the shocks, uprated (non adjustable) sway bars landed fitted and geoed for around 6.5K or under 6K if you drop the thicker sway bars. If you go below RS+10mm you'll likely have bump steer issues at the front so try to keep it above this. Pinning the existing tie rods is a damn good idea (I already have a pinned set you can buy that may work out cheaper). Front A arm bushes pressed out and replaced with urethane or cartridge (as per Mikes example with ER) done same time as to avoid expensive geo twice. Id look at replacing sway bar bushes to as precasutionary (cheap).

Clubsport spec eh? Mate wold be cheaper for you to shell out 150K for mine than go down that route LOL!

cbnz

Stupidly when my warrant was due I went to VTNZ at Botany in Auckland. I have Bilstein HD's and so ride height adjustable. I had to get a LVV as a result. I think it all depends on where you go to get your WOF.

John McM

CCS works for me. $56 and they give it a wash. Mind you, the C4 Z221s at mid wear points may be a challenge. Time to put the Frankenstein D90s on for the warrant, just like they do in other parts of the country i.e. Legal for a day. A bit harder with suspension though.

John McM

Sale was to a phisher so relisted. Buy now is $32,500 http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used...-676843428.htm

Maxem

The 964 came out factory with adjustable platforms, just like the KWV3 set up mine has now. I carry a picture on my phone of the original setup just in case the feds questions the new gear as it is essentially the same.

kiwi 911

The plan is simple, lower from SUV ride height so something that looks sexy and aggressive, that still has a comfortable ride. I understand, but stand to be corrected, that you can't adjust height or rebound unless you have a coil over. I will reserve judgement until I look at mike's car. I did like the ride in your car, it was actually superior to Matt's ride.

kiwi 911

This must be good value for a race car? You could spend $30k on stripping, RS brakes, top end rebuild, exhaust, cage, race seats, suspension and for $60k have a nice RS rep. Maybe a better option than the yellow LHD?

Chris...??

Macca

Paul. You cant do all that for 30K. Your smoking that funny stuff again...RS brakes alone will cost you 5K in parts and pads. A decent suspension set up probably 8-10K min (ask Sean hes been doing the research). A top end with little tickle 20K+...etc

kiwi 911

Cage $4k
Top end is $8-12k - a bottom end is 20k
Brakes $5k
Assume the selling of the interior covers the racing seats etc
Suspension $8k
$5k for misc / exhaust.

No - comfortable with $30k

Not proposing to build a car quicker than Sean's new one, just bench marking against the yellow one.

There are things I missed, but you have lots of parts to sell like existing c2 brakes which would be a very tasty upgrade for my C3.

Macca

Im pretty sure you are light on the top end. Ill use John as a reference here (call it 15K and change). Selling the interior might get you $800 given the colour and wear and tear in that car. 964 interior seats dont fetch much on TM. That might cover the labour and parts to fit a six point harness system but youll be $4K in the hole for two racing shells, side mounts, sliders etc. Assumes you strip the interior and fit the buckets yourself. I cant see you getting there for under 70K if its done properly....and that assumes no issues with 1/2nd gear synchros or dog teeth. Throw an LSD in there for better performance and you may be up for another 4K including fitting and lashing but why not whilst you have the engine and tranny out and broken apart (top end rebuild). Youd be wise to do the throw out bearing and install a new clutch at the same time. I reckon your looking at 75-80K to make a car like that reliable for a 5000km touring + 750km open stage SI Targa Tour. More over from my experience youll need a good 6 months shake down once the works been mostly completed to iron out the bugs and get the settings all good for the event....All IMHO of course but a common mis denomer you can build a reliable 20 year old 911 semi competition car on a budget in my opinion. Just think how much do you have in yours and would it be reliable for a 5750 km mixed tour/targa or a SITT? Heck Im not 100% sure my 993 will manage ether without a hitch...

O2GO

I had similar but absurd experience at VTNZ who failed my factory coloured seat belts because they had no factory spec tags attached. They accused me of having aftermarket belts and failed it. Motorscience sorted it with a copy of the factory specs seatbelt diagram which showed colours and codes. Was a big time wasting drama for nothing tho.

Macca

Hi Mate. That's correct. The coilover gives you those adjustments but the spring and strut does not. The HD + spring option will give you the stance and look and will be fine for the road. The coilover is really needed if you wanted to use the car regularly at the track or on a Targa Tour etc. Unfortunately mine isnt the best comparative example as it has a host of other modifications from rear alloy subframe mounts and RS adjustable arbs to RS front uprights and tie rods etc. All of that said and as per my 993 build thread I regret not having gone coilover form teh beginning - when I did install them on like for like chassis over the HDs the ride improved noticeably and I realized the HD ride was "crashy" in comparison - I would have argued back and blue it wasnt crashy when I only had the HDs and no coilover experience. The 993 never bottomed out on the Targa Tour last year even with really bad road surfaces and that was running basically RS height and specs. The chassis is much better controlled for compression....