#$@! Blew my engine today #&*#@!
#571
Race Director
Thread Starter
I've been trying to find it in the thread, but is there a final prognosis on what happened to the original engine? Was it timing chain related (as the hole in the chain cover seems to indicate)?
Sorry for the loss, but glad to see you're taking it in stride.
-Jon (Another guy with a blue, tracked C2 mk 2)
Sorry for the loss, but glad to see you're taking it in stride.
-Jon (Another guy with a blue, tracked C2 mk 2)
I have some parties interested in purchasing the motor, and they have indicated that an autopsy will be performed. Certainly, once I find out I will post that in info. this thread.
Today's progress: all top end stuff from my old motor was transferred over to the replacement motor. A couple of the spark plug packs from the replacement motor were in crappy shape for some reason (the rubber at the spark plug end was cracked/broken.), so swapped out the ones from my motor. I had recently replaced the water pump in my original motor, so that was swapped over too. Plastic impellers, in case anyone is wondering. The shop said the metal ones are MUCH less prone to failure, but oh well.
Tranny was bolted back in place. So, pretty much now all that's needed is the final install. Of course, I will need to get the AC recharged too. Hey: let's start an oil thread! I'm going with Mobil-1 0-40. Wacky, I know. Let the arguing begin!
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#572
Burning Brakes
The last time I saw this MOF it was an engine from Sonnet Porsche. It picked up a chunk of debris and ran it through the chain, the chain "bumped" out and kissed the case just like yours.
Still interested in buying it, I don't need the block.
Still interested in buying it, I don't need the block.
#573
Race Director
Thread Starter
In addition to the pic you posted earlier in this thread, several others have made mention of this identical MOF. So, the question is, what is that "debris" that got picked up? There's been mention of a rod bolt, but I think that would have caused a lot more noise and damage. Well, I guess we will all know fairly shortly, so no need for my half-assed speculations.
#574
Burning Brakes
I have seen the rod bolt create this 2-3 times. They will sometimes stretch, and then loosen, and simply fall out. Some of those instances will toss the bolt through the top of the case, other times it won't be that radical and the rod cap will stay in place and allow the engine to run without any noises, till its picked up by a chain.
I have also seen the IMS drive chains start to fail and have this failure occur.
In one instance a Porsche dealer did an IMSR and left a piece of debris in the engine, it was picked up by the chain and did this very thing as well. Anything that is made of a substantial material that runs between the chain and IMS drive can cause this. I have even seen a shop do an IMSR and run the wrong length bolt through the bell housing, and break a chunk of the case out, that fell into the chain well. That debris (piece of the block) was picked up by the chain and tossed it through the block. That car was owned by an RL member.
I have also seen the IMS drive chains start to fail and have this failure occur.
In one instance a Porsche dealer did an IMSR and left a piece of debris in the engine, it was picked up by the chain and did this very thing as well. Anything that is made of a substantial material that runs between the chain and IMS drive can cause this. I have even seen a shop do an IMSR and run the wrong length bolt through the bell housing, and break a chunk of the case out, that fell into the chain well. That debris (piece of the block) was picked up by the chain and tossed it through the block. That car was owned by an RL member.
#575
You know the motor may well fail anyway so whatever oil you use is probably a moot point!
Fwiw motor in my 99 has been on M1 0-40 for the last 30K miles and so far so good. I know that could change at any moment. It's an approved oil and as long as you change it every 5-8k miles you should be good on that front IMO.
Fwiw motor in my 99 has been on M1 0-40 for the last 30K miles and so far so good. I know that could change at any moment. It's an approved oil and as long as you change it every 5-8k miles you should be good on that front IMO.
#576
Race Director
Thread Starter
1/28/2015 Update:
Just got a call from the shop.
The car's ready!!!
The mechanic (Gary) said that after it was put back together, it started right up instantly, with the first turn of the key.
I'll head over in an hour or two.
Just got a call from the shop.
The car's ready!!!
The mechanic (Gary) said that after it was put back together, it started right up instantly, with the first turn of the key.
I'll head over in an hour or two.
#579
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NIICE!! i bet you're excited!
__________________
Porsche Performance Specialist
John@Fabspeed.com
215-618-9796
Fabspeed Motorsport USA
155 Commerce Drive Fort Washington, PA 19034
www.Fabspeed.com
Porsche Performance Specialist
John@Fabspeed.com
215-618-9796
Fabspeed Motorsport USA
155 Commerce Drive Fort Washington, PA 19034
www.Fabspeed.com
#584
Race Director
Best of luck with the replacement engine.
May it run long and you prosper.
Oh, nothing wrong with 0w-40. But in San Diego given the mild climate the next oil change maybe you want to switch to Mobil 1 5w-50 oil? (not a typo for 15w-50!).
I switched to 5w-50 here in sunny Livemore -- had the damn A/C in the car on last Saturday it was warm -- because the climate is so mild.
On the way back to Calif. from a road trip to the (frigid) midwest and time to get the oil changed the mid-west Porsche dealer put in 0w-40, which is fine by me. I'll leave it in for 5K miles and then switch back to 5w-50 next oil change.
#585
so SoCal peeps are having a BBQ/GTG at your place to celebrate the rebirth/resurrection of your car followed by a quick jaunt up Mt Palomar?
Or maybe retrace your last trip to purge the gremlins/demons of that road