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Hehe… as I’ve said before, the bolts work ok for me and for the $150 (I’m making this up, really no idea how much the stud conversion and lug nuts cost), I’ll save the money. Plus, the bolts a known QTY on this car, re-torque after 1st session and generally they perfect for the rest of the day.
Here’s why I specifically should not have called out @De Jeeper
1. @De Jeeper is so Gucci he is using a lift
2. He’s got like 100 sets of wheels and tires, he gets a ton of practice
3. Despite being Gucci as F… he’s a much better mechanic then I am.
All things considered, I’m saying the fact it was as close as it was with a ham fisted mechanic behind the studs should lead to an easy victory declared to studs.
Here’s why I specifically should not have called out @De Jeeper
1. @De Jeeper is so Gucci he is using a lift
2. He’s got like 100 sets of wheels and tires, he gets a ton of practice
3. Despite being Gucci as F… he’s a much better mechanic then I am.
All things considered, I’m saying the fact it was as close as it was with a ham fisted mechanic behind the studs should lead to an easy victory declared to studs.
Those are the facts of the case.
He also removed and installed a wheel, and had to bend down.(Old guy here who notices the extra motion required)
If his lift was lower he would have been even faster.
Time to start a gofundme for a set of wheel stud for zbomb.
Someone(s) pony up $76 for a set of 70mm rear studs( https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...01467ecs01kt8/ ) and I'll send zbomb my lightly used 56mm front studs & lug nuts.
Last edited by TexSquirrel; 06-27-2022 at 04:54 PM.
I appreciate the call to charity but I feel like I have boxed myself in a corner as the lone bolt defender and I just wouldn’t feel right turning my back on them.
And in all seriousness, the reliability I have experienced with them at the track makes me not want to change.
I appreciate the call to charity but I feel like I have boxed myself in a corner as the lone bolt defender and I just wouldn’t feel right turning my back on them.
And in all seriousness, the reliability I have experienced with them at the track makes me not want to change.
But thanks Bruce - you’re a hell of a guy 👍
Well, let me know if you change your mind and I'll help you improve front tire mounting.
Otherwise I'll save it for my Boxster/next 996.
I appreciate the call to charity but I feel like I have boxed myself in a corner as the lone bolt defender and I just wouldn’t feel right turning my back on them.
And in all seriousness, the reliability I have experienced with them at the track makes me not want to change.
But thanks Bruce - you’re a hell of a guy 👍
Well, I don't track, but I am sticking with bolts as well; so you're not alone. I actually have two tire hangers that I use, which makes it very easy. Raise the tire to align one hanger, rotate until the second is aligned, then slide the tire into place. Put in three bolts, remove hangers, put in remaining two. Easy.
Weather was crap tonight so elected to drop the car off in the AM and, she's ready. Got the ABS issue fixed, I swapped the wheel speed and brake wear sensor (thats jumped) on the right rear. Took the opportunity to get the wheel weights taped up.
Vacuumed out a **** ton of shavings, metal and lexan principally and the inside of the car is relatively presentable.
Topped off the oil, running 11.75 QTS, a couple ticks over filled on the dip stock.
Did notice that I will likely have some work to do with front tire clearance, I'm not worrying about it too much since who knows where the alignment is, looks relatively close to targeted ride height and it gets into the liner at about 3/4 lock. Maybe enough for the track but will go and do the bracket mod @powdrhound has posted HERE previously when the car comes back from alignment shop.
If anyone has 10 stock lug bolts I can get in a real super hurry, please send me a PM.
Weather was crap tonight so elected to drop the car off in the AM and, she's ready. Got the ABS issue fixed, I swapped the wheel speed and brake wear sensor (thats jumped) on the right rear. Took the opportunity to get the wheel weights taped up.
Vacuumed out a **** ton of shavings, metal and lexan principally and the inside of the car is relatively presentable.
Topped off the oil, running 11.75 QTS, a couple ticks over filled on the dip stock.
Did notice that I will likely have some work to do with front tire clearance, I'm not worrying about it too much since who knows where the alignment is, looks relatively close to targeted ride height and it gets into the liner at about 3/4 lock. Maybe enough for the track but will go and do the bracket mod @powdrhound has posted HERE previously when the car comes back from alignment shop.
If anyone has 10 stock lug bolts I can get in a real super hurry, please send me a PM.
I mean, I do, but only if you promise to beat the pit stop challenge and video it. Wearing a baby bonnet.Seriously though, I do have my originals sitting in a tankard on the shelf. I'm in NC, I can UPS them to you. I imagine you could get them by Friday? Pm me if you want them. edit: Forgot to mention @zbomb the lug bolts are silver, and came off a 2001 C2 Narrow Body with 17" wheels. If that matters.
Last edited by damage98MO; 06-28-2022 at 12:20 PM.
The Porsche Motorsport RSR LCAs virtually eliminate the exact problems detailed here. No ball joint tool required. If you need to separate those arms from the wheel carrier you can simply remove the Torx bolt from the bottom of the outer heim joint and pull the arm off of the trunnion pin. It's a 2 minute process. Various length trunnion pins are also available to allow you to adjust roll centers. Same exact concept applies to the tie rods and toe arms where you simply remove the bottom nut and pull of the outer heim joint off of the trunnion pin. Just food for thought if looking at replacement LCA and tie rod options at some point.....
@powdrhound Any more info on these as far sourcing parts for the LCA.. FYI i sent you a PM as well.. don't want to hijack Jason's thread
06-27-2022, 04:35 PM
