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Are all the valves there ? Maybe it was a timing event that shattered the piston... Metal making its way into the intake looks to me to be a destroyed piston.
Internals in the head and plugs look fine. I can also see the all 3 pistons through the holes so they r still there .
Got to eat and feed the dog. Ill have the head off after dinner so keep checking the thread.
Bank1 heads don't look bad considered the consequences. What do the bank2 heads look like?... did the chain survive? Wonder what the main IMS drive chain looks like?
Anyway, thank you for the post mortem pictures... please keep'm coming. I guess we'll know the truth when this engine is on the half-shell.
I am already looking at rnd replacement block/case but not sure if they have a 3.4l. There is also a race company a baltimore called ssi that i may go visit next week. They nickosil plate and can can do nickies if needed. They were at the track and got a good vibe from the guy.
I may cheat on this one and have the motor built to a track performer spec or i still may build my own. To be honest im not sure i want to build the bottom end if one of these motor without some experience looking over my shoulder.
i can afford one of Jakes motors but i just dont think i want my car to sit for 3 yrs. If i went that direction i would have to put a used motor in and not track until i got it. Again not ideal for me. I bought the car to have fun not sit in a garage.
And to be clear i am not in the least bit complaining that this motor went boom. I have been expecting this to happen since i brought it back from the dead. I made sure it was in as good of shape as it could be in for track duty but it was old and loose. The only thing that im pissed at is it happened on a friday and not sunday.
fyi, if this starts to turn into an arguement about tracking or the quality of a m96 motor i will ask the moterators to step in.
If others have some build idea and options i would love to hear your thoughts.
To keep things clean I won't weigh in technically, either with observations.
Sorry about your engine. Here's my armchair guess to what happened: I see plenty of people talking about oil pressure as the only thing important, but seldom oil flow. The oil pump will keep pushing more and more oil flow until it hits a certain pressure where it will level off and the excess flow will go back thru the by-pass. This is to protect the engine from over-pressure. When running too thick oils(excessive pressure) you level off the oil flow at a too low flow for efficient cooling during hard driving, the oil cooler will not be able to work efficiently if the flow is too low. The correct oil pressure is stated in the manual as "3.5bar at 5k rpm". If you have significantly more than that you will run in to issues, sooner or later. My guess is that(your oil flow was too low) the oil heated up too much causing the piston or rod/main bearings heat up too much and ....bang.
I can’t agree with you more. As a retired tribologist, oil formulator, used oil analyst, lubrication engineer, he’ll put 60 weight oil there if you want pressure, what you want is flow, thick oils also run hotter and due to excessive friction reduce horsepower. In addition to all of that 70 percent of wear happens at startup you are wearing that engine more by running that oil. Jeeper you May want to look at this. The seller sent me this email today lowering the price to $4,000 is a 99, with 69,000 miles. You are getting 5 quarts with the rebate for about $20 taxes included. Then you go to advance and do the $33.99 with oil filter. You got your oil change for less than $60.
Knowing what I know and having taking care of fleets with 500 million dollars worth of engines I’m running Mobil one, if that was not available I’ll run Valvoline European. Remember Porsche themselves went to the 50 weight oil in 2019, I reached out to them and also driven no response. Anyway look at the price of the oils. Look how cheap and easy you can get Mobil one. So far 5,000 miles on my car no oil consumption to talk about, I don’t track the car. There is a $4,000 used 99 engine available I’ll post it.
Last edited by 3/98 911 coupe; 05-16-2021 at 08:15 PM.
I'm really digging this thread much much more than I thought I would. Failure analysis has always been one of my forte's and this moment by moment account of the discovery of the failure since Friday evening is very interesting to me .
Even more interesting than doing it myself ( since I have gotten old and get tired easily).DeJeeper is doing it so much faster than I would be able to nowadays.
I can't wait to see the next broken part. ( that's kinda weird though in a way)..
I'm still looking for a "dark blue color:" on the rod that the rod bolt came from......
Thanks for saying it skip... It's like, I shouldn't be as invested in what comes next or enjoying the process as much as I am, or at least I shouldn't admit it openly... but I do.
DJ is a boss for slinging through all that work at this pace and thank god cause I'm on the edge of my seat.
I know Z, if we were over there we would be having the Ingersal Rands singing while DJ was eating his dinner, feeding the dog, then hand back off to him...lol
To keep things clean I won't weigh in technically, either with observations.
You can buy my video and build it yourself.
it is an option and im sure i can, just not sure i want to.
i suspect u already know what is broke and why and its better if u dont tell. If i need advice ill open a ticket as your experience is invalueable.
also all this oil talk is hindsite and moot. The motor is gone. I started with an old and loose motor with no service records, the math was clear. It had no bore scoring in 200k miles and i was using good oil but not track oil.
Im an engineer that is also a pretty good mechanic. I played in the high power desiel world long before brodozers and have been into the anaysis of new oils and changes for the last 25 yrs. No need to rehash or continue what u guys have mentioned and wrote about in debth in previous threads. Thx for your input so far.
I know Z, if we were over there we would be having the Ingersal Rands singing while DJ was eating his dinner, feeding the dog, then hand back off to him...lol
i have to keep u guys in suspence, think of it as s commercial break.
I know Z, if we were over there we would be having the Ingersal Rands singing while DJ was eating his dinner, feeding the dog, then hand back off to him...lol
Haha - I’d be feeding him adult beverages to keep him away... don’t worry DJ... I got it
Originally Posted by De Jeeper
i have to keep u guys in suspence, think of it as s commercial break.
I know Z, if we were over there we would be having the Ingersal Rands singing while DJ was eating his dinner, feeding the dog, then hand back off to him...lol
Talking about dinner, I ate for the whole day. The compressor school was 5 days. I’ll be interested to see if it’s rebuildable isn’t it easier to start with a lower wear engine.
Rear cylinder and piston is well beyond d-chunk. The head looks perfectly fine except for some debris in the exhaust valve. Im gonna break down bank w but dont think there is an issue in that side so probably no pics coming from that side. I probably wont get to splitting the halves till tomor.
An RND engine would be the best quick solution IMHO.
Rebuilding it, or a replacement, yourself would make a great thread, and you could build it larger.
A FSI engine that’s purpose built for the track would be the best solution in my opinion.
Jake has ways to allow the engine to survive on the track, but that’s part of his secret sauce.
Last edited by TexSquirrel; 05-16-2021 at 10:29 PM.
05-16-2021, 06:57 PM
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