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I would assume both of you have originally the CDR24. Cars with the CDR24 do not have the dual FM diversity antennas of the Bose or ASK systems, so thus there is only one FM antenna behind the driver's side A pillar. If you were to look behind your radio, and you find only a single black antenna cable, you have the single antenna configuration and you only need to do the below to restore your FM reception.
THIS IS AN UPDATE TO MY ORIGINAL POST ON FIXING THE ANTENNA RECEPTION ON SINGLE FM ANTENNA CARS
Please disregard my original post on reworking the antenna cables by the antenna module at the passenger footwell area. On cars with the single antenna cable, do not use the antenna bypass loop that comes with the kit at the antenna module, just leave everything alone with the existing antenna system. Also do not use the antenna adapter that comes with the kit that plugs into the back of the PCCM unit. The only thing you need to do is just plug in your existing antenna cable into the upper antenna port as shown below, that's it done. Compared with the previous reconfiguration, the FM reception is even better and just like before. Using the antenna bypass loop at the antenna module will result in a complete break of the antenna loop so thus no reception. And using the antenna adapter that goes between the unit and the antenna cable will result in the antenna plugging into the lower antenna port, and thus almost no FM reception. Only the upper port is the primary antenna input port.
So to anyone with the single antenna only setup, it is best practice to not use the included cable (with two connectors on it) for the FM antenna? That is how I originally did it (using the adapter) and I was scanning through old posts before putting everything back together, so I can still undo it and connect it directly if that is best. I will say, the only thing I like about using the various adapter cables is the extra length that you gain but it sounds as if there will be worse audio reception. Thanks!
SteveW, that's exactly what I was considering doing, but a 10,000mfd cap at 25 volts is relatively large. I'll need to find a place to store the components somewhere on the car. I was also looking at using a single transistor solution based on pin 8 which already includes the delay. Did you use the backup light for both the camera power and the reverse trigger?
Up to you, but I with a transistor, you'd have to run more wiring from front to the back of the car. This is a capacitor install tapped only at the power and ground for the camera, all passive and don't think it's that big (unless you think 20mm x 40mm is big), before the harness is wrapped and sleeved in braided cable mesh.
Originally Posted by bxstrCA
I have no CANBUS. Reading this thread, it has been suggested that it is either not connected or not connected properly and thus no stereo power up on start and no buttons lighting up etc.
I have a 2008 987 with PCM 2.1 and NAV (non Bose). I have not changed the CANBUS connector in the loom but something is strange: If I plug in the loom directly to the PCCM+ I get 'CANBUS' (e.g. powers up with ignition) If I use the supplied link connector, I get nothing.
Note the loom CANBUS (middle section):
There is NOTHING in the middle section. The green wire plugs into the bottom section (that is fully occupied by the SIRIUS XM connector - blue connector). The only other wires (top portion fo the CANBUS) would plug into the Audio out connectors ( I am using a custom yellow connector to send audio pre input signals to my amp - this works).
It would appear that the PCM 2.1 has the yellow and green connectors reversed? This means that I will have to de-pin and move the pins to accommodate this. This is risky because I have no reference for these pins coming out of the car or going into the PCCM+
I'm hoping that you can help me think this one through ...
Thanks
If you look at the PCM 2.1 diagram, you will see the green wire goes to pin 20 of the PCM and is called CAN WAKE UP, so it is in the correct position in your harness connector. However if you changed the PCCM settings so the yellow block outputs line level audio preouts for your amp (Car > Settings > Volume [hold for 10-15 sec]), I don't think the CANBUS would still function. It's probably either/or. So C1 in the diagram below which is normally for CAN High when changed over becomes line level audio preout for the rear left channel, and C2 which is for CAN Low becomes line level audio preout out for the rear right channel. If CAN signals can multiplex along with audio signals, I would be surprised, and not sure how you would even wire that up. So unless you need to have line level rear channels, if you want full CAN function, you might need to change the PCCM settings back to CAN, and just use the two channels of line level L&R outputs from the MOST port (B15 to B18).
That yellow wire in the adapter harness has no function except for a Cayenne to provide a triggered ground from PCCM pin B8 to turn on its rear camera. You can ignore/remove it for a 997 and 987.
I have the Kenwood - don't care that it's not OEM. The 997 is truly the last drivers Porsche (still have to to turn your lights off) but having wireless carplay and a backup camera is a huge upgrade. Being able to stream music is a must have and a no brainer. Just do it and don't worry about the purist OEM its the small things in life that make you happy.
the bovee is far from perfect, but it’s extremely low friction. That plus a renn adapter with a magnetic mount was an 80% solution for about $100.
I have the Kenwood - don't care that it's not OEM. The 997 is truly the last drivers Porsche (still have to to turn your lights off) but having wireless carplay and a backup camera is a huge upgrade. Being able to stream music is a must have and a no brainer. Just do it and don't worry about the purist OEM its the small things in life that make you happy.
Buttons/*****, Instrument cluster NAV and Car systems control is what I was after. There is a distinct lack of ergonomic understanding when you have a high quality HU that only have a touchscreen. ( Do you know how easy it is to quickly adjust the volume on a HU with no buttons or ***** while driving?) I removed a high end Pioneer HU for that very reason to replace with this one and it has been a headache of a journey. Stay tuned, a PCCM+ at a deeply discounted price may be available soon.
I cant get this black connector from the vehicle loom to plug into the red socket on one of the pccm adapters. I'm 99% sure that's where it's supposed to go. The red pccm socket looks like its pins are straight. This photo makes it look like some of the car loom side are crushed.
Do I need to figure out how to de-pin this connector on the main loom and straighten them? Can I do that with generic tools like picks and small screwdrivers or do I need to order a de-pinning tool and wait? or do i just push harder?
Thanks
@tangledweb Did you solve the problem and how? I'm having the exact same issue an tried everything from carefully bending the pins to checking the female side of the connector if it's somehow jammed. Nothing worked so far and I tried for hours...
Up to you, but I with a transistor, you'd have to run more wiring from front to the back of the car. This is a capacitor install tapped only at the power and ground for the camera, all passive and don't think it's that big (unless you think 20mm x 40mm is big), before the harness is wrapped and sleeved in braided cable mesh.
@Steve W. is this accurate on how you connected the capacitor to minimize the error?
My PCCM+ is starting up in colour and then shifting to grayscale (Porsche crest, album covers etc.). I think I changed a setting somewhere but unfortunately the 'Factory reset' option doesn't touch that config. Did anyone run into this issue?
If you look at the PCM 2.1 diagram, you will see the green wire goes to pin 20 of the PCM and is called CAN WAKE UP, so it is in the correct position in your harness connector. However if you changed the PCCM settings so the yellow block outputs line level audio preouts for your amp (Car > Settings > Volume [hold for 10-15 sec]), I don't think the CANBUS would still function. It's probably either/or. So C1 in the diagram below which is normally for CAN High when changed over becomes line level audio preout for the rear left channel, and C2 which is for CAN Low becomes line level audio preout out for the rear right channel. If CAN signals can multiplex along with audio signals, I would be surprised, and not sure how you would even wire that up. So unless you need to have line level rear channels, if you want full CAN function, you might need to change the PCCM settings back to CAN, and just use the two channels of line level L&R outputs from the MOST port (B15 to B18).
That yellow wire in the adapter harness has no function except for a Cayenne to provide a triggered ground from PCCM pin B8 to turn on its rear camera. You can ignore/remove it for a 997 and 987.
HI Steve, is there a setting to activate the MOST connector to get the line level outs?
The capacitor if fine, anything 16v or higher, but if you're buying from Digikey, you might as well get the one with longer life: this one or this. But you also need a diode such as a 1N4002. For hookup refer to the diagram previously posted. Nothing has changed: https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...quest-114.html
Originally Posted by bxstrCA
HI Steve, is there a setting to activate the MOST connector to get the line level outs?
Thanks!
No settings to change, those pins already output analog line level out. That's what I use to feed the JL amplifier. The MOST box, which I don't use, just takes those analog outs and converts it to a digital fiber optic signal for a Bose amp, which I don't have. See here: https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...l#post18682184
The capacitor if fine, anything 16v or higher, but if you're buying from Digikey, you might as well get the one with longer life: this one or this. But you also need a diode such as a 1N4002. For hookup refer to the diagram previously posted. Nothing has changed: https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...quest-114.html
New issue.
The screen is saying that the GPS antenna is disconnected, and the iGo navigation keeps quitting.
It had been working fine.
I have disconnected and reconnected twice.Still getting same issue.
Any ideas??
Thanks
Bennett
New issue.
The screen is saying that the GPS antenna is disconnected, and the iGo navigation keeps quitting.
It had been working fine.
I have disconnected and reconnected twice.Still getting same issue.
Any ideas??
Thanks
Bennett
I'm having a problem replacing the amplifiers in the A pillars as the connections for the old and new parts appear to be different. The old part number is 987.647.105.00.
Has anyone else come across this problem?
2005 Boxster S 987.1 - CDR24, with BOSE but no PCM.
04-30-2023, 08:28 PM
