When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
It’s actually the manual that gives the more single weight savings. The rest adds up but can be selectively Put back in without much penalty.
This topic has been discussed numerous times throughout this thread. The biggest option affecting weight is transmission, yes. But if you spec the lightest T possible versus the heaviest T possible (and we have seen builds here that approximate both ends), the weight difference is rather notable, even after controlling for transmission. It may be worth scrolling through the thread to find the posts where other members have detailed this.
If the 9.5kg is correct (not sure if that's net of battery weight savings or not) It's 10.5 lbs per rear wheel. Because it's unsprung, it will have the feel of adding 80 lbs to the car. But as you may know, this is a very crude way to explain the effects of unsprung because removing unsprung weight will always feel significantly different from removing static weight, pound for pound. And yes, the wheels make a bigger difference. I'm contemplating buying magnesium wheels from Litespeed in GT3 sizing and they weigh 15/19 compared to the GT3 wheels which are 23/26 and the T's standard S wheels which are 25/29.
The 9.5Kg is incorrect or includes the battery. The actual RAS system weighs 15kg. I'm still a big fan of RAS in some cars. I had it on my 991.2GT3 and RS which were my track cars. I still have RAS in my 812SF which suits it due to the much longer wheelbase and the extra weight is less of an issue on it. It's great on track but for a purely simple road car with a short wheelbase like a 992T I prefer it without RAS.
Same goes for Manual transmission. Prefer PDK for track like my 4RS but much prefer Manual for a fun road use car.
Others will prefer their T with PDK and RAS which is great as we all like different things.
With reference to getting to the gym I have my own at home in my barn and work out regularly so not really relevant in my case. It might be a valid argument for many in the US and to be honest for most of the UK. !
You could never convince me a car has too tight of a turning radius. This honestly just sounds like a "It doesn't really need it" argument. Which is fine as long as we all agree nobody needs a 911 and we should all really be driving Miatas.
I have driven a 992 S with and without RAS in direct comparison. Not many here on the forum have done that. I also had RAS on my 992 4S and also on my 991.2 GT3. The GT3 has a complete different suspension setup so I always laugh when people use that car as a comparison. There is a reason RAS is standard on a GT3 and not on a T. That is the same reason RAS is an option on the T: depending on how you use it. Because it could favor some people who want it to feel and drive like a GT3 and use it more on track for fastest times. But some prefer more analogue feel for winding roads and don’t care about times. So I am not a hater of RAS but as long as it’s in the right car and combination and usage.
But when you drive the 2S with and without RAS you will feel a lot of what driving fun is not about in the RAS version: a very synthetic and elastic feel. If you are a purist, you want as much as a mechanical feel as possible. Like Wilder said the car steering is already electrical. No point in adding any more electrical support which is cutting of the mechanical feel even more.
I personally think RAS is terrible on a non GT3 or 4WD. The feeling it gives in corners is everything I don’t want my car to be doing. Let me handle the radius, not my car. It feels elastical. It’s pushing the rear in a non human way. Not anything remotely close to what I think is purist driving to me. For that same reason I also left out variable sport steering. I do think that one works way better though.
I would also like to point out: what is wrong with the standard steering feel of the 911 so that somebody would really have the urge to change it? Only 3 things: being faster on a track, having a shorter turning radius and wanting your car to feel more mid-engined. For the rest I would skip it.
I did not want to restart the RAS discussions. But I started a short text and see myself editing all the time and adding more and more haha. You can search this topic on my name and RAS for more personal views and explanations what I think of it. Also some examples for who RAS would be perfect and for who it’s better to leave it. I also mentioned in which corner speed RAS works good and at which speed it felt very bad. Because just to be clear: there are many for who RAS would indeed be good. And you do get used to the feeling. Even some don’t even notice it working.
Originally Posted by Mr. Maboomba
For those who moved from the 991.2 T to the 992 T: worth it?
Its depending on what is important. If you want a more analogue feel I would keep the old one. The new one is wider and has much more mechanical grip than the old one. It’s basically insane in gripping power. If you like that and you like more modern car and interior then go for it. If you love how your 991 T drives and handles and you like to play a bit more with the rear of the car I would advice you to keep the old one or try the new one out. As a whole package the 992 is a winner for me. There are some details however in driving characteristics that favor the old one for me.
I have driven a 992 S with and without RAS in direct comparison. Not many here on the forum have done that. I also had RAS on my 992 4S (and GT3). So I am not a hater of RAS in the right car and combination. But when you drive the 2S with and without RAS you will feel a lot of what driving fun is not about in the RAS version: a very synthetic and elastic feel. If you are a purist, you want as much as a mechanical feel as possible. Like Wilder said the car steering is already electrical. No point in adding any more electrical support which is cutting of the mechanical feel even more.
I personally think RAS is terrible on a non GT3 or 4WD. The feeling it gives in corners is everything I don’t want my car to be doing. Let me handle the radius, not my car. It feels elastical. It’s pushing the rear in a non human way. Not anything remotely close to what I think is purist driving to me. For that same reason I also left out variable sport steering. I do think that one works way better though.
I would also like to point out: what is wrong with the standard steering feel of the 911 so that somebody would really have the urge to change it? Only 3 things: being faster on a track, having a shorter turning radius and wanting your car to feel more mid-engined. For the rest I would skip it.
I did not want to restart the RAS discussions. You can search this topic on my name and RAS for more personal views and explanations what I think of it. Also some examples for who RAS would be perfect and for who it’s better to leave it. Because just to be clear: there are many for who RAS would indeed be good. And you do get used to the feeling. Even some don’t even notice it working.
Its depending on what is important. If you want a more analogue feel I would keep the old one. The new one is wider and has much more mechanical grip than the old one. It’s basically insane in gripping power. If you like that and you like more modern car and interior then go for it. If you love how your 991 T drives and handles and you like to play a bit more with the rear of the car I would advice you to keep the old one or try the new one out. As a whole package the 992 is a winner for me. There are some details however in driving characteristics that favor the old one for me.
Great analysis and much more eloquent than I could manage.
The 9.5Kg is incorrect or includes the battery. The actual RAS system weighs 15kg. I'm still a big fan of RAS in some cars. I had it on my 991.2GT3 and RS which were my track cars. I still have RAS in my 812SF which suits it due to the much longer wheelbase and the extra weight is less of an issue on it. It's great on track but for a purely simple road car with a short wheelbase like a 992T I prefer it without RAS.
Same goes for Manual transmission. Prefer PDK for track like my 4RS but much prefer Manual for a fun road use car.
Others will prefer their T with PDK and RAS which is great as we all like different things.
With reference to getting to the gym I have my own at home in my barn and work out regularly so not really relevant in my case. It might be a valid argument for many in the US and to be honest for most of the UK. !
So are you suggesting that the head of the Porsche GT division is incorrect? If you watch the YouTube video posted above at post #19901 Preuninger clearly states at 10 minutes and 16 seconds that RAS weights 6.5kg and the needed battery for it weights 3kg.
Another T completed build yesterday and at the port waiting for a boat to the UK.
@celestequattro Well done mine is waiting at Sheerness and hopefully will be in my hands two weeks from now, expect yours to be an extra week away?
What's your spec if you are willing to reveal ? Where are you based regionally/
Devon Racer.
BREAKING NEWS!
Limited edition Porsche 911 S/T, now being acclaimed as one of the greatest 911’s ever produced!
shhhhhh 🤫 whisper it …. doesn’t have RAS!!
@Taffy66@Macboy 100%. I'm not against RAS either. RAS and PDK for fastest lap times. Analog for road fun. The 992 is no 997. It's electrified and nannied enough. Don't remove the remaining fun you have available to you by adding RAS, PDK and weight adding options. Otherwise, you may as well buy a base or an S. Rear seats if you have kids, or PDK if you daily it in traffic, or 18 ways if you have back pain are understandable. Unfortunate but totally understandable. Ticking the box because you want more tech or comfort... on a T? Facepalm.
I haven't looked too deep into this, but it looks like deleting the RAS is as simple as swapping toe links. So I figure I'll street and then track the car with RAS, and If I don't like it in either context, I can swap it out when changing alignment. My guess is It will probably add 20 minutes worth of work (plus coding) to the job. If someone is more familiar with the system and wants to correct my assessment I'd appreciate it.
I would assume adding RAS to a car that didn't come with it will be exponentially more difficult to do.
If money is influencing your decision, I imagine you could sell the components and turn a profit.
Well, I was not even looking at this car but ended up buying it after driving it !!!
Had a few 2023 Porsche's earlier this year. A nicely spec'd coupe, then a zero option cabriolet followed by a gorgeous Panamera. None of them connected with me, and traded all back to the dealer.
What changed is this new car is a manual. All the others were PDK's. No offense to anyone who has the auto, but I just could not figure out why I found those cars a tad boring? I bought this car in Los Angeles. My first drive was basically surface streets and the freeway. However, the salesman asked if I wanted to take it out a second time and suggested I go up Topanga Canyon. Less than a half mile up the twisty road, I told him "I will take it!".
Not really a fan of used cars, but this was only 12K miles, super clean and highly optioned. Never thought I'd own a Yellow car, but was surprised how good it looked in person. Took it as a good sign that a couple of bees where humping the heck out of the roof :-)
Already Have some HRE wheels on order and contemplating an Akrapovic slip-on.
Last edited by PetePorscheSD; 11-11-2023 at 12:05 PM.