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the issue is that most people don’t know about oil specs, in the us you get api, ilsac, aama, mandated specs, you formulate a oil you send it to an approved lab you run all the test, you missed one or or two, due to interchange guidelines you reformulate, re Tun the test or test and you get an approved oil, in Europe you send your fully formulated oil to the OEM Porsche, BMWs, Mercedes, VW, you pay a fee and they test It for you, you fail you got to repeat the procedure, it’s a hell of a difference animal, FYI so that you k ow.
Sorry to keep u all in suspense but i got a late start tonight. Im happy its all apart. I guess i was in denial as it was a seized crank bearing on number 1. None of the other bearings show signs of blueing.i guess it only takes 1.
The damage internally isnt that bad. I think the crank carrier can be saved. Bank 1 case half is pretty fubar but maybe someone can sleeve it and ill still get a core credit. Bank 2 is good but number 4 may need a sleeve because of debris. The plasic tray above the ims is broken. The bigest issue is i think the crank is fubar. Im a little out of my league on what u can do to a crank. Let me know if u think it can be saved.
Here r some pics of the damage. Let me know if u want some more specific pics. I can take them tomor after work.
Also jic u wanted to see what it took to strip the motor, check oit my mess. I have a half dozen totes to store, seal and label the parts into. All the hardware is seperated and labeled in zip locks.
Kinda looks like what it seemed it would - fair amount of carnage. Too bad.
That crank journal looks like it was taking an absolute beat down before it decided it had enough. I know you said no signs of heat on the other bearings - I'd like to see what 200K mile bearings look like, can you post pics and maybe mic them, top and bottom at 3 points - mains and rods...
The mains look pretty good from what I can see from your picture.
Broken rod will make a nice (expensive ) desk trophy
Kinda looks like what it seemed it would - fair amount of carnage. Too bad.
That crank journal looks like it was taking an absolute beat down before it decided it had enough. I know you said no signs of heat on the other bearings - I'd like to see what 200K mile bearings look like, can you post pics and maybe mic them, top and bottom at 3 points - mains and rods...
The mains look pretty good from what I can see from your picture.
Broken rod will make a nice (expensive ) desk trophy
zbomb jeeper you guys seem extremely knowledgeable, this is a 01 3.4 with this apparent damage. Squirrel told me the engine has to come apart, how expensive you guys think guess this is going to be . The engine has 39,000 miles, maybe Porsche tech 3 can jump on this one too. Thanks good luck jeeper.
zbomb jeeper you guys seem extremely knowledgeable, this is a 01 3.4 with this apparent damage. Squirrel told me the engine has to come apart, how expensive you guys think guess this is going to be . The engine has 39,000 miles, maybe Porsche tech 3 can jump on this one too. Thanks good luck jeeper.
Reads like sales guy speak for... it has ****ing rod knock.
Needs rebuild and maybe a new crank depending...or a GT3 engine or a Turbo transplant or an LS or ... It's a roller.
As far as i can tell this is gonna cost me between $15-20k. The exact costs r a little muddy. It depends on if the crank, case and halves r good.
The core charges r significant. I suspect i am on the hunt for a good bank 1 half and a crank to core out. Lmk if any if you guys see something.
Full disclosure... this is the farthest i have dove into a motor. I usually have thr rotating assemblies built then i put the rest together. I dont really have an experience setting up cramk bearings amd pistons. That being said i took this thing apart...im sure i can put it back together.
I would like to build this motor as a reliable track performer. The issue is that i dont really know what that means. From my reasearch part of that is to open up the mains a little. Again not really sure how that is acheived.
So far the 2 options i have found are a localish shop un baltimore called SSI. I have got several positive personal reviews and i met the guy at Watkins and got a solid vibe from him. The rough price was in my range but im not sure how that will change with all the damage. Also i dont know his schedule. Ill probably start with a phone call and then a visit to see his operation.
Second option is to just buy Jakes video, rnd nickie cases and their rebuild kit. I think it will cost about the same as the SSI motor but i will be doing the work (which is fine). Im sure i can have it done much sooner too.
Also for reconditioning the heads is Hoffman the only choice? They do not appear to be cracked but i would want the full checked and new parts installed.
Z- i assume u r reffering to the rod bearings. I can measure the sides and middle of each half. Ill also clean them up and take a few more pics tonight. I just didnt have the energy last night after seeing the crank.
Edit. Just reread your post. Ill do rods and mains. Again first time i have been in it this far. Ill figure it out.
I would not rebuild it myself, knowing that a stock (with upgraded parts) is not good enough for my needs and worth the investment. That’s all I would be able to do without the experience building these engines for track use. If I went that route, I would expect an issue, like the one that looks to have caused the failure to be likely to reoccur as a rebuild in and of itself does not do anything to address that issue.
I would contact folks that have built engines for extensive track use and get an understanding if I were to have them rebuild the engine, what I would get for my money and how much money that would be. How an issue like inconsistent oil pressure is addressed in their build and try to be as comfortable as possible before moving forward that I would not end up going down the same road again $20K poorer than the first time.
If you would like any of the contact info of people I would reach out to if it were me, shoot me a PM.
Reads like sales guy speak for... it has ****ing rod knock.
Needs rebuild and maybe a new crank depending...or a GT3 engine or a Turbo transplant or an LS or ... It's a roller.
This is Ryan’s Friedman from NY car. I have photos and videos. I walked away from it because he told he wanted around $25, I told him about my car and he couldn’t believe what I paid for it. Then he asked me why I wanted another one and I told him I wanted to diversify my investments too much in the market. Anyway, my guy that works at a PCA shops also works in his house, so I’ll be consulting with him. Any idea on fair value? Originally I taught $11 at most. Thanks.
The engine cases are a matched set so you cannot just replace one side. that one side it beyond repair. I have a matched set with scored bore on cylinder #3. Also that crankshaft carrier is really beyond repair. I have the crankshaft carrier from the cases noted above. No crankshaft though. If you want these for rebuilds let me know and we can work out a deal..
I would not rebuild it myself, knowing that a stock (with upgraded parts) is not good enough for my needs and worth the investment. That’s all I would be able to do without the experience building these engines for track use. If I went that route, I would expect an issue, like the one that looks to have caused the failure to be likely to reoccur as a rebuild in and of itself does not do anything to address that issue.
I would contact folks that have built engines for extensive track use and get an understanding if I were to have them rebuild the engine, what I would get for my money and how much money that would be. How an issue like inconsistent oil pressure is addressed in their build and try to be as comfortable as possible before moving forward that I would not end up going down the same road again $20K poorer than the first time.
If you would like any of the contact info of people I would reach out to if it were me, shoot me a PM.
Couldn't agree more with Jason. You can hear the crickets as many of us have asked about oil starvation/pressure solutions. The reason is that a few folks/shops have figured it out but don't want to give away their "secret sauce" in how they rebuild the engine for track performance and durability without swapping in a Chevy engine.
IMHO, I would go with the guys that have a proven track record with addressing the issues that ultimately destroy the engine. None of us want to be a 15-20k test case for those that say they can but in actuality can't.
No criticism or agenda here on my part. Love your thread and what you are doing and thinking. These are things that I have been thinking about in regards to my 996 which I have owned and tracked for 19 years. Love the car and want to keep it and drive it on the street and track for 19 more years with a solid engine rebuild someday soon.
05-17-2021, 02:03 PM
Oil specs
) desk trophy
