pfbz

Love that quote!

I think I documented this before, but I used a small head bolt on the bottom hold down bolt of cyl 4 coil (right side, back cylinder) to avoid having to shim the heat shield.

jeanmarcboilard

The solenoid on the secondary air pump and the diverter valves are both called change over valves in the parts diagram.

powdrhound

Just installed the new larger Beru coils. I used the small 8mm flange bolts as noted by Paul in an earlier post. I purchased the bolts at a local motorcycle shop. On the driver's side there is no interference. On the passenger side, even with the small 8mm bolts, there is a tiny amount of interference between the lower bolt head on the #4 coil (most rearward coil) and the heat shield where it bolts to the head. It's a very small amount and I simply took the heat shield and tapped it with a ball peen hammer creating a small "bubble" in the area on the back of the heat shield I needed clearance. You can see it in the pic below. It's very easy to do and you won't need to resort to shimming the heat shield. If you end up using the larger 10mm head bolts, you can simply use a bench grinder and remove a small amount from the top of the bolt head making a little more "low profile". You will still likely need to clearance the heat shield a small amount.

pfbz

I think I previously said it was cyl 5, but looking at the pictures, yup, it was #4... Fixed my earlier post.

If it isn't obvious where powdrhound gave the heat shield a little ball-peen love tap, I highlighted where it appears to be. On my car, it seemed to clear without the hammer finesse, I might have given a slight tug on my heatshield and/or distorted it a tiny bit in that exact spot when I first tried to install it with a larger headed bolt on the coil.

pfbz

...and the bolt where you want the smallest head depth possible and might still possibly need a tiny bit more clearance.

"02996ttx50

well documented as always. y'all are more resourceful, than i am! great idea, that ball peen.. i would've liked to have kept that heat shield? as it is, it's just a new tray for my hibachi.

powdrhound

You want to make sure the heat shield is in place if you want the coils to last long term Mark. The shield is what keeps the coils from "baking" and deteriorating...

"02996ttx50

thanks john and again, at the risk of embarrassing you and pfbz with flattery for the ingenuity and competence as described, i wish i had followed both you and pfbz' lead on this so as the keep that alum piece in place. as it is ( and as you know ) we will all be back in there for plugs again sooner rather than later ( and given that, i envision cracks i always have new coils on hand ) when getting near my burnt to a crisp plugs ..i'll put back my hibachi tray then, armed with this info. so thanks. i don't recall this issue previously (?) and know I've swapped the 997 coils a few times. but again, great info, to you both.

T10Chris

Got a new wheel/tire setup... Hoosiers gonna come off for now and putting the 275/335 NT01s.. Pictures do no justice to Finspeed wheels. They are automotive jewelry.

And exceptionally light.

cat included for scale

manimal

How much work is involved to fit the 275/335's?

powdrhound

Congrats Chris! Don't forget to remove the steering angle limiters so the tire guys don't lose them when they go to dismount the Hoosiers. I zip tied them to one of the fronts. You can see it in the pics.

T10Chris

John might be able to better answer since I haven't fit them yet, but it isn't for the faint of heart.

What Im working with is: completely roll front and rear fenders. mod the front radiator brackets to push them forward. have fully adjustable suspension capable pushing out the track width and dialing in camber to get things to fit... coilovers with small diameter springs are necessary (I have Moton Clubsports, potentially going to sell this and go with JRZ). GT2 rear fender liner bracket and heat up and re-mold the rear fender liners to give as much clearance as possible. I'm going to install steering angle limiters as John mentions below which may help with potential contact at full lock once I install the GT2 front fender liners and brake ducting. this may or may not be necessary, but certainly won't hurt things. I think there is some modding needed to be done at the rear bumper where it meets the fender as well, but I need to investigate this further.

Also it won't work well with AWD due to the diameter difference, and I have GT3 suspension uprights/wheel carriers in front. I don't know if it will work with the angled TT wheel carriers.

I'll know for sure what all is required once I fit everything up, but might be a few long weeks, or longer.

Thanks again John!

Yes, I saw those pieces! I left it where it is for now until I can transport everything to my shop space.... Don't want to misplace them

Might actually be a bit before I put these on pending what I decide to do with my suspension. I highly doubt these would fit correctly with stock suspension due to the spring diameter and I don't wanna risk it just to have pretty wheels at cars and coffee. Plus it will give me some time to do the other mods to fit it all in.

Carlo_Carrera

Your cat looks in awe at the potential of those tires.

T10Chris

haha yeah, he's never seen anything like it

manimal

My first DIY oil change and new wiper blades today.

I hadn't realized until I put the new correct wiper blades on, that the cheap wiper blades that came with the car didn't have the little aerodynamic spoiler on the driver's side. I feel much more confident about traveling high speeds, now.

Tomorrow, transmission fluid change.