AndyK

I do notice way more travel with the spring back in, even though everyone says there is not much difference in travel. Whatever! I do like the easier shifting with the spring. I am guessing the half spring will do the trick!

Ramp

Maybe the age of the clutch makes a difference in travel -not sure -my clutch has 2k miles on it and I can say with no doubt I have significantly less travel than pre-mod.

Like you said, whatever, I love it.

AndyK

What about my pin question. For those of you who took the spring out and put it back a few times, how did you get that pin in the correct way? And, with the retaining clip off, what are the chances the pin backs all the way out and the spring falls off?

RamVA

C'mon guys.

I don't want to start a war here, but the pedal has to travel the same distance to disengage the clutch whether there's a spring there to help it or not. The only reasons this would not be are a) without the spring the pedal drops a fraction of an inch from it's topmost position and b) because of the higher effort you're not getting your foot all the way to the floor.

Ramp

No war - maybe your right - I don't know for sure so I won't argue. What I can say is that, for me, this was a great mod. After one day of driving, I don't notice the pressure increase, I like the feel much better, it at least "feels" like there is less travel, clutch engagement "feels" quicker and smoother, I am shifting quicker and smoother and thus the car is accelerating quicker and smoother. All around, a plus for me.

Fair enough ?

redridge

drove it all morning, def a great mod...feels like more feedback on engagent and like the siffer feel. No more perdal play here, and cc works fine.

1999Porsche911

I think what people feel when they say there is less pedal travel is the effect of the short engagement throw of the clutch clutch itseld; from full engagement to full disengagement. The spring makes it feel like you need the whole pedal travel, which is far from the case. In fact, you could half the pedal travel and the clutch would operate fine.

Dscott

I replaced the OEM spring with one that produces about 1/3 of the original bad effects on clutch-pedal feel and found after several days of driving that it provides a nice compromise between no-spring and the OEM unit.

As others have pointed out, I was bothered by what I considered to be excessive play in the pedal when fully released after the OEM spring was removed; maybe 3/4" at the pedal. But on the other hand I definitely appreciated the improved pedal feel w/o the spring. I wanted the best of both approaches.

I carefully dismantled the OEM helper-spring unit, measured the original spring, and then searched for possible replacement springs. Watch out when taking this unit apart because this beast has about 85 pounds of force when pinned. I placed the unit’s pin end in the corner between a post and the floor, then used by feet to press down on the body while a helper removed the restraining pin. Re-assembly was a non-issue since the replacement spring is sooo much weaker.

The only spring of appropriate size that I found was McMaster-Carr P/N 9657K142 that was in stock and selling for $7 for a set of 6 springs. Ground shipping added anther $4 so the total cost was ~$11. Of course, I now have 5 spares…

The photos I wanted to include showed some comparisons between the springs. Unfortunately there is an un-specified minimum number of postings required before I'm permitted to include such attachments. Therefore, if you'd like copies just send me a PM with your e-mail address. Anyway, the key specifications for the OEM vs Replacement springs are:

• Closed and ground ends.
• Minimum overall lengths (4-1/8 vs 3-1/2).
• Springs' inside diameters (0.79 vs 0.77).
• Wire diameters (0.142 vs 0.120).
• Number of active coils (12-1/4 vs 10-3/4).
• Resulting spring rates are about 58lbs/in vs 40. <= I know this doesn't sound like much, but combined with the shorter spring length means there is only about 1/3 as much force applied to the pedal.

Re-installation requires about the same amount of pain as removal. Before you start though, remember to check which side the bolt-head-end of the pivot-pin fits back into on the pedal assembly. I initially set the body 90 degrees from normal so that when I pushed the pedal down by hand so I could align the pivot pin with the pedal, then push the body up in to place, and twist it back to where it belongs as I let up on the pedal. Then just pull out the restraining pin.

While examining the OEM assembly I noted wear on the pivot pin where it rotates in its bushing; 2000 C4 coupe. This might be the source of the often-reported clutch-pedal squeaks; mine wasn't. I don’t understand Porsche’s caution against applying grease to this spot, but I can tell you that it is probably impossible to get any in to this area while the unit's installed.

Porsche_Smile

hey good info..... if you send me the pics on email, i'll post them here for you.......

AndyK

Would a weak spring be too weak to move the clutch? I worry a weak spring would wind up doing nothing, and the plastic spring housing would just be sandwiched between the clutch pedal and the clutch--know what I mean?

redridge

really the only thing the weeak spring would do is to get rid of the slop (play) in the clutch when not depressed. It will also aid if you want a DD feel.

AndyK

DD feel?

redridge

Daily Driver (light clutch)

AndyK

Ah. Got it!

AndyK

Interesting! You put the unit back into the pedal first, put the pin in, then rotate it back into the gold bracket? Will it always rotate right into position, so the nipples (he-he) go back into their receiver holes in the bracket?