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The stud was fine. It only took me a few minutes to take it back apart and fix it but then i went out for national margerita day. Not really worth posting a pic of diner as its never as crazy as Louis meals . Ill be home soon to put it all back together again.
So im a little dissapointed in myself for not getting the entire undercarage back together but i did have to drop the trans a 3rd time for another stud the ripped out. At least the drivetrain is secure.
De Jeeper, impressive next round of upgrades. Imho, everyone should be following this thread if they want a real world road map to build a 996 Clubsport. Interested to see if/how the new exhaust system improves performance.
Interested to see if/how the new exhaust system improves performance.
Me too but im 99% sure i will need to get a tune for this motor. Its well documented their is a dead spot between 3-5k rpm. Ill probably get a fvd tuner because its their exhaust and they will upgrade the program for free if i decide to get their plenum and tb.
Me too but im 99% sure i will need to get a tune for this motor. Its well documented their is a dead spot between 3-5k rpm. Ill probably get a fvd tuner because its their exhaust and they will upgrade the program for free if i decide to get their plenum and tb.
Makes sense. I will eventually go to their m&m headers and replace my software with theirs. Their software program is very well thought out.
Well its been a couple of days of 2 steps foward and 1 step back. The trans and all associated parts r back in the car, rear caliper studs r in with new pagid yellows, rear tow arms replaced, rear bumper off and exhaust is basically out. Just waiting on the crate from CA to make it east.
This weekend ill get the front wheel bearings, brake fluid flush, front brake pads and caliper studs done and the front tow arms. Il also add some shims to the front gt3 arms to push out to 3.8* of camber.
So the one step back is the pass side axle boot is split. May have just done it while it was on the lift because there is no grease anywhere and its open 360*. I have already ordered the parts from FCPeuro. I have to break that corner back down this weekend too.
One bit of good news is i found out i have an underdrive crank pulley already on my car. It is steel and i am not sure the manufacturer so im still gonna swap it for the light weight aluminum Evomms unit.
I will have a set of good adjustable rear toe arms and an underdrive pulley for sale if someone needs them.
Girodisc caliper studs r very high quality and designed for the spacers. Rsr trunion style conection for the rear tow arm. No more tre ends.
You might want rear toe lockout plates now that you have the adjustable arms. The crank pulley will only fit Mezger engines, I think. And the rear CV boots are 928 parts which I found amusing when I bought them.
I do like the caliper studs; prevents stripping out the expensive RSR uprights you have! I put those in last year and they worked really well.
I guess ill let the turbo guys know about the pulley .
I do have the eccentric lock outs already. They r a must when moving to adjustable tow arms.
Fcp had the boot kit for under $11 each so a cheap but pita fix. The other side axle was new last year because it broke when the wheel bearing failed at Watkins.
This thread covers so much ground. Continued excellent work and descriptions.
What would be really cool is if Rennlist had an index feature for each thread. The thread starter could action it's use and add items as the thread moves from topic to topic. Then, when a newby comes across it, or an oldie trying to remember, they can go to the index and find things more easily.
Hey Dejeeper I think I would leave the steel underdrive pulley on the car, it is probably a "Cup" item.
I remember I big issue back then with people removing the stock Dual-Mass flywheels and installing the LWFW and sometimes the crank pulley would vibrate off the crank and damage the crank..
Porsche issued a TSB advising dealers NOT to install Cup LWFW on standard GT3's as it was not approved and would void Warranty..( and could damage crankshaft)..
The scuttlebutt from owners was that they didn't see why the LWFW has this effect on Gt3 and not Cup Engines since they have the exact same internal parts.............There was never an Official answer/explanation from Porsche, but they stood fast on the Policy, so it was " it's all on you if you do this" .....
My theory as to why the Gt3 is more effected than the Cup Engines by doing away with the dual-mass flywheel is that I believe that even though the CUP and Gt3 have all the same internal parts, I think the Cup engines are balanced to a higher degree......( although a have no "official evidence" of this ) ....but I know the Carrera engines pistons and rods are weight matched to 3 grams, which is not great at all when most shops balance down to 1 gram or even .5 grams......My theory is that "Cup Engines" are balanced down to less than 1 gram where standard GT3 engines are not...just MHO..
I believe the engine you have is a Cup engine and I would leave the steel underdrive pulley on and not put the aluminum one on, "steel is stronger than aluminum".......and they have a different frequency at which harmonic vibration influences/excites them..
My theory as to why the Gt3 is more effected than the Cup Engines by doing away with the dual-mass flywheel is that I believe that even though the CUP and Gt3 have all the same internal parts, I think the Cup engines are balanced to a higher degree
This is correct as far as I have been able to trace it. Also the turbo engines are not balanced even as well as a GT3 engine; was not needed with the 6500 RPM redline. Better balancing and getting rid of the dual stage intake lifters lets it rev to 8000+.
I installed the 11 pound 964RS flywheel - same unit as De Jeeper - and took it out after 300 miles because it was so horrid to drive. I liked the zingyness when rev matching, the NOISE from the transmission I could not stand. I also think the extra vibrations were partially responsible for breaking the question-mark shaped oil vent hose and spewing oil all over.
Supposedly there is a damper front pulley that mitigates the vibrations. Anyway until I rebuild the engine and blueprint/balance it I'm staying with the DMF.
I have also read the issues with the pulley and a lwfw. The motor is a gt3 block but i was told it had head work done. Dont think the bottom end was ever touched.
I rechecked the underdrive pulley issue. It turns out the turbo engine has a larger pulley but the gt3 comes factory with a steel underdrive (like mine does). The cup car comes with an aluminum light weight underdrive pulley. In 2010 the 3.8l gt3 also got the aluminum pulley.
As far as i can find all of the pulley faliures were in turbo motors when a lwfw was installed. Its also recommended that the 6-cup lw crank pully should be used even on the gt3 but it is now NLA. The Evoms unit is even lighter and according to their fea anaysis its stronger at the mating surface to eliminate the loosening issue.
So now that i have removed the dmf and installed the rs style lwfw the Evoms pulley seems to be the best solution.
i daily drive a dual disk clutch in a dodge with a cummins and a 10speed peterbuilt....i guessing the clutch rattle will not bother me.
Ok, just wanted to make sure you was aware and had your big boy pants on...Btw, I thought your engine was a "Cup" engine, no?
Nope the entire car was a factory vin 2004 gt3. I dont think i would want a cup. They burn the candle so bright the refresh is 100-150hr....that would toooooo much for my wallet.
02-22-2023, 09:23 PM
. Ill be home soon to put it all back together again.
