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Now that is a view few have ever seen a real Transformer. I see hands on hips and a comment like, What the hell are you gawking at? Let's get back to work!
It is a long way... Even with totally stripped interiors, there are so many small parts to collect, nuts, bolts, spacers, tubes, etc., that need to be one by one verified, eventually plated or more probably changed with new ones.
Next steps are going to be like a 30.000 pieces puzzle
Last edited by nothingbutgt3; 07-17-2020 at 08:42 AM.
Engine block is inside without signs of corrosion and outside with very small signs
this is a view on the worst corrosion point on the gearbox case
The craftsman at the grinder shop when I asked if the structure of the gearbox case could have been compromised has started smiling...like saying, no way
The mating surfaces are simply perfect, as much as the seats for the mechanical parts.
That is extensive corrosion on the transaxle although I agree being aluminum and not mag you are fine. Will you keep it raw aluminum or are you considering painting it to prevent any further corrosion?
That is extensive corrosion on the transaxle although I agree being aluminum and not mag you are fine. Will you keep it raw aluminum or are you considering painting it to prevent any further corrosion?
What would be the proper paint or chemical to use?
I have used it before with good results the color is not perfect but better than some of the other products which seem to be more golddish than aluminum looking. You can see my trans was painted but the engine case was not just vapor degreased.
That is extensive corrosion on the transaxle although I agree being aluminum and not mag you are fine. Will you keep it raw aluminum or are you considering painting it to prevent any further corrosion?
I was considering painting it with a trasparent layer (and also giving it some kind of bicomponent metal putty but I am not sure this would be a good idea, because oneside structurally talking it wouldn't have any effect, while otherside it might create tensions due to different thermal expansion coefficient).
For some reason the engine block has very superficial and very few points of corrosion, the gearbox case a bit more and in some point deeper (the worst part is the one in the posted picture)
The inner side of both engine and gearbox cases are corrosion free.
Probably the gearbox had more demage because it was not as much as the engine in electric contact with the magnesium of the fan housing, but this is maybe just a phantasy of mine.
I have used it before with good results the color is not perfect but better than some of the other products which seem to be more golddish than aluminum looking. You can see my trans was painted but the engine case was not just vapor degreased.
Nice! Very nice!
I was considering giving some kind of protecting layer to the magnesium chain tensioner boxes and covers (on the outer side), maybe some kind of matt black, and to the fan housing in same color, I know it is not original, do you have some product to suggest, resistant to high temperatures?
Also the engine and gearbox case it would be nice to grt them in some kind of gpfinish like the one of your gearbox, but painting it would mean preparing the surface using some kind of metallic proper putty.
The fact is I have no idea what product to use, nor the people working at the painting shop, because it isnt something a bodyshop encount so often (to say they probably never had such a request)
I am not even sure it would be a good idea, the car has a very clear and well known story, wouldnt it be strange to have a look under the car and see perfect shaped gearbox and engine case?!?
Both of them are matching number, so maybe it just be visible it has been in a river, despite the fact it is still in perfectly working conditions.
If I'll go for a step 2 engine and maybe also a step 2 gearbox, they will be perfect looking in their natural wapor blasted aluminium finish.
Probably this is the way to go.
I dont know what to do with the subframes structure...there is corrosion but I dont think it compromises the resistance of components, one day I think to use its original parts, the otherday to put on used ones in perfect conditions.
It sounds like a paradox, since the body is going to be shiny as brand new ... maybe leaving just the engine and gearbox with the signs or also other parts? Theoretically the other parts can be changed, just the engine and gearbox must have the same numbers, right?
so the answer seems to be easy, furthermore, considering the heavy loads of a track oriented car, mostly in monoball, with suffrage rigid mounts, maybe it is a no brainer and better go for used like new parts.
Honestly the gearbox and engine are superficial IMO. These are sealed to prevent leakage of oil so they kept the water out otherwise these parts would be toast. The structure is still there but the voids are just another place for moisture to get in and contaminants to reside that might create further damage. I don't see the need for filler although I doubt it will have any impact despite how much these engines grow under hard use. Maybe a clear on that might be best and it preserves the story. You could also change out the tail section of the trans and not impact the serial number making it look better. It is possible that the mag helped the engine case. They do use magnesium as Anodes in boilers and hot water heaters to take the brunt of the corrosion, but then again it could be the flow of the water and if one part was sitting in silt vs another and protected by the lack of oxygen. Think the René Dreyfus Bugatti
I would be more concerned about the suspension. If it has corrosion like the trans this could be a concern as it IMO could be a potential for stress risers that might fail under loads. The last thing you would want is a failed component that puts you back in the drink.
07-16-2020, 08:21 AM
