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then have to plug the original holes for the oem tips?
the method I mentioned raises the rear a little and exposes the muffler. To do the other way, you can just have a good shop fill those circular cutouts and then cut out the center. That keeps the bumper looking OEish
That sounds awesome. Post more vids of it running/driving. Sounds catless, is that a glass rear bumper?
It's catless 3" piping going into the cenyer muffler with top hole being closed/blocked off.
Thats a eurp CF bumper from Markus Drenzla aka Werk996 on Instagram. He does crazy body work stuff. We are doing roof delete, hood, front gt2 bumper, rear bumper and doors. I won't have any more video for now until April.
It's catless 3" piping going into the cenyer muffler with top hole being closed/blocked off.
Thats a eurp CF bumper from Markus Drenzla aka Werk996 on Instagram. He does crazy body work stuff. We are doing roof delete, hood, front gt2 bumper, rear bumper and doors. I won't have any more video for now until April.
Originally Posted by blockhed
I saved my oem bumper and purchased a CF bumper instead, win win
i'm also local to markus... i may have to stop by and see him, from what i heard and seen from other posts on this board, his work is top notch...
who fabbed up your exhaust? i have a spare set of kline cats in the basement but would need to weld an elbow from the outlet to the muffler...
Not OP but I have a 2nd OEM bumper I cut out. If you follow the tip cutouts, you can scribe a line perfectly straight across right under the license plate which when sanded, looks pretty good.
Thanks to those who suggested I clean up the button/LED alert placement for my Uniden R7 radar detector. And thanks especially to @LinwoodM for the seat heat switch, which I put to use.
I set the switch up to mute when pressed in either direction, and the LED blinks as it should.
Keep getting CEL with codes P1249, P0410, P1411, P1137, P1128, P1130
I found a loose hose band behind the airbox and thought that solved it. I checked for air leaks but couldnt find any more. The light come on after about a week of city driving. It comes on less frequently after highway driving.
The clutch switch is bypassed.
Any place else I should be checking?
Your P1137 isn't from the bypassed clutch switch - that one is for the starter interlock. It's from the other clutch switch that is for the cruise control and many other random functions.
I can't help with the others, though it does seem to point to a leak in the intake somewhere.
I remember you had repaired the SAI valves? The SAI codes are probably because the ECU doesn't see the effect of the SAI airflow, perhaps because of an intake leak.
The ECU is capable of cruise control even if the car doesn't have it. There should be a second black switch on the clutch pedal that is probably causing that code.
Sorry about the SAI, I mixed you up with someone else. In that case I would check the vacuum hoses and the SAI control valve, which is mounted on the SAI blower.
03-01-2022, 12:14 PM
