nycebo

My weekend experience :

I tested the OEM spring, no spring, and half-rate spring (that Doug sent me) configurations all day yesterday. Sitting up under the dash upside-downish for an hour or two definitely left me a little nauseated, that's for sure. Moreover, the stock spring is definitely hard as hell to compress. While I wore safety glasses the whole time, and never needed them thankfully, I'm glad to have had them because an unexpected release of the spring constantly had me on edge that a body part would go missing in the latter case. Last, reinstallation of the spring container is definitely a hassle until you get the hang of it. It took me about 10-15 mins the first time to get it properly seated. Now, I think I could do it in less than 5. The hardest part is holding the clutch in and out as necessary and rotating the chamber properly into place, particularly since I'm pretty broad shouldered and it's hard to maneuvre down there (photos were out of the question). For tools, I used needlenose pliers, a flashlight, safety glasses, and a small hex wrench (instead of a nail) to hold the spring in place. Definitely remove the air vent for a better view. It really helps.

My least favorite setup was with the spring fully removed. The clutch pedals feels mushy and definitely floats at the top of the path. The spring's counterbalance definitely holds it in place up against the cruise control switch. I drove it around for about thirty minutes shifting constantly to get accustomed to it and I just never did. It remained pretty hard and seemed to pop off when I was try to gently slide into gears. It definitely required overt firmness to ensure that I didn't pop the clutch. And bear in mind, that I'm 6'1", 185 lbs and can squat quite a good deal of weight. Moreover, I did not notice the elimation of that slight uncertain feeling when shifting. Frankly, I thinks it's just the way the clutch is set up. All the spring removal seems to do is speed the release of the clutch so your less likely to stall...perhaps. Anyway, I definitely was not sticking with this setup.

My next favorite setup was the (drumroll please) half rate spring. Prior to doing the mod, I thought that the half rate spring would be the perfect compromise. Instead, it created the very same feeling as the OEM spring, but just required more effort. So I'm working harder with my leg and just not receiving any noticeable benefit. Indeed, after having driven the clutch without the spring and not liking it, this wasn't that much of a shock.

So, for the third time, I weaseled into the footwell, turned over, and reinstalled the stock spring. I'll say flat out that this is not a pleasant experience. Holding the clutch down for three solid efforts just about tried my patience and frustration on this OEM spring, but I finally got it back in properly and locked down with the clip. Ah, just the way I've come to like the feel of the clutch pedal. Smooth and easy in motion with reasonable resistance, but without too much effort.

Here are my final thoughts. There is a detante in the at the very onset of the pedal range range the clutch is essentially fully strength because the spring remains somewhat force locked and can't expand. What makes people crazy seems to be as the spring begins to assist @20% of the way into clutch actuation. Pushing in the clutch is easy as the assist comes nearer the beginning of the pedal stroke. However, what seems to make some people stall out is when the clutch is released, and then the spring assist marked decreases during the final 20% of the return. At this point, I think that the clutch pedal is perhaps popping for some drivers and creating the stall as it's released to quickly (as the regular strength of the pedal is unexpectedly raised to full weight). After about 2 hours of test driving the varying clutches yesterday, the key, as I've already discovered with the OEM spring, is to 'expect' this somewhat less-than-gradual increase in clutch 'push-out' and remember to provide a little more throttle as the clutch is released. After acknowledging this behavior, stalling will become a much more unlikely issue.

Who knows, maybe a 75% rate spring would be the best compromise, but I'm not going down into the footwell anytime soon. Actually, I'm keen for some metal pedals, so I guess I'll be down there sometime sooner than I would hope for.

I hope this helps, and I know, different strokes for different folks. Also, it's worth admitting that I do a lot of stop and go in a metropolitan area, so for you weekend drivers, it may not be shared by you. Worse, I'm a little blue because I was really hoping that the mod would vastly improve clutch feel and it just didn't. Anyway, I'm still happy to help manage the group buy for the half-rate spring for those interested. Just let me know.

P.S. - I've PMed with Doug (who originally sent it to me so as to get his OK and again a big thanks to him ) and am happy the test spring to the first person that PMs me. Cheers.

P.P.S. - I have a MY2000 C2 cabriolet for your info.

AndyK

Nice review Ed! So, my fears were correct - a lighter spring would just increase the effort, without making the whole thing smoother or more intuitive!? So, it's either better clutch feel, harder effort, more slop with the No spring, or stock setup.

RamVA

An answer (for many of us, but not Ed) may be a very light spring to simply take the free play out of the system.

AndyK

That, or the rubber tube against the back stop, to keep the pedal up against the CC switch.

Dscott

Yes, but remimber that this approach only works becuase of the reduced spring force. And you do have to help guide the 'nipples' back in to their mounts while you try to slowly allow the pedal to come up; not super easy given the pedal force required, but it worked for me.

AndyK

It's probably easier to put the nipples in the guides first, then raise the pedal until the hole in the spring head lines up with the pedal. THEN you put the pin back in. Problem is, it's impossible to put the pin in with the nut facing the right way. I put mine in backwards, without the retaining clip.

redridge

the rubber tube does the trick for me, no slop, great feel, I decided Im keeping it just the way it is.

Chris996

Check out the new issue of Excellence Magazine, it states the spring can be adjusted from 8% to 33% load.

nycebo

Really? Do you remember how they did it?

Doug Donsbach

Note the diagram on p. 184 of that article isn't showing a 996 clutch pedal assembly.

Chris996

Excellence stated there is a knife edge screw on the back. My clutch feels great, stiff but not too stiff. A new clutch was installed; they may have made this adjustment. I had driven other 996 that didn’t feel this stiff. I also was in a 986 with an extremely stiff clutch which may be do to a clutch going bad.

Chris


2000 Porsche 996 C2 Cab
Eibach springs.
Short shifter B&M.
Fabspeed Exhaust, headers.
Agency Power Rear Adj. Control Arms

gota911

Chris - I have a subscription to Excellence Magazine. SPecifically, what issue # and month of Excellence Magazine has the information you mentioned? The latest issue I have is issue #155 - May 2007.

Thanks

AndyK

I have no knife-edge screw on my spring housing. It's solid plastic.

mxdave74

I'm mystified by this thread... there must be something wrong with me because I have no problem stalling my car or feel it has a variable engagment point.

What I'm not wild about is that the beginning of the engagement point is roughly half way out from fully depressed to the floor. I much prefer engagement that begins early... in fact I added a clutch stop on my Dinan5 that eliminates the lower 1/4 of the clutch pedal travel.

Still.... I'm perplexed that so many have this problem to consider spring assist removal, and it isn't even on my radar. Guess I'll go count lucky stars?

AndyK

Maybe the GT3 has a different clutch pedal set-up?

I think this thread is an example of how great Rennlist is! Owners helping other owners - a beautiful thing!