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Full detail inside/outside. Paint correction/paint chip repair and ppf installed on hood, fenders, bumpers, and mirrors. Along with Nano-1 Vision 50 coating. All curiosity of Envision in Salt Lake City.
Full detail inside/outside. Paint correction/paint chip repair and ppf installed on hood, fenders, bumpers, and mirrors. Along with Nano-1 Vision 50 coating. All curiosity of Envision in Salt Lake City.
I did the same job last week... All my existing coils had tiny cracks. I replaced them with the newer OEM 'long bolt' style, Beru ZS178. I paid about $45 each locally at NAPA, but you can find them for as little as $36 each.
I suggest that you do not use the reverse-torx head bolts supplied with the coils, but source standard hex-flange head bolts of the correct length, preferably with 8mm head size. This will allow easier access to the bolts using wobble extensions and eliminate the heatsheild clearance issue on cylinder 4. The torx head bolts are not only the tallest bolts around, but the sockets that go on them are usually bulky, and 3/8" drive only, further reducing tool clearance.
Left to right:
Flange head bolt with 8mm hex head, no clearance issues with heat shield. Use these if you can source them.
Flange head bolt with 10mm hex head, easy to install, but very minor clearance issue with heat shield on cyl. #5, requires shimming with washer. Second choice of what to use.
Reverse torx head bolt included with new coils. More of a clearance issue on cyl. #5, will require stacking several washers or a spacer. These are a PITA to install, remove, and have the largest clearance issue.
Original socket head bolt for old coils.
Now the easiest bolts to use are also probably the hardest to source... Not likely going to find them at your local hardware store, and no way at your Home-Lowe type big-box stores. They are pretty common on motorcycles though, might try a local moto shop.
Bottom picture shows the typical cracking on the original coils (these were 2001 coils with 58K miles on them), as well as the condition of the spark plugs at about 24K miles.
I wouldn't think so. You would just need to buy the bottle for them if you can. Also chemical guys sells something similar and I'm sure there are other places that sell also. http://www.chemicalguys.com/Carbon_F...s_p/wac227.htm Or search for ceramic coatings or hydrophobic coatings.
Really there is only one bolt location that benefits from the smaller 8mm head vs. the 10mm head, a single bolt on cyl 5., but keeping them all the same makes things less confusing for the next person to pull your coils...
Put a new gas cap on. The plastic retaining strap has been broken since I got it but I just got round to it.
Nearly pulled instead of pushing on the little plastic rivet - that would have been bad. Was going to put it into a rivet gun...
hah! i keep meaning to get a new one. i guess it'll wait until i forget to put it back in after fill-ups. been 7 years since i broke that tether until then, i just feel like i'm happily driving and "old' 911 lol.
Really there is only one bolt location that benefits from the smaller 8mm head vs. the 10mm head, a single bolt on cyl 5., but keeping them all the same makes things less confusing for the next person to pull your coils...
08-17-2017, 08:42 PM
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until then, i just feel like i'm happily driving and "old' 911 lol.