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If your entire frunk lid was in tact it would have been 3,403 pounds. Hopefully that is a picture illusion/reflection that makes it look like the front of the hood is missing.
Ok so my Carrera S is missing the powerkit and wide body... but its close:
XJJ Belt Outlet B Pillar Carbon
X69 Carbon Door Sill Mdl Insignia
803 Carbon Package
509 Fire Extinguisher
176 Sports Exhaust System
XRR 19" Carrera Sport Wheel
P17 PASM Sports Suspension Package
P01 Adaptive Sport Seats
267 Self Dimming Mirrors
810 Floor Mats in Interior Color
680 Bose High End Sound Package
672 Navigation Module for PCM
640 Sport Chrono Package Plus
619 Bluetooth Phone Interface
603 Dynamic Cornering Lights
342 Heated Front Seats
870 Universal Audio Interface
XCZ Short shifter
Ok so my Carrera S is missing the powerkit and wide body... but its close:
XJJ Belt Outlet B Pillar Carbon
X69 Carbon Door Sill Mdl Insignia
803 Carbon Package
509 Fire Extinguisher
176 Sports Exhaust System
XRR 19" Carrera Sport Wheel
P17 PASM Sports Suspension Package
P01 Adaptive Sport Seats
267 Self Dimming Mirrors
810 Floor Mats in Interior Color
680 Bose High End Sound Package
672 Navigation Module for PCM
640 Sport Chrono Package Plus
619 Bluetooth Phone Interface
603 Dynamic Cornering Lights
342 Heated Front Seats
870 Universal Audio Interface
XCZ Short shifter
spliced the new led looms with the older harness - thank you Bill!!!!
Those twist connectors are fine for interior of a house, but for a car you should have used solder and shrink wrap to insulate the connections or even actual actual automotive connectors, given the environment they live in and the vibration they will see. Plus, LED's are real funny acting with voltage drops and current draw. Had a friend with a boat and trailer, that used twist connectors....and he always had electrical problems. I finally showed up one day with the materials and tools, and told him unless we redo it all with solder and shrinkwrap, I was never going out on his boat again. I'm an EE worked on all kinds of big and small radar and comm systems, and I hate twist and crimp connectors....argh....so many problems can be traced to bad connections. Solder joints can fool you too, a cold solder joint is baffling as well. Anyhow, at least use electrical tape to somewhat seal it up from moisture if you use twist connectors. I'm stepping off my **** engineer soapbox now.
a TON of electrical tape was used to wrap up all cables from the outside afterwords (individually and together) to ensure vibration protection and lock out moisture .… as stated the images are coles notes edition.
but did learn a few things from your post!
Originally Posted by DC911S
Those twist connectors are fine for interior of a house, but for a car you should have used solder and shrink wrap to insulate the connections or even actual actual automotive connectors, given the environment they live in and the vibration they will see. Plus, LED's are real funny acting with voltage drops and current draw. Had a friend with a boat and trailer, that used twist connectors....and he always had electrical problems. I finally showed up one day with the materials and tools, and told him unless we redo it all with solder and shrinkwrap, I was never going out on his boat again. I'm an EE worked on all kinds of big and small radar and comm systems, and I hate twist and crimp connectors....argh....so many problems can be traced to bad connections. Solder joints can fool you too, a cold solder joint is baffling as well. Anyhow, at least use electrical tape to somewhat seal it up from moisture if you use twist connectors. I'm stepping off my **** engineer soapbox now.