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Its a flicker light, from an old gas lantern ugh!!!
Chipping away at the instrument cluster. I've updated the VIN number in it now but still can't do anything about removing the tiptronic signal the cluster is STILL looking for.
Almost at the point where I'm going to look for a used manual .2 C4S cluster. Probably a waste of $.
I'm not 100% sure about this as it's been a decade since I have done it, but I think you need to go into "instrument cluster" and then to "programing" and it will ask you to verify some things like maybe engine type, transmission type, ect. after you answer/select the correct options/questions, it will ask you if you are sure you want to re-program?.. click "yes"...lol..
All the relevant different programs are stored in the PIWIS tester.
Oh, before you start, run a "VAL" ( Vehicle Analysis Log), it will list all the current hardware and software numbers and lots of other stuff. Then after you re-program, run it again, and compare the software numbers for before and after the re-program..
I'm not 100% sure about this as it's been a decade since I have done it, but I think you need to go into "instrument cluster" and then to "programing" and it will ask you to verify some things like maybe engine type, transmission type, ect. after you answer/select the correct options/questions, it will ask you if you are sure you want to re-program?.. click "yes"...lol..
All the relevant different programs are stored in the PIWIS tester.
Oh, before you start, run a "VAL" ( Vehicle Analysis Log), it will list all the current hardware and software numbers and lots of other stuff. Then after you re-program, run it again, and compare the software numbers for before and after the re-program..
Cheers for the reply.
Pretty sure I've done all that but I'll go through it again one last time tonight, maybe I did miss something. I want to say I get to the cluster but when I dive in further, it stops at the country code (ie it's blank). I'll try to get a pic.
I'll break out the PIWIS I, My PIWIS II laptop is not happy with me now as the USB drivers don't recognize the tester anymore. FUN!! haha
sooooooo a HUGE thanks to @Mpfaff is in order for this one.
I plugged in the cluster he sent me and voila, no more "tiptronic emergency run" error message. After about 30 seconds, that gas gauge started to rise as well.
Went for a quick ride and it was so nice to feel the engine at full song again. I'll drive it around as is for a few days to make sure...but I don't expect that the fault will come back after that drive. Fingers crossed.
New cluster has the navigation module in it, so it's looking for the PCM. Hence the 9114 code. I'll sort that out at a later date but for now I'm not going to mess with it....
So for now, my concensus is that you need a manual cluster to do this swap. PIWIS I nor PIWIS II could code the tiptronic out from my original cluster.
How long did it take to swap the cluster? I need to do this still and I think you’re one of the only other Tip to 6MT swappers!
Long live those willing to take a little risk! or are we just a little crazy???
I can have that dash pod out in a couple of minutes now. I'd say 10 minute to fully remove the dash pod and have the cluster separated from it. hardest part is getting the hazard switch disconnected. I've done it a hundred times now hahaha.
But now the tach has stopped working on both clusters. I swapped the original in but nada. Surely not a coincidence but possibly something in the car wiring. Ordered a new set of connectors for the back (blue/green/grey) but that didn't sort it. I have rpm signal at the OBD plug and everything else in the cluster works perfectly well. Car drives great as well. Weird.... Back in the e30 days, it meant the SI board batteries were taking a dump.
I'm going to see if there is any way to bench test the tach.
last day of COVID quarantine and finally have some energy/desire to do something.
Took my old tiptroinic cluster apart to diagnose. After multimeter tests were no help, I decided to pop the cover off the stepper motor. You can see where the worm gear came out of its guide and therefore not turning the needle. It must have happened when I pulled the needles off the gauges to swap the faces. Went back to my second cluster, same thing. Popped the gear back in the notch and it worked perfectly fine as well. Since I was on a roll, I pulled out my third (parts) cluster and fixed that stepper motor as well. Now I have 3 clusters, 1 tiptronic and 2 manual.
you can see how the stepper motor cases had come apart, this must have been when I removed the needles.
Here you can see where the end of the worm gear popped out of its "notch"
popped back in its place...
This also fixed my "parts" cluster! Just need to sort out the right hand side display and get the *****, then I'll have a spare manual cluster. Kinda chuffed about that.
Last edited by e30rapidic; 07-03-2022 at 08:25 PM.
had a weird slow start happen twice so put a new Y cable in, seems to have fixed it. Easy swap, just removed the airbox, throttle body and rear intake plenum, couple of nuts and done. I did pop off there plastic terminal cover so I could thread it through between the AC compressor and the intake. Maybe 30 minutes after all was said and done.
Decided to tackle the e30, new brake pads and new hydraulic fluid. The old fluid was NASTY. Proof it doesn't do cars any good to just sit.
new Y cable
popped this plastic piece off so I could feed it through tight spaces.
This is all I took off to swap the Y cable out.
old Y cable had a little corrosion.
tiny e30 brake pad!
almost comical
nasty hydraulic fluid from the e30, car has mostly sat for a couple of years. The black fluid on the left came from the clutch line. wow!
Not much has happened lately, been enjoying the last bit of summer.
Had PaloAltoSpeedometer correct the mileage to the car. No frills there but the transmission swap is now 100%....
Resprayed the cowling with trim paint, looks so much better.
Finally got the last of the suspension overhaul done, inner and outer tie rods. Passenger side was simple but the insert came out of the spindle on the drivers side. Hit up the local parts store for their loaner tool and popped it off. Pulled the toe plates and laser out for an alignment on the lift and the car tracks straight and the steering wheel is centered!!
Slow crank was still happening a bit after the y cable swap so put a new starter in.
Next weekend, back to the Tail of the Dragon, Cherohala Skyway and some other roads in the area. Looking forward to it!
Still going strong: smooth shifts, no error messages or check lights, and enjoying every minute of it...
I decided to purchase the Function First shifter rebuild and cable ends combo. Installed the console bits today and the shift action feels so much better. Throw is obviously the same but the shifts and shift pattern are so much tighter and feels more gated now. The 5-4 shift is so much crisper too.
Cable ends will be replaced once I get the car back one the lift. No hurry there...
Great progress! I have an OEM 997 SSK in my car which I really like but have been contemplating if that bushing upgrade would be a noticeable upgrade. Btw, do you know the part number for the HVAC frame and shelve unit in one? Didn't know they came like that - only as separate.
05-19-2022, 02:24 AM
