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Continuing to work in the Tiptronic to manual conversion underworld.
is there anybody that may have a later style circuit board from a manual C4 or C4S instrument cluster they’d let go for cheap? Or let me borrow to download the code. Or better yet, download and share the coding!!
I’ve been working with someone on their swap and they are way more advanced in the electronic and programming world that I am. We’re collectively trying to sort out the hidden differences on the fuel tank size algorithms for a 2 vs. 4 wheel drive 996.
Our goal is to download and compare the fuel usage formula hidden in the cluster. Hoping to help future swappers to be able to use c2 clusters in a C4/S and vice versa. Cheers!
Replaced new stuff with newer and better. Developed a random click in the upper strut mount so put new upper mounts and bearings in, along with Rennline bump steer adjuster kit.
String, toe plates, degree level, and tape measure alignment on my lift but a quick trip around the block says all is well.
Pulled and rebuilt the front CV joints as well, easy to do but super messy. No need to remove any suspension pieces, just a brace and crossmember!
When rebuilding the axles, did you replace any of the internal parts, or just clean everything, repack with grease, and put on new boots? If you used a kit, where did you get it?
When rebuilding the axles, did you replace any of the internal parts, or just clean everything, repack with grease, and put on new boots? If you used a kit, where did you get it?
Everything inside the CV joints was in good shape and moved freely/quietly, just that the outer boots were torn and leaking. None of the internal parts were grooved, shiny, or pitted, so I reused them.
I got the re-boot kits with grease, clamps and new snap rings from FCPEuro. About $80 and I have "like new" CV axles again. It was a messy job though, went through 2 rolls of paper towels!
4 wheel alignment time; old skool but worked out well.
Im amazed at how acurate i can be with a few strings and a ruler. At $250-300 a pop for a shop alignment it equates to an extra track day of savings every time i make an adjustment.
Awesome job rebuilding the engine yourself and converting to manual. Crazy how bad that original engine was in the bores. Would you say you came out ahead with the purchase just from the engine rebuild standpoint? Or was it a wash but you got a 4.0 out of it?
Bumper and wing repair looks good. Did you paint the bumper yourself?
Awesome job rebuilding the engine yourself and converting to manual. Crazy how bad that original engine was in the bores. Would you say you came out ahead with the purchase just from the engine rebuild standpoint? Or was it a wash but you got a 4.0 out of it?
Bumper and wing repair looks good. Did you paint the bumper yourself?
Thanks!! 😊
If I was to sell as is (assuming I'd get comps on what a 3.6 manual C4S is going for), I'd still make a few bucks on it..... but the knowledge gained is priceless.
I'd like to think I'd get a bit more out of it for being an "almost like brand new" car with super low 4.0 engine but who knows. I enjoy the car and wouldn't consider selling though unless a random offer came up above $50k.
I did paint the bumper and wing myself, it needs another round of wet sanding now that its fully cured but I'll wait a bit on that. I'm currently touching up every paint chip by hand and paint refurbishing one panel at a time. So it will take a while....
Bought yet another cluster (now have 4 but donated 1), this latest one is from a manual C4S. Determined to crack the fuel gauge level thing…..
Found a piece of foam lodged in the air vent, so did the blend door fix. Got both blend doors done from accessing behind the radio. Never removed the heater core.
Lastly, I decided to add a 5 channel Alpine amp in the trunk and get rid of the MOST adapter stuff. De-pinned the oem amplifier connector and clipped to the wires there, rather than cut anything up, and added wiring around the underside of the frunk carpeting. Sounds a lot better but I still want more highs, so will look to replace the stock dash speakers soon.
Last edited by e30rapidic; 09-28-2023 at 02:54 PM.
Well, stuff just went sideways. Filling in rock chips on the wings and frunk by hand became an "F all this" moment. If I'm going to this much effort, I may as well paint the whole thing. Rear bumper and frunk were my test panels, feathering check using crappy black spray paint primer I had laying around.
Paint prep for the whole car now. I mean, what could possibly go wrong? I've watched enough videos to become a certified YouTube certified painter....
A little update....Learned a lot about bodywork and painting and can appreciate the cost and effort of a quality paint job. I still have to buff the whole car and put all of the missing bits back on. I'll take the door handles out disassemble them for paint when the time comes. Would I do this again? Yes. But I'll move the car over a bay and buy an inflatable spray booth.
This week is out due to the holidays but hopefully I can get it finished the week after. I'll re-tint the rear lights and give them a polish.
I still want yellow seat belts...
prep work
test fitting the bumperette patches I made. look at that factory orange peel
plastic welding and plastic filler
home made paint booth
had to be done
paint booth selfie
new oem wing test fit. Everything from a regular Carrera bolted up. Bracket on the extendable hinge is different though.
larger C4S bracket, versus the regular bracket
rear bumperettes are gone
heading outside to get some curing time
and now on to wetsanding
all sanded, 1k, 1.5k, 2k, 3k, 5k. A few ares need redoing but hey, it's my first time.
functional wing in place, may leave the rear Carrera 4S emblems off
no front license plate holes or frunk badge holes
Last edited by e30rapidic; 11-19-2023 at 08:01 PM.
I had thought about it!! appreciate your comment
08-31-2023, 03:31 PM
