AlexZTuned

Curious about this as well as my C4 has FAL.

polobai

I have communicated with Tom on a dsc I recently purchased and he has been great when it comes to answering my questions! I actually just installed mine yesterday and had the same question with launch control as mine does not show the blinky lights when it’s enabled. Tom states that the 991 does not blink the lights like the 997 does but launch control does work. As far as I know there is no other indication that it’s working (it would be nice if there was-even if we could see via the datalog feature). So far the dsc seems to be working well but have to drive it more. for LNC activation for 991 because the stock LED on the

Tom@TPC Racing

Didn't around to answering your Q's on forum yesterday. I believed I answered 1 & 3, but not 2. Here are the answers for others and for future reference.

1. Driveline is control for dynamic engine mounts.

2. By selecting Vehicle Type 9x1 LNC it will show the Launch control settings. There's no difference which you select besides the LNC values.

3. If you already have the software and cable then just do it whether its needed or not. If you don't have an issue with FAL or headlight leveling and don't feel like the extra effort then skip it.

Tom@TPC Racing

991 LED on the button cannot be made to flash because of how its wired by the factory. If you really really really want to you could use Data Record function, activate LNC, and watch the Shock Current Out change from default value to whatever the LNC set value is. Personally I have not tried to record. I trust that it works like I trust the brakes to work on my car.

isugoo

Sorry for dumb question. Do we have a different instruction for launch control with DSC V3 compare to Porsche's standard procedure (Sport+, Traction off > Brake/acceletor floor all the way > let go)?

polobai

Yes, DSC carries its own launch control:

mic_crispy

@AdamSanta85
Finally got mine installed and wanted to share some initial impressions (with B16s):

I started with the latest 911 GT3 Touring file loaded, with the only edit being min default shock value in sport mode set up to 30%.
I found this close to as stiff as my OEM S-PASM controller (set to sport), with bumps and mid corner adjustments being far far "cleaner". Its actually a bit hard to articulate... but the best way to describe it is my dampers actually feel ACTIVE now, rather than static. Like its putting the sensors to work and there's far more logic between the inputs (Brake, throttle, speed, G's etc) and what the shocks are doing.

Still, I felt the initial(low speed) turn in and road feel in wasn't quite as sharp as the OEM S-PASM in sport, so i set the min default value to about 37%(1100 i believe is the value) and this seems to be the best (for me) in sport mode.
Very sharp turn in, a lot of feel and confidence at lower speeds and much more control over bumps at higher speeds than my stock controller.
For the record, i realize that STIFF doesnt equal speed and i could very likely go faster with the default touring file values.... but i just feel more confidant, esp at lower speeds with a stiffer setup.
Maybe i'm just a JDM tuner at heart.

I didn't touch the comfort mode as i wanted that to be as compliant as possible. With the OEM controller, the difference between comfort and sport shock settings was absolutely negligible, to the point where i wasn't even sure if it did anything at all.
Now, its VERY noticeable that the shocks have softened up and roads i would actively avoid and manageable now.

I have seen scattered reviews of users complaining that they feel their car is too soft with the DSC unit.. my guess would be these are users have S-PASM and are used(IE Prefer) to how it drives/feels in sport mode... so my suggestion would be to play with the Min Default values because once you dial that it, its a FAR better experience.

Overall, im really really happy with my purchase as my car now has 2 distinct modes, both better than their respective stock modes.
%100 recommend.

enzotcat

Good feedback. Did you use the GT3 Touring file that is on the DSC sport site, or did you actually download the installed file directly from the controller? I noticed - when I downloaded the file from the controller - that it is quite different from the touring file that was posted a couple of pages earlier on this thread. I've also got SPASM; right now I have the file on it that came with the controller. I can tell now that there is a difference between comfort and sport PASM settings, but it is still not very marked. I'm going to leave it as-is for my 1st track day and see where that gets me. I'm also going to take my laptop along with me to potentially alter things a little after a couple of track sessions. We'll see where it winds up, but I'm definitely excited about the adjustability more than anything else. I'm still on the fence about getting something like the B16 damptronic or the Tractive DDA setup. Right now I'm leaning towards the latter, but your experience with the B16s is going to be really interesting to document.

enzotcat

@Tom@TPC Racing I've been continuing to peruse the various settings for the DSC Sport controller (991.2 Carrera S), and have some more questions for you. As a precursor, what I have done is I have read the actual calibration file on my controller from the device itself, and am looking at those values.

1. The documentation in the help for the app mentions that the damper operating range for OEM dampers is "OEM dampers - 1500mA is full soft and 500mA is full stiff". When I look at the shock calibration table settings in sport mode, I see that the full stiff setting for LF and RF is 250mA, while for LR and RR it is 200mA, so it seems like everything from around 70% is < 500mA. So the question is - if the full stiff really is 500mA, why are the settings at 250mA/200mA, and does that mean that it's really already full stiff way before that full table is used?
2. Similarly, when I look at the settings in "Chassis Normal", the 0% calibration is at 1450mA and not 1500mA - why the deviation from the documentation? It's perfectly acceptable, btw, for the documentation to simply be inaccurate, but it would be nice to know this .
3. On the GForce tab, in the G Comfort Parameters settings, I see that the offset in both Chassis Normal and Chassis Sport is set to 30.0, but the documentation states "Offset - This is a calculated value and is always set to 100 on the new units". So, which is it - if the unit is the newest available (which I believe it is because I *just* got it), why is it set to 30 and not 100? Should this be updated?
4. On the "zero travel" story. Just how sensitive is it to a slightly sloping garage - in other words, if my garage slopes front-to-back maybe a degree or two, is that a bad thing and should I seek out a truly level piece of ground?

Thanks!

mic_crispy

I actually just edited the file that came off the DSC as I had purchased it about a week ago and assumed it was the latest version.
Honestly, the Tractive seems like the far superior setup, but double the cost.

isugoo

You guys are all too smart. My question is more like, how come I can't install the software or when is next sale...

Tom@TPC Racing

Max and Min is 500 and 1500. Since 2017 we have been setting Max at 200-ish to make the curve sharper. The Max value doesn't change but the area under the curve does. This makes the stock dampers and springs feel like having entry level coilovers. I have answered this same question dozens of times since 2017. Search is your friend.

While 1500 is the Min, the calibrator who wrote this file felt the Min is a little too soft so he stiffened it by 50. Personally I did not feel a difference but the calibrator himself seemed to... I think 50 is insignificant on OEM PASM dampers. Maybe he just had to make a tiny change to justify his job position. LOL

Your DSC must be a new unit from this year. The 2021 units have 30 Offset. I don't know what it does. I was told it is an internal engineering setting. I only know not to adjust this value. My assumption is this Offsets the entire scaling of the calibration. My guess is this box will probably be removed for the next user version since it is not meant to be adjusted by the user. Please keep in mind that the DSC software that we are all currently using is the raw engineer's version! It is a powerful tool. I feel fortunate to have access to this software and have fun using it.

Zero'ing the ride height sensors is not a requirement because the Velocity function is not relative to zero, its relative to the previous movement. But if you do go through the exercise of zero'ing the ride height sensors do it on a pretty flat slab of concrete. Doesn't have to perfect, just no ripples on the surface causing one side to drop/raise. I have also wrote about this dozens of times...

4 Point 0

Feedback from latest track day.

For those that aren’t big on reading, my car is a 991.2 GTS, highly modded. I have full Tractive Coilovers with 100/150 spring rates, and the latest DSC controller with Tom’s latest track map.

I made some other small adjustments. I maxed out the tractive top hats and I changed the Elephant racing control arms to the E-Motion shim adjustable ones. I now run -4 degrees front camber. I run 265/35/20 Goodyear eagle F1 Supersport RS on the front stock 9 inch GTS CL rim.

Rear is 305/30/20 Michelin Cup2-R.

GT3 front sway bar set in middle setting. Tarret rear sway bar on one off softest.

I run E42.5 mix and COBB custom tune. I won’t go into all the other mods.

All i can say is WOW. I absolutely love my car again. I have never had this amount of grip. I have never had what i considered good turn in. (Compared to many other track cars I drive, Ferrari SP and GT2-RS).

For the first time ever I was able to come in hot, and when it looked like i was going to miss the apex, I just turned in more and the car turned in more. I was gob smacked. Usually that sort of tom foolery would result in some serious understeer. Let me translate. With this nee setup, it basically means, I’m no longer driving the car fast enough. At PB times, it feels like I am driving calmly and smoothly on passenger laps.

The biggest improvement is turn in and lateral grip. Usually I get into some spectacular slides. I run a 10.8 at the drags. So my car has some power. But with this new controller, finally the suspension has over taken the power.

Which means, I am ready for more power. That’s always a good thing. I am considering Tial Turbos.

Back to the controller. Lateral grip and turn in are off the chart now. There is only one last adjustment that may or may not need to be done. Cornering the setup is perfect.
The only thing I don’t understand yet is the relationship between bounce and skip.

The car does not skip at all across bumps anymore. It no longer feels like it will suddenly step sideways when the rear hits a bump. But it bounces up and down and side to side. There is a flat out left kink at the track that i take pinned at 200km/hr. On the exit it is very bumpy. The car is dancing around. Whilst inertia is pushing you right, you need to get over to the left fast and then brake hard for the right hander. And you are dealing with a very bumpy surface. So there is a lot going on. It takes ***** to trust that the car will settle. I run full traction off. Traction control used to have a fit through there and lock a rear brake when you are pinned.

So question to Tom. Is it possible to reduce the bounciness through that section, without returning to a point where the car wants to skip and step sideways?
And without loosing the awesome lateral grip and epic turn in?

enzotcat

Thanks Tom. Yes my unit is a new one from 2021 - I have had it for less than a week. I did actually search for things, but did not find the answers that I was looking for - while search is one's friend, it's only as good as the engine underlying it, and it doesn't always return results in a cohesive manner. Anyway, thank you for the above - this is super useful and really points out why we shouldn't just go and modify the settings without really understanding them *and* understanding where they have actually deviated from the documentation and why they have deviated from that documentation. It also points out that it may well not be wise to take, for example, a previous file that was shared on this thread because it has things like the value of 100 for the offset, changes the lowest value of the min in sport settings from what is in the 2021 units and so on. It's far better to understand the current state of things *before* causing headaches associated with inadvertently loading a file that ultimately may wind up screwing things up.

4 Point 0

Exactly. You wonder why I am afraid to load another map. The new one I bought is so good, preloaded and not messed with, I will put up with soft mode being far too bouncy and just drive everywhere in track mode so as not to screw with the Track map. Its so good.