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Well, its a turnkey product, so I'd hope so. But... for what I would want excruciatingly expensive.
Hopefully when I'm done and sorted folks can use my setup as a resource to follow (if it works )... It's not always pretty watching the sausage being made but I find the process to be part of the fun so I share the highs and the lows.
I hope it works so we can see the cost break down and compare to a turn key setup...
Got the hard part out of the way on the lexan door windows.
Started with cutting my window out of another sheet of home depot lexan. Came out looking pretty good so I moved on to attaching it to the door. For this, I used a total of 5 riv nuts I installed in the door frame. 3 M6 and 2 M5. I was very happy I was able to get the riv nuts in the actual door frame. Ended up not having all the hardware I needed to install, but I did have enough for mock up and this solution seems like its going to work very well. The window tucks right under the factory weather stripping which should mean that it keeps the inside relatively dry and it should be out of the wind nicely.
Door frame with riv nuts installed.
And with the window mocked up.
My final plan for mounting is to get some countersink washers from McMaster and glue them to the window and then use a phillips screw to secure. Should take under a minute to remove or reinstall.
Tomorrow I'll get the other side cut, the the black boarder painted and just be waiting on the hardware to be done.
Socal... I like, I actually was thinking about just drilling the countersink right into the lexan but decided to use the countersink washers in hopes they give me some purchase when removing so I don't have to touch the actual lexan... the stuff scratches if you look at if funny. Most of the time on track, the windows will be removed so, in this particular case, aero came secondary to aesthetics.
in this particular case, aero came secondary to aesthetics.
My streamlining comment was more tongue in cheek.
I was thinking that the Tinnerman washers have more area for glue to bond to the Lexan panels than the other style.
Hi Jason,
Since you're gutting the car and putting in a full weld in cage, you might think about removing the transverse floating crash bar that runs from one side of the car to the other across the tunnel. None of the Cup tubs have it, it's only added to the street tubs and serves no purpose once you have a cage in there. From what I recall, it's over 20lbs worth. We simply welded a piece of sheet metal over it to close it off.... Deleting the parking brake will shave a few pounds also...
Thanks John - saw that while drooling over the fab work in your build - 20 LBS from the rear of the car is pretty significant.
Budget constraints on the fab side will likely mean I forgo - maybe I'll see if my buddy @De Jeeper wants to come take a winter vacation to MA and hook me up.
Thanks John - saw that while drooling over the fab work in your build - 20 LBS from the rear of the car is pretty significant.
Budget constraints on the fab side will likely mean I forgo - maybe I'll see if my buddy @De Jeeper wants to come take a winter vacation to MA and hook me up.
Understood Jason. Yeah, it’s some additional labor for sure and I didn’t know if you were doing that yourself. We essentially cut out every tab, bar, and/or support that is not present in a Cup tub. It all adds up in weight but yes, it’s additional labor for sure. Bulk of it consists of a case of beer, a harbor freight cut off wheel along with a half days time and you can make short order of this.
Oh, I can get the bar out... the cut off wheel and spot weld bit are good friends, it's getting sheet metal to close up the gap left by the bar put back in a semi presentable fashion that I can't do.
I have a cup chassis here, you've got me curious to take a closer look at what that area looks like on it.
Saw the updates in your thread, the blue interior looking mucho classy !
Oh, I can get the bar out... the cut off wheel and spot weld bit are good friends, it's getting sheet metal to close up the gap left by the bar put back in a semi presentable fashion that I can't do.
I have a cup chassis here, you've got me curious to take a closer look at what that area looks like on it.
Saw the updates in your thread, the blue interior looking mucho classy !
Thanks. Jason. I honestly didn't know all the nuances and the differences but Chris Cervelli was in charge of stripping all that out and he has intimate knowledge of what is (and is not) in the Cup tubs. You can see that once painted the tunnel area looks very "clean". You can also see how the parking brake area where the cables come though the tub has been "closed up" and cleaned up. The car has a ton of dust on it so you can barely see it as it's sitting at the shop body shop scheduled for 2 more coats of paint on the inside. They're just getting started. Incidentally, the sheet metal used to close up the tunnel came from the roof panel which we are swapping for a lightweight CF roof section. Talk about repurposing parts! Looking forward to seeing your project come together. Real nice job on the Lexan!
Last edited by powdrhound; 01-09-2022 at 11:49 AM.
Incidentally, the sheet metal used to close up the tunnel came from the roof panel which we are swapping for a lightweight CF roof section. Talk about repurposing parts!
I love that kind of stuff.
Originally Posted by powdrhound
Looking forward to seeing your project come together!
Likewise John. Thanks for the input as well, it's much appreciated.
Wow, nice cage!
I’ve been thinking about trying Lexan, but getting to the mounting inside would be tough with my bolt-in 4-point rollbar.
It looks like it would be impossible to do with your cage without using a really long extension and multiple u-joints.
Wow, nice cage!
I’ve been thinking about trying Lexan, but getting to the mounting inside would be tough with my bolt-in 4-point rollbar.
It looks like it would be impossible to do with your cage without using a really long extension and multiple u-joints.
We are using an OEM RS rear Lexan window which gets glued in from the outside so not problem there. The side Lexan windows are the slotted OEM 996Cup and accessibility with that cage is easy to the side windows since the harness attachment bars are on the rear portion of the cage. Being skinny always helps with any of these cages.
01-07-2022, 10:51 AM
)... It's not always pretty watching the sausage being made but I find the process to be part of the fun so I share the highs and the lows.
