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20min of breaking down the pass rear to pull the shaft and 15 min more to disassemble the boots. Its a pretty easy job and would encourage a diy guy to handle this kind of repair in the garage instaed of a mechanic. Fcp is shipping the boot kits for $25 so its infinately less then buying a new shaft.
Also pulled and weighed the crank pulleys. There is a pretty big difference. Not sure if its a usually thing but the locator pin in my pulley was broken but i just needed a magnet ti pull the piece from the crank. I did mean to do this before i pulled the shaft because now i cant set the e-brake and lock the drivetrain down to torque the bolt. It will have to wait till the axle parts arrive.
I wouldnt worry there r no upgrades to the driver.
Originally Posted by Porschetech3
Broken pin? Uht oh...did that engine have a dual-mass flywheel on it or did it already have the LWFW..
All the part numbers show it as a stock gt3 dmf and clutch. I doubt the pulley had spun at the bolt was super tight and there were no rotational score marks. Maybe i was lucky?
All the part numbers show it as a stock gt3 dmf and clutch. I doubt the pulley had spun at the bolt was super tight and there were no rotational score marks. Maybe i was lucky?
Well a pin doesn't just break from sitting in a hole, if hasn't spun and damaged the snout then yes I would say you were lucky..
I see a little oil seepage from the FMS on the inside of the steel pulley. That may be why the pin broke .
Oil got between the snout and the pulley and lowered the "friction" of the mating surface with the pin and clamp load the only thing resisting movement..
It should remain dry.......and probably a reason the OEM pulley is made of steel...Steel against steel has a higher friction ( even with oil ) than aluminum against steel ( aluminum against steel with oil is a bearing surface)..
This would be a good place to use one of these "diamond friction washers" https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/...tion-shims.pdf ...like is being used on many crankshaft/pulley connections or on the Vario-cam plus actuator to cam connection.....if you could find one the proper size it would increase holding friction 5X....
Even the mighty Mezger can have issues that need updating ....
Last edited by Porschetech3; 02-26-2023 at 03:03 PM.
This motor sat for at least 3 yrs before i got it. There was oil residue from the front crank seal. It was dry and im 100% sure its not an active leak. Im sure its like a rms that weeps when u dont drive a mezger.
The new pulley does require it to be heated up because its a slight press fit. Im sure this helps raise the friction #s. I guess we will see how it does soon enough.
Got the drivers side font done last night, heading out to get the pass front done. Not much to take pics if since wheel bearing replacement is the same as a c2 and its well documented.
I was suppose to get my axle boots today but instead i got a box of random porsche parts i did not order. Guessing the shipping guy switched the lables? Im sure fcp will take care of it tomor.
The engine oil and temp sensors were a chore. I took the tb, plenum and a bunch of other stuff off trying to get to the factory temp sensor spot only for me to figure out that the adaptor i bought would not work. A huge waste of time. I wound up tapping a hole unto the oil filter housing for the temp. There is a perfect port for the turbo motor guys on top of the housing but the gt3 intake blocks it (thats why the gt3 sensor is burried un the middle of the motor). The pressure sensor just got put inine with the factor sensor.
Brake hose Port that doesnt work Pressure sender Tapped into housing behind the alt
Oh and yea me... i was hunting down an evap code and the vent nipple broke off the sender. Im pretty sure it was cracked already and its what was giving me the code? On my car i can just order the top of the sender which saves money, might be the same for a standard c2?
The engine oil and temp sensors were a chore. I took the tb, plenum and a bunch of other stuff off trying to get to the factory temp sensor spot only for me to figure out that the adaptor i bought would not work. A huge waste of time. I wound up tapping a hole unto the oil filter housing for the temp. There is a perfect port for the turbo motor guys on top of the housing but the gt3 intake blocks it (thats why the gt3 sensor is burried un the middle of the motor). The pressure sensor just got put inine with the factor sensor.
Brake hose Port that doesnt work Pressure sender Tapped into housing behind the alt
Oh and yea me... i was hunting down an evap code and the vent nipple broke off the sender. Im pretty sure it was cracked already and its what was giving me the code? On my car i can just order the top of the sender which saves money, might be the same for a standard c2?
I maybe able to buy a gt3 996 cup engine that has recently been rebuilt. It comes with the ecu that has been tuned for better performance. My car currently runs fine with no issues but I want more power. Will appreciate your coments about buying this 05 Mezger gt3 cup engine and fitting it in my early 996 coupe. Would definitely be an awesome one off car sitting next to my 03 Mezger twin turbo. Hey if you are up to it pm me I’ll pay cash to do the job. I would drive my car there and have the engine ship to you. Let me know your thoughts. Saturday I’m going to our biggest concourse in Kemah texas, over 300 cars. Squirrel is going with his broken in 4.0 FSI. Going to be a bunch of fun.
Physically putting the motor in is the easy part. I had at least 150hrs of labor and i had the entire donor car to grab parts from. I would imagine anothe 50-100hrs if i had to source a bunch of stuff. Also a cup car motor has a 150-200 hr life cycle. U would also need a trans and that may run up to $25k. It would probably be cheaper to just buy a higher milage gt3, sell your car and have the motor in reserve. Whats your budget, as anything is possible.
So i splurged a little and jumped on a good deal on a fvd (m&m) cup exhaust set up. The system is off a 997 gt3 so its a center output. I still have to decide if im gonna try to fit side tail pipes or a muffler delete pipe. I do have the rear bumper off the donor car that i could cut and make it work. Just dont know if i have enough time for any of the solutions.
I decided on titanium.manifold studs. Got them from accross the pond as they were half the cost of the brand sold in the states. Also, I was happy that even with the mufflers this system was 2lbs lighter then the factory sytem with fabspeed cans.
Looks absolutely sick! Nice performance exhausts look so good on a 911 makes you want to drive with no bumper so others can admire the engineering Look forward to hearing it!
Physically putting the motor in is the easy part. I had at least 150hrs of labor and i had the entire donor car to grab parts from. I would imagine anothe 50-100hrs if i had to source a bunch of stuff. Also a cup car motor has a 150-200 hr life cycle. U would also need a trans and that may run up to $25k. It would probably be cheaper to just buy a higher milage gt3, sell your car and have the motor in reserve. Whats your budget, as anything is possible.
thanks for all the info, my engine is fine. I’m better off putting a 3.6 or 3.8 when the time comes, a lot more cost effective. I’m taking the turbo to 625 hp and that’s going to be fun.
Looks absolutely sick! Nice performance exhausts look so good on a 911 makes you want to drive with no bumper so others can admire the engineering Look forward to hearing it!
Me too. Ill have to wait on the fuel sender. It had to be shipped from germany but my dealer can rush for a fee. Hopefully its here next week.
Originally Posted by 3/98 911 coupe
thanks for all the info, my engine is fine. I’m better off putting a 3.6 or 3.8 when the time comes, a lot more cost effective. I’m taking the turbo to 625 hp and that’s going to be fun.
Usually the veiw of most when the big picture is presented. Thats where the turbo should have been from the factory . Good luck.
02-25-2023, 02:14 PM
Look forward to hearing it!
. Good luck.