nothingbutgt3

So as a logical consequence, for using them with stock camshafts, mechanical rocker arms aren't well invested.
there wouldn't be any advantage with stock camshafts?

the part of the rocker arms that interacts with the camshaft has a surface treatment or is it just same as metal the rest of the rocker arm?

Sorry Cobalt, I didnt get what you are saying: I have the 95 hydraulic lifters, to be reworked, if I go for originality, otherwise I already have the 964 mechanical lifters, already rebuilt and ready to be used in a 964 (or 9o3) engine.
From what I got from Churchill, if I would like to use them on my 993 engine, I need to rework the inner side of the bearings, replicating same groove that is present on the 993 lifters that are without bearings and use the 993 rocker shafts.

is there something more to know?

What can I expect from 964 mechanical rocker arms mod but with stock camshafts, stock pre varioram heads and varioram intake? Would it produce some kind of improvement?

Churchill

No, no improvement at all. You only backdate the rockers if you need to because of other mods. There is no performance gain on stock or even RS cams. I would love to be able to run hydraulic rockers on my 993, they're better than the old style.

cobalt

Sorry the mechanical rockers if you look closely have two holes used to lubricate the bearing and shaft. Splash oil is fed through these holes and in the earlier engines there is a feed tube that sprays oil towards the rockers to feed oil through these holes vs via the shaft. If you use stock rockers with stock holes on 993 shafts you will lose oil pressure through them. Pressing in new bushings will close these holes.

I agree about the cams I thought that was already discussed but could have been a different thread. Otherwise weight was the other upside by modifying the stock 993 rockers.

nothingbutgt3

I am going for the hydraulic ones, the mechanic I will either sell or take on the shelf for the second engine, even though I don't know if for the application I have in mind they will suit for the purpose.

Meanwhile I was taking some shots, placing parts, nuts, bolts, on the table to see what is still missing... Mainly small parts to get ready for engine rebuild



And then one to the ABS hydraulic unit with ABD next to what looks like its gemini, from 94 BMW Serie 5, which I fact was equipped with ESP as well...the box is totally identical, what I still have to understand is if the electric rotor has exactly the same characteristics, but I bet they are.



Bosch managed the situation not to make two exactly identical units just by giving different Diameter of the screw at the two threaded seats that go on the left and right rear axle, where the two cylinders that seem to have the function of pressure reducers must be inserted. (I will see if I can reuse them).

I doesn't make any sense to me that the BMW unit had two different diameters for the rear brakes... While Porsche had same (the smaller one) diameter.

The fact is a used Porsche 993 unit costs no less than 900 euro, a BMW unit in perfect conditions costs less than 100 and there are hundreds more available.

The only think is to move the cylindrical barrels from a unit to the other, by inserting a reduction of the bigger diameter on the BMW unit.
I will try it to see if it works, I bet it'll do.

Meanwhile I'll be searching for a used unit as well

nothingbutgt3

Pre-varioram throttle body ugly, but in perfectly working condition


Secondary oil filter housing, ugly as well and totally reusable, but I will change it

I am not going to reuse the original pre-varioram throttle body (since I'll use the complete varioram intake), although it is in perfectly working condition, but it looks exactly as bad as the secondary oil filter housing... I am not going to reuse none of such demaged parts, so I am considering to change also the camshaft housings with used but in perfect condition ones.

Basically the aluminum engine parts I'll use for the rebuild, apart from the crankcase, which has a very mild pitting (thank you magnesium fan housing!) , are corrosion free, because they will come from donor engines.

The steel parts, like crankshaft, camshafts, rods, pins, rocker arms, valves, springs, most of the studs, are all from the original engine and are totally corrosion free: so they have been checked, eventually revised (rocker arms need to) and reinstalled.

I am going to replace the head and connecting rods steel studs and bolts with the ones from ARP, while the crankcase studs will be reused.

All the contact bearings will be changed (although they look like new), as much as the piston rings, all the rubber seals, roller bearings, sensors, etc.

I am also considering to use stainless steel nuts on the engine case and gearbox perimeter. Do they exist?

nothingbutgt3

Technical question: is it possible to use the standard steering rack, without coupling it with the hydraulic assistance?

I would like to remove the pump from the engine, and maybe later add an electric one.

cobalt

Yes it can be done but you would need to fill the unit and plumb it so the oil can move through the unit. Not quite the same as the manual racks. The electric pump is nice I am using one. The motorsports pump can be had cheap if you know what other cars they are used on.

nothingbutgt3

I am considering to enlarge the track width front and rear to make an RSR tribute of it (as I originally started) instead of an RS CS: I don't remember where, but I read that the front axle subframe must be moved outer, is it true? And if yes, how?

Churchill

Just unbolt the power steering fluid lines from it, and plug the bolt holes with shallow 10mm bolts (if I recall correctly). Steering will be heavy. Electric pumps are cool (I ran one for a while) but the factory setup is fine. If you have to buy all the parts anyway, I'd go electric.

k722070

post #72 thru #81 have pics and description
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ng-wide-5.html

the holes are already in the tub, should be a cork like object plugging the extra hole.
the cross member needs to be drilled, but the correct hole placements are 'ghosted' on the exterior and already drilled inside.

TexasPorschelover

My jaw is on the floor. Amazing. I read every word and cannot wait for the next update.

cobalt

If you mover the longitudinals to the outer setting you will need to rotate the top hats 180 degrees as well. If you leave the upper hats in the narrow body setting you will have excessive negative camber. You will also need a front sway for a widebody car or 964 turbo. Other option is making spacers for the drop links.

ADDvanced

Wow. I think I need a drink, as I just perused this entire thread, and I commend you on such a bold decision to save this vehicle. I also appreciate your desire to reuse as much of the car's parts as possible, and I think in areas that are not super visible, it would most likely be fine as long as parts are cleaned/prepped/inspected to be functional.

That said... I think reusing the wiring harness is a really bad idea. I will use the analogy to speaker wires on hifi stereo systems; many speaker wires have 'clear' insulation, and when you buy the wiring it shows bright clean copper underneath the insulation. I've used this style of wire many times both in home and automotive applications. In automotive applications, the wiring is protected from the elements by being inside doors, behind the dash, and running along the rockers. A few years later, this same wiring will look black/green with oxidation of the copper, from moisture seeping into the 'ends' of the insulation. Even in home theater applications, the humidity in the air will turn that bright shiny copper to a dull black in a few short years. I'm guessing that even if this were just a normal 993 that did not decide to take a swim, you may have wiring harness problems at this point purely from age.

I understand your intentions to reuse parts, but I would suggest finding a used fusebox and a brand new wiring harness if possible.

Good luck, and thank you for your efforts, this is officially the most insane build I've seen so far in 2020.

nothingbutgt3

Thank you very much for your very logical and argued words: as you have correctly understood, if a part can be saved, I am going to try saving it.
Maybe the electrical system is still working fine, but my very point is another one: do I really want to find myself with the car finally all assembled and experience an electrical issue?
More than this, I am putting all my mental and resource related effort to make a coherent rebuild of it: the engine will be rebuilt to a 0 hours 0 km specs, same as gearbox, wheels carrier, suspensions, chassis, so the same has to be done for the rest as well.
Luckily I finally found the entire wiring harness of a 95 carrera 2, from a donor car that never flew in the water or never got submerged.

I should have also found a more convenient source for gesrbox bearings, let's see.

But again, I am never going to renounce even to a single gram (or ounce, as you like) of the original quality, which in fact, if it is has to move in some direction, it must be to an higher quality level (or same as brand new), never lower.

Thank you Churchill, I am going to go the electrical power assisted way, as it was for the RSR.
I need to find the right position where to put the electrical pump, i.e. to find the steel support and the exact position where it should be welded, now that the body is still naked and without any primer.

This is simply amazing, it is probably something like 15/20 mm outer from the standard position!
this way the A-arms are shifted out and the strut should consequently have a slightly lower angle.

You are lucky english it's not my language, otherwise I would have written a poem

You mean the top mounts?
I am planning to go with the MCS suspension set up, 3 ways adjustable (the ones with the short struts): Wyatt said he will provide them together with their monoball top mounts.
I must inform him about this specific aspect.
The front swaybar of the RS cannot be used?

In germany I already found the BBS E29, which should have same shape as the E28 with magnesium center, but they should have it in aluminum alloy, and from what I could track down so far, they were (the E28) originally installed on the RSR and GT2 EVO versions, but the ones I found are from the 996 cup, maybe I will have to change the outer and inner barrels to adjust the channel and offset.
I saw that Juha had 265 front and 305 rear...W O W, impressive!
If I will be able to get to the final target of installing a 420+ engine, grip will be really welcome.

Now I am literally in overflow, I would like to find sometime for writing about the whole story, in english.
Middle September I am going again to drive to Germany and should be back with the 4 bbs wheels to be restored and painted (probably) bbs bronze, get the entire wiring harness, the missing underbody parts, fuel lines and other smaller parts, then the 997 gt3 crankshaft and oil pump, the camshaft housings and the 959 intermediate shaft with its sprockets.
Some parts are for the step 2 engine that I don't know if it will ever see the sunlight, but in any case, if things don't change, will be probably created starting from a 964 '92 engine, due to better cost effectiveness. But this only after the car will be already running with its original engine and gearbox.

People tell me this project speaks by itself, maybe they see it from a commercial point of view, and maybe they are right: I see it as a way to express myself (I don't know if this is the only way), and also sharing it, it isn't just a unique and beautiful opportunity to learn and get in contact with people sharing the same enthusiasm, it is also a real pleasure.

The idea of leaving something behind me that maybe one day will be useful for someone, to me is priceless.
That's why the instagram page, where I am trying to document every single step, from body, to wiring harness, to the other systems. (I am a very beginner of such things).
I don't understand the hashtags at all, they are a mistery to me: maybe I share a wonderful pic and I think, wow, and then the hashtags don't work and... I tell myself: who cares.
But it's a shame, all these *****, bottoms and hips suggested, but no visibility for limincella hips and bottom?!?

nothingbutgt3

did I understand it right?
Would it be a good idea to add a couple seam welding spots on these threaded profiles?

I saw I'll also need 2 spacers in order to mount the steering rack in its original same position.
I didn't understand the thing about the struts top mount...