Testdr

I fit 11.5 +37offset on my c4s rears on RS height, 295 tires no rubbing (slightly stretched). You should be able to fit 13s if you wanted.

ninjabones

Wow... your photos are giving me a deja vu experience. Definitely listen to bob with regard to the sequence of fitting the body panels. Even despite his close supervision, I botched the spacing on my front flares (fortunately, the few additional drill holes are now hidden under the flares).

The first cut is the hardest... but also liberating (no going back)



similar shot as yours with the new wider wheels







here's a photo of the spacer on the drop links.. and you can make out the brake ducts emerging from the frame rail





here's what we used to mount the ducts to the exit hole on the frame rail



here's the mouting plate that was fabricated to direct the duct on to the back of the hub.



Looking forward to watching your progress. Good luck!

Rialas

That's painful to watch.

Juha G

I cannot wait for the first cut...allthough it may cut my heart a little as well...
Thanks for all the info, the brake cooling looks very effective. I will follow your design.

Got some parts today. The used Turbo rear quarters and new turbo rocker panels. I tried the skirts on the rockers and to my surprise they don't go over the rockers (as my aerokit 1b skirts do) but under them!!! Dear god this car will be low!!!

I am confident now that the photos I have found online and received from FVD do not show these 14" flares and skirts. This kit is completely different from stock GT2 look. The flares are much wider and the skirts extend much lower. I like it! It will be something in between a silly wide/low RWB and stock GT2.





I am also working on the exhaust to get more sound (to hide the SC whine) and to still be able to drive on tracks with strict sound restrictions.
Muffler bypass pipes with electric cut-off valves will enable this. So I bought a pair of these which will go on my stock mufflers:

Washabi

you're really going all out, I'm glad to see that it is coming along rather quickly. Looking forward to the next update

Flying Finn

Ooooooo!

Just top amuse all the track rats here, tell us how much the season ticket to Ahvenisto track is (will make everyone cry)...

Juha G

A whopping... 230Eur...

Some update on the project, my bodyguy is working on a more urgent repair so we didn't start tearing my car yet. Will most likely start beginning of next week when he is finished with the other car. The aim is to get project completed by end of May, which is quickly closing in...

I made a decision about wheels and tires...the availability of WIDE 18" semi slick tires (streetable that is) is very limited. Hence I decided to ditch the semi slicks alltogether and will run next summer on used racing slicks and maybe a Hoosier R6s. I will be buying a used set of BBS racing E88's in 10,5x18 and 13x18" as well as will get new barrels for my Kinesis wheels to make them as wide as well. I already have a set of Michelin racing slicks and bought another two used setst in 27/65/18 and 30/65/18.

Some will say I will ruin my chassis, but if there is ever a problem with the chassis getting soft in the future, I will just tear everything apart, fix and strengthen as needed.

I made the wing brackets today, they didn't come out as good as I expected so version 2 will be in the making soon. I think the wing could be situated a little bit rearwards too. The height is good also in that sense that I can now see something from my rear view mirror...

bobt993

Juha,

Wing height should be at roof line for cleaner air. Remove the factory wind deflector from the glass (it disturbs the air a lot on it's way to the wing.). You will not need that much angle of attack. I also made the air intakes on the tailbase functional for cold air intake and it works great. Add a Gurney flap to the edge to increase the efficiency. I can send you pictures of the wing uprights we fabricated. They were done on CAD then had a CNC machine cut them out. Looking good.

Nickmysta

Juha,

What are your specific intentions wrt the bypass valves? Bypass mufflers altogether, or one kind of lpmm mod with cut offs?

Thanks

Nic

Juha G

Bob, any chance I could get the CAD file for the uprights?
I made version 2 uprights, they are much better now but not perfect.
The wing looks ridicilous on the narrow body...







The intention is to install a muffler by-pass pipe between then inlet and outlet on the muffler. Then add this cut-off valve on the bypass so I can control it with a push of a button.
I need to muffle the sound down on some local tracks.


So the project finally started, car is at my friends place and we already stripped down the easy bits. Next up is windows, front fenders and then we start cutting off the rear quarters.





The front end will need quite a bit of fabrication and re-routing etc. to make it work. The EVO bumber has the long ducts for the oil coolers, which means the crash bar needs to be trimmed shorter on both sides as well as the auxiliary oil cooler hoses re-routed (or perhaps even re-done with different shape banjo fittings). The AC cooler will go, no need for AC here in cold north, plus save some weight as well.







I also noticed that the rear side lights are different on the turbo, so need to get a pair of those. And there are some fittings for the rear bumper that are different too, I will see if the existing ones can be modified or if I have to get some new parts.
The tail pipes are about 20mm inwards too, so some modification to those are needed as well. Who said this was going to be easy...

bobt993

Juha, I will ask my buddy if he still has the file. BTW you have to fab new oil lines to the second cooler. I used BAT for the fittings and lines. They are a PITA and need to run high in the front bumper. I took the factory bracket as a template and fabricated a flat shelf. You need to completely remove the coolers and mount the front bumper first so you can see how little room there is to work with. The lines end up fitting towards the wheel on the inside and the coolers are sideways to fit in the EVO opening for the coolers.

Juha G

I agree that is best to remove the oil coolers and hoses, fit the bumper and then find the best places for the coolers and routes for the hoses. Any photos of your installations with the bumper removed??

Still tearing down...







And the front suspension surely is in the inner position as expected. I can't imagine living without rennlist and you guys!! I would have never know about the possibility to bring the hubs out (they didn't even know at FVD Germany when I asked about it):

Juha G

I couldn't find a photo showing the front axle geometry change street car-> race car. So I made this pic and had it verified by bob...
Just thought I'd display it here for the record, in case someone want's to do the same in the future and is looking for info:



In addition to the photo, I have to make spacers for the swaybar drop links and some minor modification around the firewall where the brake axle goes trough it.
Doesn't look too difficult. I will post some pics tomorrow after I'm done with it.

Flying Finn

Very interesting...

What gets done with the steering rack?

Also, you still have the huge washer fluid reservoir, I'd say it's time to get rid of that...

Juha G

No need to modify the steering rack Petu, there is enough adjustment in the tie rods to bring them out that 30mm.

Yeah, you can see the washer fluid reservoir in one of the photos. I probably should take it off as I never use it...