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Extremely frivolous question here, but has anyone found a way to add color to the little strip on the center of their Racetex steering wheel? See the picture below to see what I’m talking about. On GT3s this strip is colored to match the seatbelts/gauges/stitching. I’d like mine to be yellow, but am not going to spend the cost of recovering the whole wheel just for that pop of color. Hoping there is a dye or paint that can be used.
Thanks!
The strip in question is at the top of the wheel.
Step away for the steering wheel….. it’s too early for winter boredom!
Extremely frivolous question here, but has anyone found a way to add color to the little strip on the center of their Racetex steering wheel? See the picture below to see what I’m talking about. On GT3s this strip is colored to match the seatbelts/gauges/stitching. I’d like mine to be yellow, but am not going to spend the cost of recovering the whole wheel just for that pop of color. Hoping there is a dye or paint that can be used.
Thanks for the reminder. Interesting to watch. So, buyer paying $134,250 with buyers fee on white T….not surprising. Also, not sure if buyer will have additional costs for shipping to their location. I noticed the PG T seller just lifted the reserve feeling good about what the white one sold for. Curious where that one ends…
Looks like the Python green finished at $133,250, MSRP was $132,420, sold to the original buyer for 129,270. Interesting seeing the original buyer pay less than sticker.
Georgia tax to register was $8,775. I'm new to the game, why would someone buy it, blow $9k to drive it 230 miles?
Extremely frivolous question here, but has anyone found a way to add color to the little strip on the center of their Racetex steering wheel? See the picture below to see what I’m talking about. On GT3s this strip is colored to match the seatbelts/gauges/stitching. I’d like mine to be yellow, but am not going to spend the cost of recovering the whole wheel just for that pop of color. Hoping there is a dye or paint that can be used.
Looks like the Python green finished at $133,250, MSRP was $132,420, sold to the original buyer for 129,270. Interesting seeing the original buyer pay less than sticker.
Georgia tax to register was $8,775. I'm new to the game, why would someone buy it, blow $9k to drive it 230 miles?
You can't tell the future. He probably thought he would make a profit.
In the comments the seller said that he bought a GT3 from the dealership and they offered him a T as well. This car may have been a way for him to strengthen his dealer priority for the future.
If I recall you have a pretty nice 991 t with buckets. I would hold tight or at least custom order a new one if you have the itch.
I was thinking of bidding on that Python Green 992 T that sold today on pcarmarket, but at the ending bid it was more than 40% more expensive than what I have into my car - and I'd be losing the carbon seats.
Last edited by Multimodal; 11-13-2023 at 07:15 PM.
If I'm not mistaken the RAS is worth it's weight in performance alone (better lap times?). So factor in safety and convenience and it seems like a no brainer. Just give me a switch to turn it down/off like all the other stability/safety features. Thinking back on some of the high speed evasive maneuvers I have had to perform to avoid a crash easily makes the case for me. If the weight is really the thing, you could delete the A/C with no loss of performance or safety. I did it on my Evo for a few years, wouldn't recommend for a DD.
I thought we were speaking of “weights & measures” not what are its attributes?
Though I can agree with your assessment of RAS, I actually ordered it in mine. I do believe, and others will correct me if wrong the original T had deleted AC or radio but think they could be optioned in. But not as a safety option! 😁
Last edited by Shortseller; 11-10-2023 at 04:51 PM.
I thought we were speaking of “weights & measures” not what are its attributes?
Though I can agree with your assessment of RAS, I actually ordered it in mine. I do believe, and others will correct me if wrong the original T had deleted AC or radio but think they could be optioned in. But not as a safety option! 😁
I can understand where the "experience" people are coming from. In a world where you could just turn the system off though, what are you actually gaining from that weight loss?
Looks like the Python green finished at $133,250, MSRP was $132,420, sold to the original buyer for 129,270. Interesting seeing the original buyer pay less than sticker.
Georgia tax to register was $8,775. I'm new to the game, why would someone buy it, blow $9k to drive it 230 miles?
Yeah, that would not be me…but… Could be many reasons…..
1- Found the base stereo system unbearable, ha.
2- Needed quick cash to invest in something else like bitcoins (thinking it bottomed), ha. I do know someone that sold an expensive car immediately after purchase at slight loss because a great real estate inv. opportunity arose. Ha, I was the buyer.
3- Wife threatened him to get her garage space back. Seller makes reference to this.
4- Impulse buy regretting hit on budget subsequently, etc. Seller mentioned it was a bit of an impulse buy.
5- Dealer called with opportunity to buy GT3 with no ADM. yeah, wishful thinking. But maybe opportunity came up to buy something seller wanted much more than T at solid price.
6- Etc. Etc. Etc.
I can understand where the "experience" people are coming from. In a world where you could just turn the system off though, what are you actually gaining from that weight loss?
It’s actually the manual that gives the more single weight savings. The rest adds up but can be selectively Put back in without much penalty. I for one, went to the T because it gave me much more over the base, closer to the S, that would have in the end cost me much more if spec’d the same.
Rear steer, if anyone is worried more about feeling the weight vs feeling the impact it has on the driving, then they are imagining things. It definitely impacts the drive, not so much the weight factor. At least that’s what I’ve read. One would be better offf on a diet to help reduce sprung weight? 🧁
Last edited by Shortseller; 11-10-2023 at 06:17 PM.
1. Reduce road feel
Electric steering racks are more tactile and drive more road feel to the steering wheel than hydraulic racks, said no one ever. By introducing electric rear assisted steering, you are further reducing that tactile feel. Porsche has one of if not the best electronic steering racks in the businesses. It's as close as you're going to get to mimicking a hydraulic rack, even though it will never match it. By adding RAS, you are undoing some of the hard work Porsche engineers have done to give us more road feel.
2. Reduce 911 feel
Many of us who have been around 911s for a while, buy them in part because of the unique feel of the rear-engined car. That feel has been significantly dialed out in the 991 and 992 generations, making the cars easier for the average Joe to drive, thereby making them safer and more appealing to average drivers. Introducing electric rear assisted steering, further reduces that feeling. Some describe it as a "nervousness" while others describe it as "synthetic" on first impression. Not to worry as this is something that surely one normalizes to over time.
3. Add unsprung weight
It's understandable for people to dismiss the idea of adding 10 lbs here and 20 lbs to the build of their car. Arguments can range from "taking a gas tank from empty to full adds 100 lbs" to "you can't feel a 10 lb difference in a 3,500 lb car". I won't argue with that logic, because from a certain perspective, it is correct. That said, just as overweight people don't suddenly wake up 100 lbs heavier one day, it's easy to go from spec'ing the lightest Carrera available to "you may as well've bought a Targa" in a handful of options, including PDK, RAS, FAL, rear seats, sunroof, 18-way seats etc. I'm going by recollection here so someone correct me if I'm wrong but, RAS adds about 30lbs and that's after offsetting weight with the LW battery, meaning it actually weighs more. Furthermore, it is UNSPRUNG weight, which is equivalent to 4x static weight or, without taking the offset weight, 120 lbs of static weight equivalent. If you've never driven a light car or have played around with things like brakes, wheels, and tires, to discern what reducing unsprung weight does to a car, it makes it noticeably more tactile and responsive. It's the reason GT cars are widely spec'd with PCCBs and why people spend $20k on magnesium wheels.
4. Easier parking
It does make parking in tight spots easier.
5. Faster lap times
The reason RAS is standard in GT cars is singlehandedly because it helps achieve faster lap times. How? By steering in the same direction as the front wheels above 50mph. Doing so makes the car more agile in corners by helping the car transition faster and with less weight transfer.
Conclusion:
If you are useless at parking and/or if you are a track rat who for some reason chose a T over a GT3, RAS makes a lot of sense for you. However, if you know how to park and you don't plan on doing more than a handful of track days per year if at all, I'm not sure why anyone would check the box. This point was more time consuming to argue before the ST. All sorts of people would pull out charts and point to the fact that RAS is standard in GT cars to deduce that with RAS you're adding performance. Unfortunately, the devil is in the details. Well, now the father of the GT division created the ultimate road car which Walter Rohrl proceeded to call "the best road car I have driven in my life" and surprise, surprise, you can't even option RAS on it. Yes, RAS is great for very specific and narrow applications. For people like me, who bought the T because they want the lightest, most visceral, and tactile road car possible, RAS is a counter productive.
11-10-2023, 03:49 PM
